Crasher

Yes, that is a full engine, exchange, but the one I have just fitted looked absolutely brand new. The only downside was the upper cam chain cover is for a very late Golf 3 VR6 Syncro and so the cam position sender location and sender wheel are wrong and must be changed (to your old parts) before fitting the engine.

Matching is err, matching!

£2244.23 inc. VAT for a block with pistons or £2753.85 inc VAT for a full engine (although it has to be modified BEFORE installation). That’s changed a lot since last time I looked, the block option would be stupid now.

Sorry to be slow replying, I was picking my toys up :2gunfire: . I only carry a hand bag at the weekend, never during the week, it was expensive and I don't want to get oil on it :norty: . I adapt the later throttle bodies in basic adjustment (04), group 098. Forgive the cut and paste, it’s just quicker, VW's view is, "Matching teaches the engine control unit (with ignition switched on and engine not running) the throttle valve control part stop positions and a comparison graph between throttle valve potentiometer and throttle valve positioner sender. Matching sequence must be performed on vehicles after 08.95 if: ◆ The voltage supply is interrupted ◆ The throttle valve control unit is removed and installed ◆ The throttle valve control unit is renewed ◆ If when installing another engine another throttle valve control unit is installed"

They are the same but re-boring to 2.9 is not worth the money involved. A new 2.9 block with pistons from VW isn't daft money and even a full exchange unit is less than 3K.

The device on the fuel rail is an excess pressure sensor to kick in the fuel pump with the engine off. Unfortunately, most do not work, as the standard way of immobilising a car is to cut the fuel pump feed, so no pump run on! To check the lambda, measure the voltage on the signal wire or even easier, just disconnect it to see what happens. Is the Co excessive at idle?

Go for 35-mm exhaust valves and a Piper 270 cam, easy to live with.

Temper temper! :shock: If you are going to be abusive and use faintly disguised obscene language, I will drop out of this, you are a moderator after all and are supposed to set an example :oops: . I understand that is what can happen on one car, but it is not definitive, my experience has been different to yours after working on countless VR6’s since the early 90’s. Common sense would dictate that you aim for a figure between the two extremes, say 15 degrees as I have found that if the figure drops below 12 degrees the car stumbles off idle, but it is also worth bearing in mind another VAG quote on the subject, “If throttle valve basic setting stop screw has been altered, renew throttle valve housing”.

It all depends on how you are planning on managing the 9A as they use KE-Motroinc injection, never used on a 6N. I am glad you don't want to use an ABF, I don't think you would be able to close the bonnet unless it was a 6N2. I would personally forget 16v and go 1.8T, easier and much more power.

It depends on which ECU you are running?

It's an easy job but a pain to list it out step by step. The Golf 2 Haynes comic has a reasonable description of the job which is almost identical to a Corrado. Have you ever done a cam belt on a car and replaced a cam?

Check that the vacuum pipes on the back of the throttle body aren’t the wrong way around.

Jonny, Has your VR6 got a dizzy or a coil pack?

Putting the goo on the back of the bearings is probably what did it, having a film on the backing significantly closes up the clearances, preventing an oil film building up. The other possibility I thought of was if you had put 0.25 undersize shells on a standard crank. The trouble with a VR6 is that taking the crank out is such a lot of work, gearbox out, cam chains off (replace whilst you are in there) etc.

I had two like this recently, both turned out to be a faulty ECU, filled with water from a leaking windscreen. Take out the left hand kick panel and remove the ECU. Un-plug the wiring connector and look at the plug and socket to see if there are any signs of corrosion. If there is, take off the main cover and the ECU will probably be full of water or signs of it having been there. I also had a faulty ECU on a Golf 2 G60 (the same ECU) and that wasn't water damage.

288's are an easy conversion if you have suitable wheels and 312's will work as well. Going further than that means big money on something like Tarox or Brembo etc calipers and discs.

The jig is designed to slide onto our gearbox jack and goes up under the cup with the damper in the car and the car on a lift (wheel off). We jack up the spring plate and use some special circlip pliers to open up the circlip and move it up or down as required and then slowly release the jack to drop the spring plate back onto the circlip. It saves about an hour and a half.

Stupid question really but I have to ask, did you put graphogen on the back of the shells? Also, did you get oil pressure up on the starter with the plugs out before starting? If you are lucky, you can pull it apart again and polish the crank with some W&D and reassemble and try again. I saw this once where a mechanic had put the hells in without regard for where the locating tabs went and another where one of the caps was on back to front. Not changing the bolts can also cause this.

You would need to take account of the new wheel offset, he would need something like an ET50 but it would be a cool way of making it work. If you can machine adapters, you an also machine to mountings for the blank caliper carriers. I wish I had the time to do things like this these days, too busy!

Exactly what thay do. The dampers are made by Alko.

Yes they can be moved. We have made a jig that allows the plate to be lifted in position to allow the circlip to be moved up or down. You may get the car down enough this way but the bump stops will be heavily loaded and the ride will die! Pull the dampers out and shorten them.

You could adapt the calipers to work on some Ibiza Cupra R 305 discs (caliper adapters are readily available blank and ready to machine) as they are 4x100 and bolt staright onto your hub. How you will make the 5x130 discs fit a G60 is anyone’s guess. I wonder if the bell is deep enough to take a 4x100 to 5x130 adapter?

You need to pull out the rear dampers and cut down the rear bump stops by about 30-mm from the top and drop the rear spring plate at least one circlip position. This is the trouble with Weitec being sold by companies that don't include instructions as they are often quirky kits. We usually don't sell the 4 cyl cars kit as the front is too low. Preferring to sell the VR6 kit and compensate for the rear being 10-mm too low by bringing the spring pate up one circlip position.

Sorry for all the questions but, did you get the kit from me (C&R)? What is the kit number on the guarantee card? What are the ride heights front and rear measured form the centre of the wheel to the edge of the arch at 12 o'clock?