Banana Man

:D No worries

No probs Tom!

Just changed another cv joint and thought while I was at it I would do a how to for the knowledge base. First off you need to get the tools out for the job You will need: * Trolley jack * Axle stands * wheel chock * Breaker bar ( for undoing hub nut) * a nice long piece of steel tubing (to put over breaker bar if you cant get enough leverage to undo the nut it's bl**dy tight) * Torque wrench * 30mm socket ( for hub nut) * 13mm socket (for ball joint bolts * 17mm socket for wheel bolts * Reversable wrench * Extension bar for torque wrench * Extension bar for reversable wrench * Wooden/rubber mallet (to get the old cv joint off driveshaft) * Side cutters/pliers (to remove old cv boot cable ties/clips) * New cv joint ( if new hub nut isn't included you will need a new one of these as well) * 2 Cable ties or clips for new cv boot How to install: 1) First off you will need to put the handbrake on tight and put the wheel chock in front of the rear tyre so that the car doesn't move when undoing the hub nut 2) Get your breaker bar, 30mm socket, and piece of steel tubing ( if neccesary). Get the socket over the hub nut and attatch the breaker bar so that it is at about 3 o'clock or 90 degrees so that you have a decent amount of leverage, and pull up with all your might ( the hub nut is done upto about 195 lb/ft so its going to be tight) If you dont have enough leverage get the long length of steel tubing over the breaker bar and that should give you enough leverage, at this stage you only want to get the hub nut to move not undo it completely. 3) once the hub nut is loosened, loosen the wheel bolts and jack up the side of the car making sure you secure it with axle stands ( we dont want any accidents now do we :roll: ) Once that is done we can now remove the wheel bolts and take the wheel off. 4) Now that the wheel is off, the next step is to undo the hub nut completely. Pick up your reversable ratchet, extension bar and 13mm socket, get your head underneath the hub and you will see the 3 13mm headed bolts that hold the balljoint to the wishbone , undo these and hub can be pulled away from it, with a little persuasion the cv joint shaft can be pulled out of hub now and pulled to one side. 5} Get your side cutters or pliers and cut the outer clip that holds the cv boot onto the casing of the cv joint and pull the boot back so that you can see the back of the cv joint. Tilt the cv joint so that it's pointing downwards and give the back of the cv joint a few taps with the rubber mallet or wooden mallet untill it will slide off, you will now see 2 washers the first to come off is the thrust washer and then behind it is the concave washer that butts upto the driveshaft flange ( if you haven't bought new ones put to one side and keep safe taking note of which way they came off) 6) now you can cut the other old cv boot clip and slide the boot off of the shaft. 7) Get your new cv boot and slide it onto the shaft making sure that the small hole end of the boot slides past the ribbed section of the driveshaft. Now you can slide the new or old concave washer and thrust washer back onto the driveshaft in the correct order and slide on the new cv joint. 8) Grease up the back of the cv joint and put some in the boot as well so that it is well greased and pull the cv boot onto the new cv joint so that it sits in the groove. You can now get your cable ties or cv clips and tighten them at both ends of the cv boot making sure they are tight as it will throw lots of grease around under your car if it pops of at 70mph :cry: 9) You are now ready to put the new cv shaft back into the hub so with one hand grab the drive shaft and with the other grab the suspension shock, pull the shock towards you so that you can move the cv joint behind the hub, line it up and gently push the hub onto the shaft if it doesn't want to go turn the brake disc a little so that the cv joint moves with the brake disc as you are doing this also try and get the balljoint plate to line up with the gap in the wishbone so it can slide back into position. 10) Once the balljoint plate is into postion you can now re install the 3 bolts and do them upto 25nm 11) get the new hub nut and washer and start to screw it onto the cv shaft at this point just do it up as tight as you can before the driveshaft starts to turn. When that is done put the wheel back on and put the wheel bolts back in and do them up as much as you can. 12) Jack the car up so that you can remove the axle stands and lower the car back down to the ground. 13) get your torque wrench and 30mm socket and set it to 195lb/ft and tighten till the torque wrench clicks out. Now tighten the wheel bolts up properly ( I usually torque them upto 90 or 100nm) 14) Now take your car to get the geometry set up as it will be out now. Thats it job done!!! :D It took me about half an hour as I have done quite a few cv's in the past but should take around 1 1/2 hours for someone that has never done it before! |Hope this helps

I know it's a effing pain in the arse!! they took my bloody numberplzate as well thats another £15 down the drain just as well I have a new set waiting to go on :)

fair enough :)

Aye that you did sir, I tested the earth leads to the head which you had suspicions about but they tested fine then I went onto the leads from the ecu to neg batt terminal they tested ok and then tested the earth strap from batt terminal to back of battery and then onto gearbox and there was a little more resistance than I liked so just bought a pair of new ones and hey presto problem solved!!

Looking good :D Have I gone boss eyed or is your rear numberplate a bit on the piss? it looks a bit higher on the right to me!!

ah cool didn't realise gpc did them, might have to get on the phone to them tomorrow to find out if they have any stock. cheers steve

I ve finally fixed the problem today bit of an odd one really it was the main earth from the battery to the gearbox bracket that was the culprit which I found a bit starange as it was an intermitant fault but I spoke to a few mechanics today and they all said it would definately be an earthing problem somewhere, so I just changed that and there was an instant improvement :D Got a new problem now some f*cker has swiped my rear numberplate recess along with the numberplate, f*ck knows why because they broke it leaving me with just the bottom bit that curves round the bottom of the bootlid as it was shut :roll: I tried to get a new one but ECP are out of stock and the dealers are really expensive, so on the look out for a smooth recess now but cant find any suppliers for them. Been a shite week really!!!!!!! :roll:

Hiya folks! Since I ve changed my alternator I ve had a really annoying problem, vacuum pressure drops to 2hg's at idle ( should be 15-17hg's) as if theres a vacuum leak somewhere and the car stalls out and wont idle, it makes driving it almost impossible as it stalls at junctions and so forth quite embarrasing really!!! The car is absolutely fine when accelerating on boost, it only happens when it's at idle and slight acceleration. I ve changed the vacuum lines ( ecu, fpr) I've tried another ecu on it and also changed the fpr and isv the only things on the vacuum system I haven't changed is the pipe from inlet to servo and the servo itself. It's also intermitant as one day its fine and then the next thing I know it's acting up again :roll: Has anyone else encountered this one??

Try the expansion cap first if it doesn't seal properly the system wont pressurized and it will just boil out of the overflow. Other than that it probably is HG

You spray it in airbox side just take off the airbox pipe and start the engine making sure no crud gets in there, start the car up and spray the PTFE for a second or 2, turn off the engine and rig up the airbox again. Job done for a month or 2 :) 8)

It is a boost return mod, as in it stops the boost returning to the charger! :D The blanking plate fits onto the charger on the opposite side to where the airbox pipe goes in, you have to take the plastic pipe that comes out of the bottom of throttle bodie and runs to the other inlet on the charger, removing the oil breather pipe from the rocker cover to plastic pipe and also the pipe from the isv to boost return pipe. Once thats done you can fit the blanking plate over the inlet of the charger and fix a breather filter onto the isv. quite a few people run a catch can from the oil breather on the rocker cover which you can locate anywhere you like. The charger will run alot cooler after the mod as it's not sucking hot boosted air anymore! I add some PTFE spray grease every couple of months to keep it lubed up as it doesn't get any lubrication from the oil mist in the boost return from the oil breather any longer. Hope this helps ya

Does your oil pressure warning light come on and the buzzer go off at all? When you switch the engine on does the oil warning light go out pretty quickly?

The little end bearings are on top of the conrod which has a gudgeon pin that goes through it to join the conrod to the piston. If it is them that are shot it's an engine out jobbie ( expensive and time consuming) and your best bet would be to source yourself another bottom as the KR bottom ends are very easy to get hold of and cheap.

That doesn't sound like tappets to me!! that sounds nasty I think Henny could be right with little end bearings it sounds like ity's firing on all four cylinders though so doubt it's a plug thats broken!!! I would get the oil pressure tested before you drive the car anywhere!!! :(

mmmmm tasty thats taken the presidential position on my desktop and reducing Keira Knightley's position back to just being in a folder somewhere on my hard drive :D

Oooops didn't read the question correctly I read it as being with the ignition on!!! :oops:

You need to disconnect the dim dip resistor coil it's the orange or in some case white plug in front of the battery it will have 2 yellow wires coming out of it 1 with a black trace and it leads to the resistor coil attactched to the inner wing just behind the N/S headlight ( you cant miss it) hope that helps benji as for the wires I would tape them up with electrical tape to avoid them getting corroded by the damp stuff!! :)

It sounds a little more serious than just bushes now as there is alot of shaft play which would indicate bearings as well still £80 aint too bad so all is well!!! Haha to steve yeah I ve got a spare one of the plastic gaurds as well now!!! Couldn't believe my luck when that thing hit my bonnet wasn't exepecting that at all!!

I'm afraid it is steve!! The G60 alt is differwent from the 16v and the 8v golfs as it doesn't have an adjustable belt tensioning bolt because it is all done on the sprung tensioner. You should be fine with the '90 16v alternator as it will be from a KR engine just your your j reg '91 KR rado

Another thumbs up from a nugget yellow owner :D At least theres a few of us about still :) I think there are loads more nugget G60's left than that but there aren't that many left compared to other more common colours like aqua blue and so fourth. Nuggets still the best colour imo you certainly get noticed in it :D

Cheers guys I ve just ordered one from my local stealer as they happened to be cheaper than GSF and my local motor factors that I used to work at. It should have been £95+vat from the stealers as stated above but they gave me a stonking discount and it is only going to cost me £80 all in iso more than happy with that :D

I now know you can drive approximately 40 miles without an alternator :roll: Luckily I had just got off of the motorway when the battery died and the car concked out due to the alternator packing up ( it now makes some interesting noises!!) Anyway my real point in posting this is because I need to know the part number for it, as mine is painted and I cant get any numbers off of it, etka isn't very clear on which is which so if anyone could have a quick squiz at theres or if you already know the bosch number could you post it up for me as I will get onto trying to get one tomorrow as I need the car back asap. Thanks in advance!! Ant

Heres the exploded diagram off etka for ya