Crasher

You have an air leak either in the servo (unlikely) or on the feed pipe from the manifold to the servo, basically the servo isn't working and it will also make the engine run lean.

All depends on what system you are running as a converted car can be done in so many different ways.

Unplugging the MAF would cause that fault if the ignition was one. Can you post the fault code number for the lambda error?

It may just need bleeding or at the worst a new master or slave cylinder. The speedo fault is odd though, I have seen this on cable speedo cars where someone has tried to start the car with the main earth lead off. This causes a drain of current through the speedo which heats up the return spring and prevents it returning to zero.

Have you checked the "O" ring inside the expansion bottle cap?

Yes.

Yes, with the Golf 3 288-mm calipers, carriers AND suitable wheels as the ATE calipers on the 288-mm set up catch on a lot of wheels.

That’s an 00-02 Ibiza Cupra R Brembo caliper carrier for the 305-mm brakes but I have never used that in a 5 stud application so I am not sure if it will work. If you have to buy them and they don't work, it's not the end of the world at just over £18 each.

You may have to cut it off and fit a new hose/pipe with the new slave and the hose/pipe part number is 357 721 465 A, about £38. The hose goes up to the inner wing where it joins a solid pipe along to the master cylinder and if you are unlucky enough for that to also fail, you will need 536 721 477 A, about £17.

The KR1.8 16v engine never had any form of diagnostic ability whatsoever and European G60's didn’t where certain later US market versions did. I had to double check this morning but I was wrong about rare PL engined models with diagnostics, they wasn't one with the PL. The 2E and ADY 2L 8v's, 9A 2L 16v's and VR6's all had diagnostics.

It will be the "O" ring that has failed but to replace it you have to remove the thermostat housing.I should move a little.

Up to the end of January 1991, the KR engine used a strange and unreliable pulley system on the water pump with a slip ring outer pulley for an idler on the power steering belt, the part number for the whole assembly being 027 121 028. The belt for the main crank pulley (the rear groove of the machined steel rubber damped pulley) went to the idler pulley mentioned above and then up to the alternator using a 9.5x 950 (10 x 950 really) belt. The power steering belt went around the outer pressed steel pulley, then onto the pressed pulley bolted over the slipper pulley and around the PS pump pulley and back to the crank using a 9.5 x 730 belt up to chassis wvwzzz50zMK005059 (Nov 1990) and after that a 9.5 x 630 although this chassis numbers is approximate.

You will get no voltage at the fan plug without the coolant temp senders commanding the control box to send out a voltage, either the sender on the head or the one on the radiator. The red/white wire is for speed one and the red/black for speed two. You need to get a copy of the wiring diagram for the fan control system but it is common for the fan control relay unit to play up, even catch fire.

You will have trouble code reading it unless it is one of the super rare PL engined 1.8 16v's, the KR has no diagnostic ability.

http://www.candrenterprises.co.uk/selec ... ion=Engine £77.50 for cars with a coil pack and £87.50 for cars with a distributor. Ignore the Lake Speed name, it should read Blue Igniters and you may need to go back to the home page an select performance engine parts, Corrado, ignition leads if the stupid link fails. The proper VW tool should be clipped to the bonnet stay (VW part number 021 012 and just less than £15) but it is pretty useless after a couple of uses so the Snap On tool http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... k&tool=all) at just under £42 is the dogs do dahs and will last for ever. However, as it is metal, do not use it whilst the engine is running and don't ask how I know this!

It is a common problem and probably only needs setting up, something any decent VW specialist can do.

Pattern, metal and genuine exchange plastic.

Thats normal.

Assuming the Co and ignition timing are correct, try this. Turn on the ignition and make sure the ISV buzzes gently, if it doses not buzz, there is a fault in the system. Start the engine and run it until the fan comes on. Locate the idle stabilizer ECU power feed connector at the coil, which has a 1.5-mm red-black wire from both sides of a single terminal male and female white plastic connector and disconnect it. As the idle stabilizer wire is disconnected, the engine may stall. If it does, re-connect it and wind out the idle screw a little and try again. When you have the engine running with the idle stabilizer wire disconnected, set the idle at 1000 rpm using the idle by-pass screw.

Windscreen leak, if you have ABS the ECU will be filling up with water.

Genuine

It's not that there is anything wrong with K-Jet, it just isn't very easy to modify but there are some off the shelf parts and old stock such as Turbo Technics parts that can make it easier. Personally I would just fit a modern 1.8T unit as it is much easier.

First of all he needs to drop the compression from 10.5:1 to around 8.

Take the cover off the ECU (in the passenger’s foot well) and remove the ECU. Un plug it and see if the connectors are showing corrosion damage. If they are, the ECU is probably water damaged.

Sachs Sporting but the pedal pressure is evil.