mic_VR

just thought I'd post this pic as it made me laugh! Weird thing was, I was actually sat in the carpark at my local VW dealer at the time when I noticed it :lol: :lol:

When you say idles low, how low? VR's are meant to idle at about 650-700rpm, which does seem low when compared to most cars but I'd say if it isn't hunting or stalling then leave well alone. And I wouldn't touch any of the idle screws as it's the ecu that controls the idle and you may and up having more problems. Have done pretty much what you've done (ie.. cleaning the MAF, ISV and checked the damper pot etc) my VR is running a million times better. So good infact that yesterday on a trip from cambridge to lakeside ikea and back, about 180miles @ 75mph, I managed to average 34.5mpg! :D

Well done mate, sounds like a fine week of work. I'm afraid in at the deep end seems to be the way with all these cars. I've got rear bushes to do at some point and really not looking forward to it! :( But sounds like you'll be the man to ask when the rest of us do this stuff now! :lol: :lol:

Getting the ISV off is easy, and it's straight forward to clean. Just be careful when removing the piping as it's easy to break the damper box. Oh and make sure you've got some new hose clips handy as if the originals are on there you'll have to break those off.

vr6banana, anymore news/updates on this? Can we expect to see you at a few shows over the summer? 8)

Ok one for the turbo'd guys. My sisters boyfriend has offered me the turbo off his '93 Subaru Impreza STi, as he's fitting a bigger one but he's not sure what type/size the old one is. Does anyone know what it'll be and more importantly whether i'll be able to use it to turbo a VR? Just the idea of having a turbo'd vr is making me weak at the knees! :lol: :lol:

It's ok, I'll just drive sedately when she's in it! She's more likely to ask what the whooshing noise is :lol: :lol: Having had a look at the airbox lid it looks pretty clean so as you say that's obviously not the issue, and I haven't oiled it yet as its only done about 2000 miles since new on the car. Guess it's back to just a waiting game now to see if it starts all over and in the meantime saving up for that 'selection of parts'

Jim I must admit the first time it happened I thought it was definitely the ISV, but having cleaned it and checked it all seems to be working correctly on that front. cheesewire so you don't think the filter could be an issue? I was very surprised at how well it ran last night after simply cleaning out the MAF with contact cleaner, literally it seems to be completely cured. It was a good long run, fairly spirited in places, and it didn't miss a beat. Although if it does come back I might have to quote you to my girlfriend as a good arguement for going down the turbo'd/stand alone route! :lol: :lol:

Ok, following my day of cleaning the MAF and all the connectors/plugs etc yesterday I took it out for a late night run last night to make sure I got some open roads and low and behold it "appears" to be cured! :D So it seems it was MAF related and the contact cleaner (£2.70 for maplins) has cleaned it up a treat but I'm trying to figure out what caused it in the first place as the MAF is supposed to be heated to 200C for a second as soon as you turn off the engine, this is meant to burn off all the crap etc And the only suggestion is the fact that I'm running a jetex panel filter which is coated with oil, rather than a normal paper one. I'm also thinking that 200C might not be enough to get oil off and thats why it's got worse over time as small oil particles have been sucked off the filter by the awesome power of the V6? :lol: Today i'm off to buy a normal filter, re-clean the MAF and see what difference that makes. Out of interest how many of you are running induction kits/aftermarket filters and suffering from stalling problems??

I've got the same wire loose on my C as well. No idea what it's for but it's never been connected to anything by the looks of it! :? As for the fan problem, not really sure other than suggesting cleaning all the electrical connections (Fan, Senders etc) that might have had water splashed on it during the housing change. Then, and I know you're not going to want to hear this but...... Senders are: Yellow 4 pin - Temp Gauge and aux water pump... which you've changed Blue 2 pin - Engine Control... which you've changed Black/Green 2 pin - 3 Stage fan....... which is the only one you haven't changed?.... :mad: Sorry dude.

Interesting. Which one is the PCV breather? Is it the one that goes from the rocker cover to the air intake pipe? UPDATE: Have now changed the blue temp sender (no difference) and cleaned up the MAF, which I've not yet tried out on a run but it appears to be working as when I unplug it whilst the engine is running it just dies straight away. A few more things I've noticed now, it only seems to do it when it's warm but it also only appears to happen when the car is actually moving. After I changed the sender today I let it run up to temp until the fan kicked in and all seemed fine, no hunting no stalling and a constant 650-680rpm. So took it out for a run and almost instantly it started playing up, nursed it back home with a bit of swearing and once it's all parked up it idles fine. Rev'ed it up and let off the throttle really quickly and I'm getting a little pop from the exhaust, but nothing major, and it didn't stall/hunt once. Very odd and running out of options..... :(

Ok today I got a new blue temp sender and some contact cleaner. Going to have a go at replacing the sender, cleaning up the MAF and the lambda. Other than that... I'm stuffed.... Any one in Cambridge got VAG-com and want to come round mine to see what error codes it's throwing out? :?

Well reluctantly I'm gonna have to open this thread back up because the car is at it again :( This time not only is it stalling when slowing down, the revs are constantly hunting even with your foot on the gas slightly! Damn thing is driving me insane! :mad: So once again, anybody got any ideas on what I should check/replace/smash etc. So far i've... Cleaned the ISV and Throttle body and all associated pipework. Replaced and checked the fuel filter/system (although I'm not 100% sure on the condition of the fuel pump) and checked all the water/oil leak factors, it's not using any water and very little oil. The other weird thing is that I'm still getting 30+mpg so when out on the road it can't be running that bad can it?

Yep the crack pipe (long pipe across the front of the engine) should have a rubber O-ring that the thermostat housing seals onto when you push it all back together. It should be a pretty tight fit so if it was easy to push the two back together I'd check the condition of that seal.

Black is the instrument readout I think, blue one is the one that if knackered throws the ecu out and is worth changing. Have you checked for cracks in all the hoses? The rubber gets man handled a bit during the replacement of the housing and you could have a small split?

Hey Andy you are more than welcome sir! Even with a write it is still a pain of a job but glad it was worth it and that you found the issue. I had a crack in my coilpack that I found when I did mine, I just got some araldite on it and it's still working perfectly. :D

Ok I'm in to!

I had mine do that when I flushed the coolant system a few weeks ago. Do you have the correct coolant mixture? I drained mine, flushed through with plain water, then refilled with coolant mixture. When it only had water in it it wouldn't register properly and just kept flashing. Once the correct coolant mixture was in there it stopped straight away.

Try this thread..... helped me loads. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40503

Only one thing you can say to that........... Nice! :notworthy:

Nice bit of kit there, looked at one of these when I was after my C but it was way out of my price range at the time. Seriously quick in standard form though so as Cnut, said yours must shift!

Congrats Nikki, thats one hell of a story behind that car! You should be well chuffed with yourself and rightly so in my books. Well done.

Critical_Mass, dude you have PM! :lol:

well as long as the tubing that was there wasn't leaking air then I don't think it would run badly. Its causing problems on my car because the engine isn't able to maintain the air pressure it needs. It's like if you start the car with the oil filler cap loose/off the engine, the car starts but tries to stall straight away unless you've got the throttle open and even then it'll run really rough. I am hoping to get a new valve and the pipework for it over the next few weeks so that I can clean up all the air intake and throttle body, which at the moment I can't do because its too badly damaged and I know if I take it off it'll never go back on! Is yours running rough at the moment? If not i'd be interested to see a pic of your setup to see if I can re-arrange mine.

Critical_Mass, I think some people just remove the pipe as it's pretty brittle in places and is easily damaged but TBH I would love to know what the best answer is for this because my VR is still not running right and I don't think having the broken tubing glued together as I have at the moment is helping matters. Anyone out there know what is the best solution? Replace vs Remove....... Oh and I've now replaced the ISV damper box (2nd pic) and put the leads on the holders in the correct layout (sorry Therapor)