jonnyboyo

EMIRC the 2 batteries you have had are good ones. Theres obviously something draining the battery when your not using the car, and it is 15yrs old now so the wiring could be a little tired. A car should be able to be left for a week and still be able to be started. I'm sure when they were brand new they didn't have this problem. Maybe get an auto electrician to have a look to try and source the drain. It could be something really simple. Good luck.

Whoa!!!...I think we need some lovin back here lol! :) I don't think we should be comparing reliability ratios here coz we all know that C's have a standing joke on their reliability! As for Scoobs being unreliable, i have to agree with Dave on this. The only reason some chew their engines is coz you can pick an L reg version for 3k, prob less. This puts them within the means of Saxo drivers who then boost the power by fitting crap, cheap chips, then run it on the cheapest weak as p*ss fuel they can get their hands on from supermarkets. And invariably the car will be a Japanese import which as we all know MUST be run on good quality high octane fuel (unless you start re-mapping it for UK fuel and put fuel cut defencers on etc) otherwise the engines start pinking or running way to lean and way to hot......hey presto, a melted piston or two. The Scoobs were continually developed through their production, so an early classic probably has little resembelance to a late spec version. Thats my tupence anyway! Peace n'all that :luvlove:

Just don't go for the 'every little helps' Tesco super unleaded :lol:

True. But its still awesome!!! Got me thinking of a 150bhp tdi engine transplant lol! All the C fun and still fast, but economical. I'm just a brassick Northern tight arse :lol: :lol:

Don't do it, you know it'll strip your bank account lol!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Will one of these lighter flywheels be of benefit on a 1.8 valver with 124k? And how much are they? They sound tempting :)

NEIL G60 they defo logged the reaction times at York raceway. It was a full on day event with all manner of weird and wonderfull cars from big block nitrous injected yank tanks to tricked out Skylines!! JAMESVR6 i'm not sure what octane booster is good unfortunately. Hopefully some of the VR and G60 guys & galls have experience????? Halfords sell some from the company NOS. It reads well claiming to raise RON by a good few points. Its about a tenner i think. That one is prob better than the cheap Wynns or STP tackle. Oh, and good reaction time there lol!! I have a Series 1 RST tucked away in a garage and know all to well how easily the wheels spin on them. Lord knows how you didn't sit there on the line doing a burn out with 200bhp!! :shocked!:

Yeah the standard systems are mega bucks, no idea why coz these aren't fancy complicated cars. A full system for my GT4 from Toyota was only £540 and they're stainless steel from factory. Kinda puts oem vag stuff into perspective really. Good luck with the exhaust hunt :)

Hey you might not do to bad you no. A mate did a 'run what ya brung' up at York raceway in his dyno proven 301bhp Evo 6 Tommi Makkinen, and he was pants. He only managed low 15's and did about 3 runs. Ok it was the first time he'd ever done a 1/4 mile, which was strongly backed up by his reaction times (which were laughable) and the fact he refused to dump his clutch for a good launch. Plus, them Supras have gotta weigh some coz there HUGE. I had a last shape GT4 before my C and was told that they were heavy cars compared to scoobs and evo's, so don't right yourself off yet dude! Its all in the reaction time and launch. Make your car as light as poss, put smaller wheels on if your on 17's, make sure your running Shell V-Power and chuck some good octane booster in. If all else fails, use the force!!! Kick some butt man :blackeye:

Try all the usual suspects such as magnex, milltek, etc. Pretty much every exhaust manufacturer will do a back box for your corrado. Definitely go for stainless steel if you decide to go after market as they're much better quality. Rear boxes on their own tend to be rather pricey in my opinion, say around the £150-ish mark. Espesially considering the whole exhaust can be had for around £300. Worth checking the condition of all your zorst while your at it. Mine seemed fine then let go big stylee without warning. Standard units are very expensive, i got quoted £450-£500 from Kwik-Fit and an independant garage. No idea how much they are from VW. I went to Longlife Exhausts in the end and had a whole s/steel system fitted on my 1990 G reg (pre-cat) 1.8 16v for £319 all in. The price should have been £289 but i wanted a slightly bigger oval tail pipe which cost an extra £30. Worth noting that the sales guy said he'd knock 10% off for members of the forum. The fit was spot on and there has never been any knocking or banging from the exhaust, which can be a common problem on after market exhausts for the corrado. There are Longlife places up and down the country so should be one near you. Check out the 'definitive exhaust thread' for all sorts of feedback and comments on different exhausts. Hope this helps!

Ouch! Things don't half add up. I've just about got over my £550 outlay last October for my mot. :roll:

Gotta beat marriage and kids for a plan though!!

:lol: :lol: :lol:

I'd go for a diesel. Mate of mine has just got a 150bhp TDI VW Boring (Bora) and it goes like STINK i'm telling you. Its a bog standard 2003 ex company effort with FSH, 103k, all the toys like 4x leccy windows, air-con & climate, premium sound system upgrade which goes loud as fook with tons of bass, alloys, in dash 6 disc CD etc. And all for £5250, plus its absolutely mint. The fuel economy is awesome and it sounds rather beefy too. No car that fast should be returning 40+ mpg urban when driven like its been nicked.

A pink chopper, narf narf!!!

The only thing i can think of is that that scooby wasn't alarmed which is why they targeted that one. You wouldn't believe how quick these f*****g s**t head b*****ds can strip the front of a car down. At work i have to take the report when some scrote(s) have taken the whole front of the car (always fords) and i mean bonnet, both wings, slam panel, cross member, bumper, head lights, fogs and radiator. I'm not kidding when i say the cars look as though they have been involved in a nasty head on. And we're not talking just old fords either. The new Fiesta's are getting hit now. And whats the common link throughout?....No alarms, and nobody ever sees or hears anything. Get yourselves a GOOD alarm for your pride and joy. I'd hate for anyone on here to go through what that poor scooby owner had to go through.

Do you know any coppers dwhatley? They could do a PNC (police national computer) check on the registration which will come back with the registered owners name and address. The police aren't allowed to check things on PNC for personal reasons, hence why it is audited, but it is not to say that some don't. Worth a try, if you know a copper the worst they can say is no.

Nice one Yandards. A 'how to' that even i can follow! This seal will explain why my heater motor has always made strange noises lol!

Nice one jim. You just saved me a trip to VW!! Can't believe the prices though. £118 ish :shocked!:

Do the clutch test as mentioned above. Thats what i did to tell that my front mount was goosed. GSF do the front mount for £37 incl vat. I just looked on the AVS site and they are £38, not sure if this is with vat though. I think i'll go with the AVS jobbie on davidworts recommendation, as not all things said about GSF parts is good.

Could be the engine mounts mate. The big round one to the right of the oil filter is known for going i think. Have someone put the car in gear and depress the clutch up and down whilst you check the amount of movement in the engine & mount. Mine needs replacing as theres quite a bit of movement. I first noticed mine was broken when setting off from a stand still as there was a slight thud when taking up drive. Not sure how much the mount is from VW but they are £37 from GSF incl VAT.

More power for one and they are easier to eek more bhp from than their 16v counterparts. Although judging from the tech specs the G60 isn't any faster to 60 than a 1.8 16v. Best thing to do is test drive a bog standard valver and G60 and go from their. I see you're 19 so insurance may be a prob on a tuned G60 (even standard for that matter) or not, depending on how you're pockets are lined.

Oh i dunno, i could see myself popping to Asda's in it!

It could be crop circles of the car world 0X

I agree with the above. Loads of folk on here have used daves16v repair kits and have nothing but good things to say. Thats the route i'll be taking when mine eventually throw their hands in.