Henny

They're not that bad, but when something does go wrong, some of the parts can be pretty expensive... Fuel consumption is pretty good considering it IS a V6 of just under 3 litres! You've got to bear in mind that most of these are around 10 years old now, and will need some TLC to keep in top notch condition, which will mean some expense when things go wrong... 8) Yup, it was a cost option the same as on the VR6s... The later versions (93 onwards, or there abouts) had a slight face lift to the interior with different switches and a smoother more rounded look to the vents and other parts... I've yet to actually see a flat rear bench in the flesh, and I've no ideas which they were fitted to... I've never heard of a standard leather flat bench though... :? Yup nope, They're just stuck on with sitcky tape stuff... 8) Later cars came with an alarm immobiliser which is now classed as Cat2, a lot of the other cars were fitted with a straight alarm system from the dealers... Personally, I'd rip out any alarm that's been in more than 2 or 3 years and put a nice new one in instead! ;) Engine, gear ratios, slightly wider track front suspension and 5 stud wheels (instead of 4 stud on the G60) were pretty much the only differences until you got to the interior face lift versions which the G60 wasn't produced with... Every other option was available on both G60 and VR6 Send G-Man a personal message... G-werks is doing these conversions soon (if not now) and he'll know costs and the like... 8) Hope this all helps... 8)

Look at the headrest... if it's not got an emblem embossed into it, it's not a campaign interior... 8)

SPACE... ;) The 8V head has been around since 1980 (ish) and the cars that it was designed for didn't really have the space for the cross flow manifolds... :?

In a straight through (or Cross Flow) head the air goes in the front of the head, through the cylinders, gets burnt, and the exhaust gas then goes out the back of the head... 8) In a standard non-xflow 8V head, the inlet is above the exhaust so the gasses have to do a 180 degree turn during that cycle which slows the gas flow down and causes resistance thus sapping power... You also get the problem that the hot exhaust is directly under the inlet and will heat up the charge as it goes into the engine thus making it less dense and sapping some more power... :?

Change the front spoiler for a later 50mm one instead of the early 90mm one that your car should have on it... Keeps the looks you like and stops the rubbing on multi-stories... £30 from GPC 8) Also a lot easier to do than changing the suspension! ;)

Check the earth strap between the battery and the gearbox (it also bolts onto the chassis by the battery tray)... If this is all green and nasty, you won't be getting a proper earth connection which could screw things up enough to cause your problems... I'd also check the vacuum pipe which runs from the back of the throttle body and upto the ECU... this MUST be 100cm long else the ECU won't know what the hell is going on and your car will run like a dog...

8) That's EXACTLY the kinda info I was after... 8) Cheers Gazza... :D

Just read that document... Very enlightening.... 8) There's some really good comparisons and mental imagary used, I'd recommend that people read it... Thanks for posting that... 8)

ALL problems can be resolved with the careful and proper use of high explosives... :wink: :mrgreen:

you don't get a true reading from the one the ECU uses due to the ECU screwing about with it all the time... An independent lambda should give me a proper reading of what the exhaust gasses are comprised of, and therefor what the engine is actually doing, not what the ECU is upto... surely that's what an A/F gauge is for isn't it? Or am I barking up completely the wrong tree here? I'm confused... :?

Hi Guys, Here's an interesting one for you... On a G60 there's a pipe that runs from the exhaust manifold into the engine bay with a blanking plug on the end... It's there so that VW can test your emissions before they go through the cat... What I want to know is: Does anyone know any reason I can't take this pipe off completely and put a second Lambda sensor in there to run an Air/Fuel gauge from? I could even put in a wide band one then and get some nice readings rather than the fluctuating ones you get when tapping onto the ECU's Lambda... Anyone know? Cheers 8)

have another look at the wiring behind the head unit... there's often an inline fuse put behind there to protect the wiring in case the headunit goes faulty... 8)

IIRC a new box will take 2 litres of gear oil... if you change the oil, you're looking at about 1.5 to just under 2 litres as there will always be some oil left in the box which won't drain out easily... 8)

it tells the ECU what temp the coolant is at so that it can adjust the mixture into the cylinders correctly... Kinda important for correct fuelling... ;) The black one is identical (apart from the colour! ;) ) and is the sender for your water temp gauge... 8)

yeah, the nuts can be prone to seizing up and sometimes need some serious heat to get 'em to shift... this heat is normally provided via an oxy-acetelene torch which can melt the rubber parts of the track rod end resulting in needing a new one... :| The only thing that you should be wary of is that you are only supposed to adjust the tracking on one side of the Corrado. The other side is fixed for length at the factory and should not be adjusted! Saves you £30 'cos you won't need a track rod end on that side! ;) :lol:

to be honest, I'd completely forgotten about the blue sensor until task mentioned that it was disconnected... :oops: It's been so long since I had a running G60 engine, I'm starting to forget how they work! ;) :roll: :lol:

connect the blue sensor wire to the black sensor and see if this makes any difference... (your dashboard water temp gauge will stop working) If this cures it, then you're laughing 'cos the sensor is only a couple of quid and is a doddle to fit... 8) If you do change it, change 'em both (blue one and black one), and don't forget to make sure you use new seals! ;) The lambda sensor is in the exhaust, normally in the top of the cat... if you're having problems with the blue sensor, then the lambda may well be OK... 8) Oh, and the waterpump on a G60 is always running while the engine is running as it's mechanical and is driven by the same belt as the Supercharger and alternator... ;)

or search for "switch blade" and you'll find the mod... 8)

boot switch is standard fit so doesn't turn on the normal interior light... Probably still be worth checking though... 8)

http://www.gpcvwaudi.com do 'em... 8) The 50mm ones are cheaper than the 90mm ones too, ignore the prices on the website, they're wrong! :roll:

Nope, you're spot on there... 8) However, when the lambda goes, you're running rich all the time so there's excess fuel in the cylinders when you turn the car off as well as lots of carbon deposits from the unburnt fuel. This then gets blown out the back as a cloud of black smoke when you next start the car... :?

Nice cars... 8) Welcome to the forum... :D

Check your bonnet switch... I'd bet that it's either snapped or gone faulty and has been wired onto the door switches for the alarm... :roll:

the sunroof rattle is caused by either a missing or broken arm on the mechanism... These arms lift the interior part of the roof up when you tilt it and are part of the week design of the Corrado roof... :| :roll: I don't think that there is a lot you can do to cure it... :(

I'll post 'em up when I get home if no-one has beaten me too it... 8)