Henny

Could be a dodgy ignition switch causing hassles... They've been known to make all sorts of weird things happen when they're failing... :? :shock: For the £12 they cost and less than an hour on your back swearing, it's worth doing it just for the peace of mind... 8)

Sounds like you've done yours then! :lol: :lol:

AFAIK you do have to modify the subframe, but some tuning places do a custom subframe that will save you a lot of headaches. I think that C&R do one and I also don't remember it being horrendously expensive either... 8) Also, mind that you don't wear out your ! button. :lol:

Sounds like you've a leak in your central locking pipework which is causing the pump to fire for the extra minute or two when you lock it... I don't think that the C/L would cause your flat battery, that's more likely to be a light somewhere that's been knocked on or similar... Check your glove box light (althought this should only work with the ignition on) and the boot light as these are not visible from outside the car and if left on for 24hours will flatten a battery, could also be the standard dodgy earth wire from the battery to the gearbox which will cause most of the problems you mention with the flat battery (although not the C/L problem! :lol: )

Is this DB Car trim in Blackpool? If it is then they're pretty good! Dave's a nice guy but tends to be a bit crap at replying to emails and answering the phone! The Beetle specialists I used to work at used him for all of their carpets, headlinings and seat covers and his stuff was always spot on. His prices aren't bad, they're not the cheapest, but he tends to be good value for money. 8) The way I look at it is that I've known of (and used!) his place for at least 12 years and he was running the business way before that, so he's definately not some fly-by-night rip-off specialist! :lol:

As already said, Front one is easy, gearbox one is a little more tricky to get at if you've got ABS, but is still do-able with a trolleyjack and axle stands (it's probably a swine on a VR, but I've not done one of them!) and the left had rear engine mount looks like it'll be tricky to get at too... I'm doing mine while the engine's out! :D

I'd say that your best bet would be to get the car tested on a VAG-COM system to find out what error codes are being generated... That'll tell you for definate if it's a dead ECU (you'll not be able to talk to it!) or something else that you'd not know about otherwise... I don't know anyone in Ireland that's got a VAG-COM, but some of the Irish guys here may... Hope you get it fixed soon! 8)

Right, I finally got some time to start work on J-Dub so, as promised, photo stripdown time! :D I've not just been sat on my bum doing nothing since the crank bolt sheared off... Before I could even start to work on J-Dub I've had to knock the back wall of my garage down, design and build some new garage doors and rewire my house putting in an armoured cable to the garage so I've now got power in there... All this 'cos of a £2 bolt! :roll: :? :lol:

It depends on which heat shield is rattling... There's a lower one where the 2 downpipes become one that you just get the biggest jubilee you can over it and clamp it tight to stop the rattle. (that's the one I've done) I think it's about an 80mm clip you need, but it's a while since I did mine... There's also a shield on the actual manifold that I've been told you can clamp to the down pipe with a clip, although I've never had to do this one, so I don't know... I'm removing my engine tomorrow (see member's gallery "Henny's J-Dub) which I'll update in a minute!) so I'll have a quick look at the jubilee while I'm taking the downpipe off the manifold in the morning and post back up here about it, maybe even with a picture! :lol: 8)

yup, been having the same sort of thoughts about the Driver... Although the 'rado was supposed to be my daily driver while I did my MKI 16V up, so I'm now upto 3 cars with only one of them working! :? Ah, but it's all fun I suppose... :lol: 8)

Heat shield rattles can be cured with a BIG jubilee clip being put over it to clamp it to the downpipe... :D 8) (works on mine!) Your idle problems do sound like ISV problems, do a search for ISV here, and you'll probably find the answers to your problem. Manuals for 'rados DO exist, but they are expensive. The Bently manual is the best, other than that you're looking for Genuine Workshop manuals which go for silly money... I've got a Passat and MKII and MKIII Golf Haynes manuals which tell you pretty much everything you need to know apart from some G60 bits and the wiring... Even then you can normally guess as VW tend to use similar looms in their related cars! 8) It's a bit of a faff, but I get there in the end! :lol: Good luck, you've started well as this is the best place to ask things like this! 8) :D

I got myself a little 1.6 golf driver for while I'm rebuilding my G60... I agree that it's quite a nice change to just dump the car in a car park and not give a damn about parking dents etc... The extra fuel economy's nice too :lol: I miss the 'rado something chronic though, especially 'cos she's in my back garden and I have to walk past her every morning to get to the golf... :( Ah, she'll be better soon... MUCH better! :lol:

I tend to agree, mate. 8) The badge on the last one looks NOTHING like a VW emblem and is totally the wrong shape... :shock: However, the last but one pic shows me that I wasn't a million miles off with my comparison of a 'shopped 'rado to a Delorian in a different thread! (look at it without looking at the right hand side of the photo!) :?

Just out of interest, has anyone tried masking the lights before spraying them? :?: If you put thin (about 3mm IIRC) strips of tape over the bits of the indicator that let the light out (not the reflective bit... You'll see what I mean if you look closely) and then spray them, then when it's all dry take off the tape, you'll be left with a slightly stripey red/orange effect that should look red normally, but shine amber when lit... 8) I have no idea if this will work or not, it's just an idea that popped into my head after reading this thread and seeing a thread earlier about putting black tape over the reflective bits to make the lights seem darkened without loosing light intensity... :? I must also point out that I've just stumbled back from the pub 'cos I'm now on holiday for 10 days! :lol:

Andi made a thread somewhere on here with templates so you can make your own dial faces... Have a quick search and simply print yourself some dials! :D 8)

Isopropyl Alcohol should not dissolve standard car paints. It may dull the finish slightly, but this will polish off... :) 8) (guess who uses IPA lots?!? :lol: )

I've got mine coming out of the grill in the middle of the dash near the screen. I've run it through the dash and onto the ignition live of the stereo so that the detector is only on when the car is running... :D 8) (hence my old thread asking what the grill was for! :roll: :lol: ) It means that I've got a 2.5" bit of wire on the top of the dash when I've not got the detector in the car, but it's so much neater than running it up the dash front... 8)

From the photo it's difficult to see how many wires the coil has got going in/coming out of it. If it's got 4 it's a transformer, if it's only got 2 it's just a coil that's being used as a cheap low pass filter and shouldn't be causing any problems... Main answer is to count the wires... 1in + 1out it's a coil that's being used as a filter, 2in + 2 out it's a transformer and probably should be removed. 8)

That'll be a two post lift then... :roll: :lol: Normal ramps are 4 post ramps (one in each corner!) My mate's garage has sunk their ramps into the floor so there's no problems with getting any cars onto the ramps... I wonder why more garages don't do that? :?

If you're changing the rear disks it makes sense to change the bearings as well 'cos you'll probably knacker the old bearings trying to remove them from the old disks... For the price of them you'll have the peace of mind that they'll not go again for a long while! :D The only thing to make sure is that you check the tightness of the hub nut after a week or so of driving as the grease that you pack the bearing in with will have moved and made the bearing become slightly loose. :? It's a pretty easy job though... 8)

Ok, I'll give you that... It does look very nice with that grill colour coded... I didn't think it would. hey ho, wrong again :roll: :lol:

Proves what a nice looking bumper that is when I can spot the make from a photo! :roll: :lol: What's the name of it (r-rs or something else?) I think it looks really good anyway... 8)

Porsche 924 = reshelled Audi 80... Check out most of the running gear/engines/switchgear/locks etc,etc,etc and you'll see what I mean... The scarey thing is, that's the platform the MKI Golf was based on too! :shock: Oh, apart from the 924S and 924turbo which were 944s in slightly different shells! :? :lol: IIRC VAG owns a fairly substantial chunk of the shares of Porsche, and as pointed out before, Dr. Ferdinand has a lot to do with both companies relationships! :lol: Think of them as very close cousins... (yup, deep south USA close! :wink: ) and you're probably about right! :lol:

Who makes the front bumper, and is it fibreglass(GRP) or plastic (ABS)? I'm hoping that you're not going to say that it's the rieger one that's only the bottom half glued onto the original top half as that's the one I keep picking out in photos! :roll: :lol:

Not my taste at all, but it looks like it's all been done well and not bodged... If it's what you want your car to be like, then good for you... A job well done. 8) Tollerance is an area of behavior that most people still have lots to learn in... Good answer, lilapowerg60