Crasher

Take out number six plug and see if it is oiled up.

The engine ECU is connected to the diagnostic socket via the immobiliser code line. If the wiring is all intact, which it must be for it to run and communicate with the immobiliser, I would suspect the immobiliser itself. It is quite common for the immobilisers to prevent communication with the ECU. Try plugging in another immobiliser of the same part number (some are interchangeable) to see if it communicates. If it does, the best thing to do is take the car and both keys to a VW dealer and have them code in an exchange immobiliser or if you can get a used unit with two matched in keys, just swap the box and the chips from the donor car to the original ignition keys. Be careful removing the chips as they are very fragile.

I'm not selling it for him, so I will pass Vince’s details on to the chap and see what happens.

Golf 4 calipers are excellent but right hand side ones are still prone to failure as are the late Golf 3 versions. The trick with G4 calipers is to only use genuine VW or Textar pads (from GSF) and even then only use the self adhesive backing on the outer pad. If no self adhesive backing is used on the outer pad (such as when using G3 pads), the pads will howl like a Wookie in reverse. Also, you must use the G4 pad anti rattle shims with the G4 caliper. Leave the handbrake cable off until the brakes have been bled and pumped up around twenty times and you should then have a fantastic handbrake after a few hundred miles of bedding in. If the calipers are bought used, they must be wound back to their start position but then not wound out like earlier versions, just pumped out on the pedal. G4 calipers also work fine on all G2 and G3 (inc. Corrado) caliper carriers but if you are fitting them to an early Corrado or G2, or early G3, it is a good idea to fit the handed later G3 caliper carrier to prevent pad groan. One tip to prevent a silly failure of G4 aluminium calipers is to coat the bleed nipple with aluminium paste (or copper paste if you must) to prevent the steel nipple ripping out the thread in two years time, this is the single most common reason for G4 caliper failure and is also reason for exchange surcharge refusal by VW if they spot it. Beware on used G4 calipers of sized bleed nipples, split piston boots, sticking handbrake mechanisms on right hand calipers and damage to the sealing washer surface from the stupid aluminium sealing washer on original hoses. Thankfully, the Goodridge replacements for conversion work come with copper washers.

Traffic film remover-excellent.

For me the icing on the cake was to have been the paint job and I feel, not cheated as such but something-difficult to explain but you probably know what I mean... The Powerflex bushes for the front wishbones are, I think, fantastic but could be swapped easily (damn sump off again.......) and the rack bush couldn't offend anyone. The suspension is a little firm, an acquired taste, but I like it. I really hope he changes his mind but I promised him I would make the original post to see what response I got, I didn't expect it to stir up such a mix of feelings. Funnily enough for my customers to spend more than this on a Golf 1 or 2 isn’t unusual, but it isn’t so common with a Corrado. It seems that with a Corrado originality is everything and restored examples are looked upon with disdain when next to an original no where near as clean and nice to drive, funny that.

I built hit for him as a weekend fun car and we were just about to get it in for a strip down 6K re-spray and he suddenly realised he wasn't actually using it as it has sat in the corner of a unit at his business most of the summer and he uses his new Cayenne turbo all the time instead when he is in this country. It is a wonderful car to drive and if I didn't already have an embarrassing number of cars lying around I would buy it for the wife but one or two posts confirmed what I thought, about 6K so hopefully hearing that he will change his mind and keep it. It’s a bit heartbreaking for me and Ash (the mechanic here that did most of the work) because even though you get paid for doing the work, a job like that becomes part of you as you are building it for someone in particular and you get attached to the car.

G12+ will mix with anything.

How much would a 1995 Corrado VR6 be worth with the following spec? Paintwork OK but needs a little work in places, Ohh and its Dark Green metallic. The total mileage is around 94K and the new engine has only done a couple of thousand and still has at least a full year of VAG warranty left. Nearly £18K spent in the last year. Some of the parts fitted in the last year and ALL were new (except where stated), many genuine VW but there were many more small incidental items too boring to mention. 1 Genuine VW 2.9 ABV engine 2 Water pump 3 Electric water pump 4 Oil cooler 5 Water transfer pipe 6 Thermostat and housing 7 Poly V belt 8 Belt tensioner 9 Clutch 10 Clutch guide sleeve 11 Engine top cover 12 Ignition leads 13 Water hoses (most) 14 Engine mounts 15 Oil filter housing 16 All service items 17 Both knock sensors 18 Alternator and pulley 19 Starter motor 20 Accel cable 21 Temp senders 22 Air mass meter 23 Radiator 24 Supersprint cat back exhaust 25 Full gear linkage rebuild 26 Rear wheel bearings 27 Goodridge hoses all round 28 Rear pressure regulator 29 Rear ABS rotors 30 Offside rear caliper 31 Front brakes upgraded to 288-mm using Black Diamond discs and pads and refurbished hubs, calipers and carriers 32 Front wheel bearings 33 Front back plates 34 All metal brake pipes throughout the car replaced with Kunifer 35 ABS pump and ECU overhauled 36 New power steering hoses 37 Powerflex rack bush 38 Both track rods, ends and rack boots 39 Weitec GT fixed lowering suspension kit 40 New top mounts and shortened front bump stops 41 Rear axle bushes (standard) 42 Front wishbones and Powerflex bushes 43 Ball joints 44 Anti roll bar buses (standard) 45 Anti roll bar links 46 Genuine heater matrix 47 Heater control unit and cables 48 Windscreen (genuine with full surround set) and localised repairs to frame 49 Battery 50 Front and rear ABS sensors 51 Battery main power cables 52 Heater blower fan 53 Dash board lights 54 Offside front seat belt (genuine) 55 In Pro angel eye headlights 56 Full headlight relay system inside the car, one relay per headlight filament, wired up so the dipped beam stays on with the main beam. 57 In Pro red/clear rear tail lights 58 Clear side repeaters. 59 Full Thatcham cat 1 alarm system with LED’s in door button holes and total closure connected. 60 New genuine headlight switch 61 New inner door foils. 62 Nearside window slot seal 63 Full original used low mileage black leather interior with heated seats

87

The main problem is that the mechanical lifter valves are longer but the lack of a cam bearing on journal 4 could be a long term issue if the engine was being used at very high RPM. Why do you want to do this?

I have fitted quite a lot on Golf 4 TDI's and have been very pleased with customer feedback.

Either VAG, Behr or Wahle

Ohh bugger, I asked for that. Third gear is slightly different on the AYK at 1.43 whereas in the CGY it is 1.45, nothing important.

Check the vacuum feed to the dash from the pipe coming of the servo feed pipe at a "T" piece.

The manual transmission Corrado 2L 16V with a 9A engine is known as a type 509 034 and was produced from 08/91 to 07/92 with an AYK gearbox and from 08/92 to 07/95 with a CGY gearbox.

Don't remove it or your oil will get too hot, just replace the upper "O" ring 038 117 070 A, about £3 from the dealer.

Ohh those Brembo's on a Golf 2 4-stud, unreal stopping power...

The vacuum comes from the inlet manifold.

It needs to go on a lift to check for movement in the wheel bearings, ball joints, track rod inner and outer ends, rack, top mounts and rack mounts or even wishbone bushes, it's no use guessing.

What are you trying to do?

536 612 041 A is about as close to perfect as you can get.

Just to give a bit of background - after speaking with the guys at thinkauto (who were the most useless people I've ever talked with) that make the oil coolers, they don't have a suitable bracket for my cooler and their fans were £25 (not thermostated). I was going to try it all out first with a high power 12v fan I've got, and then move to a proper one if it looks like it'll work, and I thought first port of call would be to run it when the second stage cooling kicks in for the rad.... Bizarre, some of the most helpful and decent people in the business, you must have caught them on a bad day.

So will I!

Does the loss of assistance only happen in the wet?