Crasher

NO, why?

It's the same pulley for both versions.

Used KR's are ten a penny but a VEGE exchange unit would make the most sense.

What you describe is more than likely the hall sender so if the dizzy isn't full of oil and you are reasonably skilled, you can change the hall sender itself. From VW this is more than a complete distributor but from GSF it is quite sensibly priced. The part number is 052 998 065. When you change the hall sender it is quite easy to damage the distributor permanently and before you take you must make a note of the orientation of the chopper wheel and drive gear as the latter is offset. I would advise you to use the genuine VW exchange distributor as it comes compete with a cap, rotor and a two year guarantee but if the hall sender is half the price and you can fit it yourself, it may be worth the saving to you. Steve

I think Toad is probably spot on, change the dizzy for a genuine VW exchange unit 051 905 237 X, £93.38 inc. VAT.

A genuine exchange VW unit if you can afford it. What is the engine code?

Relay number four is the X relay which provides power to the headlights, wipers, heater blower etc. If this relay clicks, it is a good indication of a faulty ignition switch that could also cause your other problem.

What, Pierburg :2gunfire:

Not if it's a 2E2 Pierburg carb!

Almost every car we have to do discs on needs at least one drilling out.

Look on the distributor body top edge with the cap off and you will see a small notch, which is number one. Put the cap back on and look for the lead that corresponds to that notch and then follow the arrow on the outside of the distributor body in the firing order 1, 3, 4, 2. If someone has told you 1, 4, 3, 2, that is for the flat four motor. The mixture is enriched by turning the screw clockwise.

Are you still getting the clicking from the fuse box?

Agreed

Stick with K-Jet, just get it fixed. I had one in a few weeks back that the customer (a reasonably skilled mechanic) had been trying to fix and it ran like a dog. He was on about Webers, bike carbs and God knows what else and it turned out to be two small faults, one introduced when he was trying to fix it. Unless you are prepared to make the jump to throttle body injection or a 1.8T conversion, it just isn’t worth the pain. I have a saying, carburettors have a serious fuel injection problem, they aren’t.

You know, I struggle to agree with this OBD II definition.

Only if you are happy to run on Shell V Power all the time.

The camber on a VR6 is -1° 20΄

Read the post, doh.

Not easy to live with, stick with K-Jet.

It is bent, it attaches to the engine mount upper bracket.

There isn't a procedure as such, just make sure the caliper levers fully return when the handbrake is released. Which rear calipers are you using?

Sorry, meant to say, it is a 4 cylinder bell housing 02A series but as DiTch says, the ratios are different.

It can be done but you need some special spring compressors such as the Klann KL-0015 and they are very expensive.

How are you measuring the temp cut in, by the gauge?

What do you mean by it revs really high in 5th, 5K in 5th is around 110 mph, you need to clarify this. Wear in the box selector is common and it needs rebuilding.