Rams

Have you been before? Watch out for those on/off cambers, might be worth doing a brake balance check if one of these places off it for free? Do you have to wear a helmet? No pun intended lol

Is it just the headlight loom wiring or does it trace back to the headlight switch? You could get another loom I'm sure and whilst there check the headlight switch, pop to out and see if the wiring is ok as these have a habit of getting hot and melting. Also good time to upgrade the wiring loom as many have done, makes them much brighter and more efficient pulling the power. Don't think you need to walk away from this issue matey, I'm sure some others can help you with parts. If you can give us some more info on where the wiring is burnt out we can help you further. There's also a yellow resistor for the headlights and sometimes if the car has had an upgraded loom people forget to disconnect it or remove the resistor and that can cause problems. Rams

Lol, I will get over it! Is 16 or so psi too much? What weakens as a result of too much boost? Pistons/rings? Most say 350 bhpish the engine can handle with the mods I've done so can I look at it that way or does it not work out like that? Also, I have an adjustable boost re circ valve. I did ask Vince at the time if he needs to adjust it and I didn't really cover this part long enough with him but he said 'it was set up for Bobbys car the right way' but his engine/mods were different. Does the adjustment dictate when to start boosting? Pressure of boost? Can anyone elaborate on this kit? There's an adjustable spring or control with it, I can put the link up of what I've for if that's easier? Also maybe a question for Bruce at Devils Own but we haven't adjusted the Meth controller, set as it was received and mapped to my engine. Is one adjustment for more meth and the other to progressively adjust how much is sprayed in? Sorry for all the questions spanning off the pulley but somewhat related. Power is knowledge and all that....

Looks extremely clean! Never been to the Ring but hope you have a great time. Videos a must!!

I've changed the auxiliary water pump just now, also found that there are 2 rubber brackets with lugs through them, the top rubbers were fine but the bottom one- the lugs had been damaged so didn't connect into the bracket and possibly engine movement etc has caused it to leak but the seal was definitely worn on the pump itself. So I've just tried to order a new holder as the part number was on it. Nice simple job, undo the lead holders and removed 3 leads from the coil pack, enough room to slide the cover out and lost no water or coolant and replaced with new. Also had a look at the thermostat housing cover and worked out how to fit it, see pic. Part number is 357 972 279 cap. Now I've worked out how to do it on the spare housing I've got at home I can now go back to the car and fit it. Thanks to Owen for helping me install the headlight loom, as soon as he got there he said, right as your car has the loom upgraded already we need to return the wiring back to factory which he re connected the couple of wires originally spliced back into the connectors and finally I could get rid of the nasty loom as it was wired over the radiator and looked such a mess. This now all fits nicely and I removed the grill and headlights so all wiring is not noticeable and tucked the relays into the battery material cover which I only recently fitted back to the battery. Last night was great as once I hit the dipped beam I could see! My old loom just upgraded the headlights but not the dipped beam so when you needed extra light and flick the stalk it was worse, now its great. Nice bit of kit from Kurzy. All using the factory connectors.

I'm ashamed to say! ---------- Post added at 12:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:18 PM ---------- 3 series bm, couldn't catch the engine detail but assume 330 - I've raced them previously but before the rado was charged and had no problems. It wasn't a fair comparison last night but I just felt I should have caught him quicker than I did.

I had a bit of a play last night and went home feeling a bit gutted! Put it that way! I went past him and waited for him to react and tried not paying too much attention to the rear view mirror so he wasn't thinking I wanted to race and before I knew it he had planted it and I was literally about to take my exit and thought I will give it ago and planted 4th and couldn't catch him! It was silly really as I backed off once thousands of stones sprayed my car and I was clutching thinking MY PAINT WORK! But Yes John, I need more power!

Been thinking to replace my 90 mm pulley with an 80mm one. Is this dangerous to consider on my stock engine externals? Have spacer and ARP's installed to rods and head. Running .8 nearly 0.9 bar of boost which Im told is quite high but the engine sounds and feels strong and contemplating using my smaller pulley for more boost. Would I need a re map or should I just wait to build the other engine info a proper forge engine built to last kind of setup and then run the smaller pulley? What sort of boost difference would it be? I think my 90mm is 0.9 bar which is about 12 psi, would an 80mm pulley be around 16/18psi? Cheers Rams

I will be in-touch, sounds interesting

Just to echo Craig's post, my car had to have 2 mapping sessions due to a fault with my MAF and he got to 310 BHP without the meth connected. Then returned with new maf and we powered up the meth kit and then re mapped/set up fuelling etc and reached 332.4 bhp so it made a nice improvement on performance. Rams

It's a late one, from my 95 VR. Rubber type. Postage will need a biggish box to keep it flat... What would you be happy to pay? ---------- Post added at 6:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:13 PM ---------- Ten of your finest, delivery a few quid

ECU and MAF posted out today. Chrome rocker cover and matching gasket available. I may even re polish it if I get board, just needs some wet and dry/autosol as all the work sanding and polishing has been done previously. Calliper carriers not sure what they fit but part number is listed.

Dragon, do you need the inlet pipe as pictured or do you just need the small pipe coming off it to the PVC valve? I have both as the one pictured earlier in the add was a damaged inlet but the pipe coming off it was fine but pictured that one as they look the same and it was closest to me whilst i had my camera but this is the good inlet. Basically I can sell you just the pipe work instead of the inlet and I can sell the inlet separately. Cheers Rams

Based here, I had never heard of them either but my welder speaks highly of them but said they are not cheap. He knows some people that had work done there.

That sounds neat, where and how you find these things I will never know! Plus I'm learning what the system does when braking which I didn't even think needed consideration. So thanks for that. I'm still confused with Syncro and Rallye difference. Are they the same thing using a different boot pan? Then I need to mount the haldex to the rear beam and mounts are made to support the diff. I believe there are 3 mounts, 1 either side and one near the middle and saw that one of the guys made a sub frame bar to mount the middle one on the top. The Rallye uses a viscous coupling to drive the rear axel? Is that correct? What are the main differences between syncro and Rallye please? Does the syncro use a different prop and transfer box? If I go with the sqs valve, do I need sensors at all? Or does this work in conjunction with the sensors? How would it know to deactivate the diff when braking? Assume it links electrically to the brake pedal switch or is this a hydraulic change? Kind of thinking out loud as typing? Wondering if Barbs would notice if I stole the haldex off her TT? I did consider buying it as she wants a new car which she's been offered silly figures for as part X. When I looked underneath last time it was on the ramps and I did wonder if more was compatible? She gave me the evils as I said you don't need awd and then looked at my car lol

Got another gasket if you need?

MAF now sold ---------- Post added at 10:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:01 PM ---------- Oil pressure switch £3 plus delivery fully working order

Jolly good, you can tell its quite new, will you paint it or protect it before you install it?

I had a good read through coxys and phats threads and seemed to end on the amount of camber required. This is exactly what I'm trying to do, find out if I can get it done to a high standard as it would be a shame to spoil it. Info gathering now and noticed a few companies offering the conversion and HR have come highly recommended. The last one they did was approx £2200/£2300 and customer supplied everything they needed. Even if by the end of this I'm persuaded to keep it FWD then great but I like to know what I've got to aim for next. It's always been about the Corrado for me... Even after all these years, 10 years a forum member, you'd think I would have learnt my lesson by now! Lol you go way back too! ---------- Post added at 7:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:32 PM ---------- I think its still for sale, £1600 with the cage... Have you seen their workshop or heard much about them? Running syncro setup ---------- Post added at 7:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:02 PM ---------- Might be a good excuse to attend the rolling day if I can test out the traction control, I will give him a ring this week. Ta

Here's a pic of mine

It does look longer than ours, but sometimes you can't tell from pictures. I did think that when I first saw the picture but then thought maybe its just the picture and ours had a different casing?

Good day sir, I am having traction issues, not majorly but I will be putting a different engine in later and reducing the pulley on the charger and there's no point getting more power in my opinion with my front wheel drive setup. More because i want to increase the drive ability in and out of the corners. I did consider the LSD, I have access to a Quaife gearbox now but some people told me they are not great. So I started looking at Wavetrac and racelogic and costing it up and thought maybe awd is a better jump. I have a use of an Audi TT Quattro and sometimes when I want to nip to the shops I use it and enjoy the way it pulls your round and you almost feel more comfortable in the seat feeding it in and out of the corner. I don't enjoy the car or the engine but just the feeling of the awd. Is it a headache to have the sensors working would you know? Lots of wiring? I could always ask the engineering team if its something they could do? Is the Passat /Golf syncro floor a better option?

Ecu now sold and sump. Have found another sump gasket if anyone needs one. Good condition

Craig, have you considered going along the lines of an inter cooler?

Great piece of kit, they go to approx 600 plus HP so if your running 300 BHP or something its not even stressed, so if you plan bigger power mods it's more than capable. Mine achieved 332.4 BHP, transforms the car and sounds fantastic. Prepare the engine and put a smaller pulley in and increase boost! I met a chap at Stanford Hall, think his name was John but I talked him into getting one and he said does Vince know about these things and replied, 'sure does'. His car was a Storm, green and ultra low mileage. So if anyone knows his forum name, I'm sure he would like to know a brand new one is up for grabs.