jonnyboyo

Will standard dampers (f & r) from a 2.0 valver fit a 1.8 valver? And can you fit 40mm lowering springs to these safely?? Many thanks.

£1500 should get you a decent 1.8 with the mileage you specify. Leather is quite rare unfortunately, so would be a real bonus if you found one. I paid £2000 for my 1.8 with 2 owners, 117k and FSH (95% VAG) 14 months ago. Everything worked and its a nice genuine straight one, albeit with a couple of very small dings on both doors. The sunroof stopped sliding (the common problem) soon after purchase but still tilts as most still do when the slide function packs up. I'd probably only return around the £1500-£1700 mark now so there are good ones out there if your willing to wait and travel.

Slide the sunroof back and poke a bike cable or guitar string down each hole (one in each corner) to clear the drains of any cack. My o/s belt does exactly the same as yours, but unfortunately mysunroof doesn't slide :( Make sure you let us know how you get on. If this method cures your problem it will give me the kick up the backside to get my sunroof sorted.

My unbranded drilled & grooved have been faultless :)

True, but for those who aren't looking for an all out "track quality" set-up maybe they'll do just fine. I wouldn't mind knowing if anyone has used these, or similar, or knows anyone who has. I'm not blessed with deep pockets and a pucka set of FK silvers and the like for £500+ would be wasted on me as i don't do track or drive to extremes on the street. :)

Yeah, he'd cover his cross with it to prevent stone chips.

When my cat on a Renault 19 16v became eggy pongy, it went and collapsed on me!! Mechanic said a duff lamba sensor was sending to much fuel through it which 'poisened' it. But then it was a Renault, everything collapsed on them :lol: :lol:

Bumpety bump!.....I'm running out of time to secure these :(

I can't see the point in them tbh. If your ride has a badly stone chippeed bonnet, get it resprayed. Why hide a nice paint job under an ugly black piece of cloth? Whats next, bodygloves ala mobile phone style to cover the whole car? Zero stone chips then. Reckon i've added at least a fivers worth of opinion there :lol: :lol:

Can anyone second VR's knowledge on the above question ??? The kit is off a Mk3 Golf CL.

Cheers for that mate, much appreciated. If anyone can second the above you'd make ma day! I'm desperate for these before he flogs them to someone else!

I got brand new standard sized front & rear, drilled & grooved discs from ebay for £100 + £10.50 postage. I got OMP fast road pads front & rear also from ebay. £20.99 & 21.99 respectively. Was a tad dubious at first regards using unbranded discs, but i need not have worried as they've been on my car for 8 months now and are still going great guns! The discs were from sportbrakediscs, username mtec100. Try punching this item number in ebay.....290106415927 It will bring up front & rear drilled & grooved for a VR for £104.99 + £10.50 postage. Hope this helps!

BUMP......anyone??

Jeeze, i had no idea the new cooper s' were that quick :shock: They're only punting out around 180bhp aren't they? Has he modded it?

Will Mk3 Golf coilovers fit a 1990 G reg 1.8 16v Rado? They're FK's apparantly that fit all Mk3's but the lad doesn't know it they'll fit my c :( Many thanks.

VXR's have 240bhp

Hi, welcome to the gang matey. Always good to see another valver (especially an early) joining us. Defo use the search, there's been plenty of posting ref water leaks. Lots of causes i'm afraid! But try poking a brake cable or guitar string down the 4 sunroof drains (in the corners) to push out any crud thats preventing water from flowing through. Providing your sunroof slides of course! :)

Just taken a look in my latest Rallye News (the RS owners club mag) that has the up to date pricings for all RS models. Mk2 RS 1800's ARE PRICED AS FOLLOWS :- AVERAGE COND....(minor bodywork & interior wear & tear acceptable, mechanically sound with no major faults, MOT & some s/hist)......£10,500 GOOD COND....(bodywork & interior to be in serviceable condition with no major damage such as dents or scratches, must be in good all round mechanical condition with s/hist & MOT).......£16,000 A1....(bodywork & interior to be in unmarked condition, i.e, no dents or scratches, tears or rips in seating/trim. Must have excellent tyres/wheels, brakes, s/hist, documented history and MOT).......£18,500 CONCOURSE.....(all original, no modifications, low miles, near perfect interior/ exterior, proven history and documented).......£23,000+ And on a unrelated note, my S1 RST has been verified as in A1 cond and has a value of £5000-£7000 according to the guide........WOO-HOO!!!! :) :) (apologies for the shameless outburst of glee there)!

I drove a mates ctr a while back and i have to say you definitely don't need to keep them on the boil for them to shove a bit. I'd read all the hipe in the mags that they do fook all in the low revs, but that was utter cr*p! I was expecting an "This isn't very fast is iiiiiiIIIIIIIIT...Woah" experience! But you only had to look at the throttle and it'd be off. Defo not flat low down. Maybe something to do with his being the facelifted ctr which Honda fettled, i think by fitting a lighter flywheel to improve low end pull due to the lowly torque figure. I was driving a 255bhp JDM GT4 at the time but you could still feel that vtec kick in :shock: I've never had the pleasure of driving a vr but i wouldn't have thought a bog standard ctr and vr would be much different in speed. Just a totally different power delivery.

My oil lamp/buzzer comes on intermittantly now and then. Usually after i've just checked the oil level, which is always spot on. There are 2 sensors (one brown, one white) on the oil filter housing that are possibly linked to the oil warning light illuminating. Hopefully one of the more clued up valver chaps(esse's) will verify this point. :)

Maybe front nearside bearing dodgy too?

Hmmmm, its hard to tell from here. I think the rack may look a tad small as though there's a bit missing. My rack is of a similar type to yours, but with the padded bottom bit sat on the bumper the bit where you slide the bikes into on mine would be at the top of the windcreen. Have you tried adjusting the whole rack by turning those knobs that look like seat recliner wheels? If you take them all the way out the rack should move into a few different positions.

All the arms should be adjustable mate. Sit the base on the bumper as previously then the bits that ar angled down should unscrew allowing them to be raised. Maybe put some pics up so we can take a gander for you.

Jeeze, i wouldn't want to even test the standard pie tins on an early valver :shock: When i bought my valver they were completely hopeless. Put it down to having a late shape GT4 with mahoosive standard discs previously. But after going back up north and driving the RST, which are synonymous with having horrendously woeful brakes, my humble valver was putting in just as pitiful a performance :( I fitted standard sized drilled & grooved discs front & rear with OMP fast road pads, new rear calipers and new fluid which transformed the braking. Ok, i still have to shove the pedal some to get a reaction, but at least i get one now and they really dig in when pushing the pedal hard.

I think its just a case of modifying the fk to fit....zip-tie stylee!!! Thats what i've read from previous posts anyway :D I'd like to know if you can get a new style, 2 or 3 bar grille for an early valver too. Hopefully someone will enlighten us!