mic_VR

Say what you think Kev! :lol: Having my 263 cams done this weekend, I'm sure the drive home won't be very fuel friendly...

looks like thermostat housing to me if it's in that area. Do a search, loads of people have had it and its a pretty easy fix.

Cheers mate, watch this space on the wheels :wink:

As requested, more to come (oh and the pads are now redstuffs :wink: )

Oh and thanks to everyone for all the help/advice etc etc. All much appreciated :salute:

Well I've just picked the car up from my parents and driven the 35 miles back to Cambridge and it would appear my friend was just trying to wind me up as the brakes feel great and I can only guess they'll be even better once bedded in. So it would appear the professionals knew best after all! :lol: I've still got a squeal on the rears but I think I need to setup my rear bias valve correctly at some point, feels ok and brakes nice and straight. Taking it for a run to Toads and back at the weekend so they should be fully bedded in by then and I'll feedback on how they're doing and hopefully i'll get the time to do a little write up :wink:

I think that from now on I'll be going for both a no. 1 and 2 before driving my car to ensure I weigh as little as possible and so I'm getting maximum acceleration! :wink:

Surely the only effect would be the lower weight if you're not carrying as much fuel? 70 litres of fuel should weight 70kg, so at a quarter full you're only carrying around 17.5 kg of fuel, so the difference in weight is probably equal to having an 8 st person in the car with you. I wouldn't be surprised if it does feel slightly more responsive. edit - the good Dr got in there first!

I think It'll be called heavy-right-foot-itis mate, now you're got all this power! :wink:

Well my dad got it back from the garage this evening and apparently it 'ok' but not perfect. Great, that'll help as I'm hurtling towards the kid thats just stepped out from behind a car! :mad2: So what's next? as oxfordpaul has suggested I guess the next step is seeing if it's the mastercylinder..... if it is that it was fine saturday morning when I started.... :( Going to pick the car up tomorrow night so I'll be able to tell just how bad it is then and I'll have to make the decision as to whether I'm happy driving it around or not. Can the mastercylinder be repaired or is it a new item??

For the 288's from a mk3, which use the 54mm ATE calipers, you need this kit Caliper repair kit - 54mm I've used these guys recently for my own brakes and they were really helpful and the stuff was sent same day 1st class.

Right, well having spent about 2.5 hours trying to bleed this car again this evening I now have 'some' brakes. The bite and stop the car ok ish but there is still loads of travel in the pedal and I certainly don't want to drive it to far like this. :( So my next plan is to leave it for a few days with a vw specialist in northampton owned by a friend of mine and he is going to have a look at it using the proper vw pressure bleeder. Don't worry Dom, Dangers my middle name! 8)

Right I'm off home to try bleeding this car again, hopefully for the last time! :) 3corsameal, I'll be doing a whole write up for the 288 conversion and mk4 rear conversion with part numbers etc.... if they'll let me! But basically mine are mk3 golf calipers and I got plain brembo discs from gsf for £28+vat each and some Redstuff pads :D Dinkus, looking forward to our weekend exploits. Think I've got everything but hopefully I'll be speaking to Toad later just to confirm exactly what we need, then I'll be in touch if needs be. Lastly, just rolling things around in my mind, i've been bleeding the ABS and master cylinders just using the ezibleed.... should i be pumping the peddle as well? (this is the worst car I've ever bled! :lol: )

So basically it looks like I've been a bit to fluffy with my bleeding? Need to get the ezibleed kit on and give the pedal a good pump? The corrado likes it rough eh! :? Also looks like my bias valve is currently in the closed position....... bum! :| And don't worry Toad, I'll be there with bells on. Cheers for the info guys, I'll let you know how it goes tonight. :notworthy:

Right I've finally got off my backside and spent the weekend fitting my 288's and mk4 rear (goodridges all round no less :wink: ) Everything is on, and all appears to be working fine except the brake peddle travels all the way to the floor when you try to brake. As such I've had to abandon it at my parents place as I need to be at work tomorrow and I thought I'd pic the brains of you lovely people. Basically it feels like the system is full of air but I've bled the system TWICE today, Firstly using the usual method with an ezibleed kit and the method recommended in the Bentley manual. A few bubbles of air but then just clear fluid (passed over 2 litres of Dot 4 through the system) I have also bled the abs and master cylinder to no effect. Then, having spoken to Mr Supercharged, I also rebled the system with the handbrake unattached and using a higher pressure on the ezibleed kit. A bit more air, couple of large bubbles, and the peddle felt nice and firm. But as soon as the engine is running I've got hardly any braking. Basically, anyone got any ideas?? Cheers, Mic p.s. Anyone know what position the rear bias valve should be in when it is completely open??

I'm sure there is a p'chop of mrbeige's car with a camo paintjob. If I have the nuts I'd love to do something camo to my car.

My techtonics system only weighs 9kg (compared to the 21kg of the standard system!) so I've stuck with the original hangers and I've put some cable ties round the hangers as people before have suggested. No knocking what-so-ever. :D

Lucky devil! Never been in a DBS but been in a Vanquish and V8 Vantage. All very very awesome cars.

For those wanting replacment calliper seals etc try here http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/ I know they're Volvo suppliers but the ATE, Girling and Lucas callipers are the same and this company were on the money for service, rang at 1pm ish and just had a phonecall to say the parts will be with me first thing tomorrow. :D

Yeah but Mr Yandards post earlier on shows that the VR had 2 different spring plates. The smaller ones on post 93 cars, which is what I had originally, and the wider 105mm one on the pre 93 VR's. Or that is my understanding....... First thing I need to do is get it all apart to see what it actually is.

nice one mate, and in your first pic you can clearly see 54 stamped on the calliper... doh! how did i miss that on mine? :cuckoo: Repair kits now ordered. :D

Cheers for all the info guys, I'm going to take the whole lot off on sunday and see what need to be replaced or adjusted. At least I've got all the possible info now! :lol: Reading down the thread, and having a quick look at the invoices for the parts, I think I've put it together with the early dome shape spring plates and the late VR top mounts. So easiest fix will probably be to see about changing the spring plates and keeping the late top mounts, although I might now have buggered up the bearings...... Corrado ownership.... gotta love it! :salute:

Question for all those with the 288 or 312 front brake upgrade using the callipers from the late mk3 golf (ATE callipers?) Does anyone know what the piston seal size should be? I'm refurbing mine at the moment but have two options for the new seals, 54mm and 57mm. I've measured the actual piston and it appears to be about 54mm diameter so Ithought that would be the logical size but ....... I'm also doing my rears (mk4 type) and the pistons on those are about 38mm but the seal is 40mm and the piston actually has 40mm stamped on it whereas the mk3 pistons don't have anything stamped on it...... Any help much appreciated as usual. :notworthy: *edit* now a bleeding problem! :norty: :grin:

Good response, I've got the same setup that you used first time...... Unfortunately I've not got the money to change the springs so can I just use the early mounts with the early spring plates I've got?

sorry guys I know this topic has been thrown around a bit but I've got bit of a problem with my front top mounts about 4 months ago I swapped from standard to weitec gt suspension, changing the top mounts and spring caps as recommended as I've got a late VR6. Problem is that I'm now getting a 'clunking' sound when turning left/right which I think is the top mounts binding on the spring plates and just making a horrible noise. :( I ordered the mounts and plates from G-werks, who were very helpful, but thinking back the mounts they sent were the 2 piece (mount and bearing) mounts and reading through other peoples posts this doesn't seem right. Now my etka only lists one mount for all the VR's but two different types of spring plates, so am I meant to be using a specific spring plate or do I need to use the earlier one piece mount from a G60 or something? :shrug: All help much appreciated as I'm trying to get all my suspension/handling issues sorted before I go on the Karmann trip so I want to order the correct parts asap... Phew! sorry for the long winded post! :D