Jump to content

mattnorgrove

Legacy Donators
  • Content Count

    1,269
  • Joined

Everything posted by mattnorgrove

  1. Places like Kwik Fit wont use the rim seal anymore, you'll need to go to a smaller chain/garage to get that done, mine were doing this, it turned out the tyres were all fine, but corrosion around the inside rim was allowing air to leak out. I've bought a spare set of speedlines while i get my originals refurbed to stop this happening...
  2. I did the thermal resistor fix on mine, and found that speed 1 still didn't work. 2 mins with a pair of point nose pliers did the trick, just "persuade" the contact out a little...
  3. Mmmmmm. Ice Grey Violet. The 2nd best colour for a C. ;0) Looks very tidy mate! The MK1 looked very nice too.
  4. Looks like a nice one you've found yourself there mate. Enjoy, and welcome to The Forum!
  5. Looks like a nice one you've found yourself there mate. Enjoy, and welcome to The Forum!
  6. Gulp! Good luck with the repair mate, you might have a good idea using a front wing, the radii must be pretty close to one another. Keep us posted. And welcome!
  7. Mine arrived this morning too, stunning photo on the front. Very tasty looking C
  8. I would think the loom runs from the probe on the exhaust to the ECU? Or maybe not? I'm sure someone'll be along soon to explain...
  9. 4 or 5 stud? (ie Valver/G60 or VR)
  10. 192, just a BMC CDA fitted, the rest's all standard...
  11. Good work, looks superb now! Massive improvement. Welcome!!
  12. Yeah got to agree, that Caterham looked insane, truly brown-trouser fast! 900 odd thousand pounds cheaper, and faster round the track than the £1m Veyron. That seemed to go down well with the audience! British car FTW for once!!
  13. Beaten by a hairdresser! Bet you don't miss 2nd next time!! ;0)
  14. Does the rad fan still run on after you've turned the engine off? My old valver had this problem, turned out the afterrun had been disconnected. Reconnected and it was fine. It helps stop the fuel evaporating after shutoff. The connector for it is on the front left side of the head, as you look towards the rear of the car. Might be worth a look...
  15. Also side trims around bottom sides of front seats were added, door cards changed slightly, as did door pockets. Also the later cars did away with the analogue odometer for the digital one. And were fitted with the larger 15 gallon fuel tank...
  16. The resistor pack sits on the side of the actual blower motor, the blower is hidden behind/above the passenger side undertray (below the glovebox). If you extract the motor itself, use the wiki guide for changing the thermal resistor is invaluable, I got my replacement from Maplins... HTH Alternative to the Haynes "The Bentley Manual", have a search on Amazon/Ebay, theres usually a few about. In the region of £70 tho...
  17. Yeah mine suffers the same, I think the bearing in the blower wears with age and reduces its efficiency. A good clue to the bearing being shot is having to do the thermal fuse replacement in the blower motor, to get back speeds 1-4 on the dial (which I did). Speed 4 seems the same as Speed 1 on mine though! Just sounds louder. LOL. I THINK the MK2 golf unit is a direct replacement, if you can't source a Corrado specific unit.
  18. Don't know the exact timing 0-60 for the 1.8 16v, but it IS quicker than the 2.0 16v, (both in standard form obviously) due to different gear ratios. The 1.8 will hit 60 in 2nd unlike the 2.0 hence the quicker time. HTH And welcome!
  19. I've had problems with the heated mirrors before, could be corrosion on the spade connectors on the back of the glass, or failed elements. Not sure why the rear screen would be slow to clear, do you have a multimeter? I could check the voltage/current draw across mine for reference. Thanks for that andy. I presume it should 12V across the demist connectors? Aplogies for the Hijack, but if you could measure the resistance across a known good element, that would be very helpful to me, I know my switch works have cleaned the spade connectors either side of the element, (male and female halves) and receive 12v at the connectors when the switch is turned on. Still get no demisting of the back screen though! I've checked for breaks in the actual element all the way across the whole rear screen and nothing is apparently broken, really starting to annoy me though, as with this cold weather we've had, a rear demister would be very handy!! Thanks in advance chaps! :D
  20. The original pods just don't hold a big enough speaker, and the build doesn't lend itself to good sound quality. Your best bet is definitely Audioscape pods. 16cm speakers then, amped up, and you're on the way to a nice sounding setup. HTH Welcome to the forum BTW!
  21. I was gonna say just that, then thought better of upsetting the PC brigade, so I'm glad you said it yourself!! :lol: Cool van though, good luck with the conversion. :D
  22. I've had a feel about in the passenger footwell, and found the carpet a bit wet towards the front, definitely not coolant though smells clean, so it looks like the foliage seal in the scuttle need the seal re-doing. It would explain the recent damp steamyness...
  23. Yup mine's done it for 3 years too! Try Rain-x stuff for condensation, seemed to work for a bit on mine.. Hope it is that and not the 1st sign of the matrix blowing. Cheers for the tip i'll give it a whirl...
×
×
  • Create New...