Mark_Storm

If the lever on the flap has jumped any teeth then you need to replace the whole thing. That's what had happened to mine, but for the dash vents. Tried repairing it but no joy. You can pick up a spare heater matrix for around £20-30, fitting it takes the best part of a day though

If you unplug that cable from the back of the control unit can you change the direction flow manually?

Not sure you need to take all that out just to check behind the controls. Pretty sure you just need to pull off the 3 control knobs (make sure you know which one goes where, don't know how they're different but they are), pull off the plastic surround for the knobs (fingers or thin flat headed screw driver will do it) and then unscrew the four screws you can see in the corners. You can then pull the control unit through. Bit fiddly but not difficult.

I currently have a similar problem and after pulling it all apart it will be one of 3 problems: the cable (unlikley but worth checking as its the simplest thing it can be), the control unit or the heater matrix. I had 2 problems; the lever on the heater matrix was worn and this in turn had broken the controls as I tried to force it round. I'd start with taking the heater control unit out, this is pretty simple and doesn't take too long. Release the cable for the direction control at the back and test the controls to see if they work. Then move the cable it manually (be careful not to bend it), it should slide smoothly and if you look from the passenger side round behind the bottom of the dash you should see a lever moving. This should tell you wher the problem lies

I just had a hunt on ebay and couldn't find him, do you have a link? Was it just a one off sale or does the guy supply them? Try this link http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-GENUINE-VW-AE ... dZViewItem Its only for an aero wiper conversion but just email him and ask if he can modify some tt ones for you

Well that definately beats the 300bhp you were hoping for! Looking awesome mate, can't wait to come and have a look. Should be out again early next week.

I bought my TT wiper setup from a guy called Lesbray off Ebay a few months ago fully modded for £80. He even included instructions on how to cut down new blades for when they need replacing. If anyone is after a set but doesn't want the hassle of cutting them down yourself then its worth trying him. Just email him if he hasn't got any for sale and he can probably make up a set for you.

Well both Weitecs and FKs have good feedback. There's no point going for the FK Konigsports or SIlverline X as you're paying for the adjustable damping, just go with the Highsports or Silverlines. I'd check out the group buy for the FKs and compare that against the price you had for the Weitecs, doubt there's much difference between them

Are you wanting adjustable rebound or just adjustable height? Not sure you can necessarily compare FK Silverline X coilovers with Weitecs if the Weitecs are not rebound adjustable. I think the standard weitecs are similar in spec to the highsports, konigsports have Koni dampers with adjustable rebound (silverline X has stainless steel pistons). I was worried about having suspension that was too hard so went for adjustable rebound but not sure if it was necessary or not, I don't have mine on the softest setting anymore so possibly the fixed dampers would have been fine.

:2gunfire: Hi-jacked :lol:

You can test to see if there's a brreak in the wire - test the resistance in the wire from the headunit and the speaker using a multimeter. If there's no resistance then the cable is damaged somewhere, if there is resistance then there is another problem. If I was fitting new components then I would probably re-wire anyway, or more likely run them from an amp. Not sure how well it works running them from the standard wiring as it all goes through the dash tweeters.

I haven't tried changing the discs / pads on the C yet but previous cars I have just pushed the caliper back in with my thumbs. Slow but does work. Be careful if you use anything as a lever that you get an even force across the caliper, just pushing it at one point on the caliper can knock it out of alignment.

I'm after one of these so let me know when you're selling

Cool, thanks. Let the next stage of the never ending project begin

I've been running my FK Silverline X's for a few months now and really happy with them. Haven't slammed it by any means but a significant drop (esp at the rear!) and still a comfortable ride. Would definately recommend them

I notice from your signature you've got your 288mm brakes all set up. Just bought some of these off ebay and need to get the rest of the gear to fit them. Am I right in thinking I just need new discs, pads and Golf VR6 braided hoses? Or did you have to get some extra stuff to fit them?

Sorry to hi jack this thread, but if you're not doing the whole wash / prep / polish / wax thing, should you use a shampoo/wax or is a normal shampoo fine to use?

Link still works for me, try copying this into the address bar: http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/produc ... 656&page=1

I actually stole the idea from another thread I found on here: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... obulbs.com Its got the link to the resistors on autobulbs and a picture of them soldered into position. Make sure the contacts are clean before you start or the solder just won't take, I just rubbed them down with some sand paper which worked a treat.

Hi Dave, my passenger door is pretty close to dead and the drivers side not feeling too good, can I get hold of a kit for each side please

Thanks for all those part numbers Jim, with any luck the garage can get all the parts tomorrow and have me back on the road home. Anyone got any opinions on my quick fix idea if luck is not on my side?

I am stuck in Switzerland because one cooling pipe has split and the coolant tube has broken. Can someone please tell me the ETKA numbers for: a) the coolant tube (goes between the coolant pump and thermostat housing, has the drain plug and connection to the oil cooler) b) the coolant pipe between the above coolant tube and the oil cooler Also, in case the garage cannot get hold of a replacement coolant tube, does anyone know if it is possible to temporarily repair the it? The bit that sticks out to attach the coolant pipe from the oil cooler to has snapped off. My thought was to drill out the hole in the coolant tube to push the broken bit into using araldite or a similar epoxy resin to seal it back in. Anyone tried anything similar? Any advice would be much appreciated!!!

If you can afford them then defaintely go for coilovers. You can set the ride height to what you want, i.e. as low as possible without causing problems on the road. I think it's worth going for some with adjustable damping too, as fixed damping can often be set too hard for cr@p roads. I've got Fks fitted to mine and would recommend them, although I haven't tried any others

Resistors from maplins etc won't work. They do but burn out very quickly (3-4 flashes). I bought a pair of resistors from Autobulbs, £5.50 + £1.50p&p, soldered them in and job done. Bulbs were about £7 off ebay from a guy in Hong Kong so £14 all in all

Yep, VW did my chains, headgasket etc about 2 years ago and didn't bother to tighten all of the cam nuts so when Stealth opened it up 2 of the nuts were pretty close to just coming off! Spending money on the cams has potentially saved me a new engine