mikkijayne

Afaik they are the same, just not very common in the saloons.

No. Aftermarket cat 1 alarms are a waste of time IMO. They just add complication and messy wiring, go off when you don't want them to, and are ignored by everyone anyway. Tbh aftermarket immobilisers are questionable enough, since the fitters usually do a complete hack-job on the wiring, but you don't usually have a choice because of insurance. Pick a decent brand, and if you can go to a fitter that you trust. Clifford Virtualkey is quite good because it uses an RFID transponder like the factory immo's do so there's no messing around with stupid extra plugs before you start the car. My solution these days is to swap in an engine that has a built in transponder immobiliser :D

The 16V as a donor is six v half a dozen. Yeah its not mechanically or electrically as good as later cars, but it is a balance of the crappiest engine that you don't mind ripping out and the least valuable model to defile with an engine swap ;) IMO its easier to change the few things on an early car to suit a swap than it is to justify the extra cost of using a later one, especially if you already have the car :cat:

I'm about to do an AGU conversion on a 16V for the exact same reason. Its totally not worth building up a 16VT for a DD when 1.8Ts are so cheap.

Normally the tach on a mk4 would come from the ECU. On a 16V it is taken from the - side of the coil, but that is a very different signal to the ECU tach. I would be hesitant to simply hook that up in case it kills the clocks, unless you can find firsthand info from someone else who has tried it. It may be necessary to run a converter to condition the signal to make it suitable for the later clocks.

The ignition shouldn't be that far advanced. Is it not pinking like mad? Like Carrots said, check the cam timing is right, and then get a strobe on it to set the ignition timing properly :)

I've seen this on The Car Lounge. Most of those places are nicer than my house! Some awesome workspaces there, but price tags to match.

Also beware there are very few versions that work on Windows 7 64-bit. The hardlock drivers don't work on 64-bit, so the only versions which work are ones that have had the hardlock code removed, rather than bypassed. If you are on Win7 64-bit send me a PM and I will do a copy of mine for you :cat:

Yeah I know. Its still sad though. I have to scrap one of mine but I just can't bring myself to do it :(

Those are some pretty sad figures :( 1000 16Vs scrapped in 4 years! Thats one every weekday.

The gap to the arch will be larger since the wheel is smaller. It will just be closer to the ground, which may or may not be a problem depending on what sort of lift / ramp the garage has.

She ;) And yes, I need 16:9 aspect ratio to fit the double-din slot in the dash.

A BMW with no dipstick, so you have no choice but to pay the dealer £100 for 7 minutes work because you can't check the oil level without a computer? No thanks

A VR6 one should fit the ABF bracket but the pulley will need to be swapped. Mk3 TDI is a direct fit, or an 8V with AC as they both use the ABF bracket.

Shame its 4:3 cos I'm looking for an 8" touch screen at the moment. Got to be widescreen to fit in my dash though. Good luck with the auction :cat:

The bottom ball joint doesn't make a huge amount of difference to the camber - certainly not enough to go positive where it was negative. I'd loosen the three bolts and slide it as far out as it can go and see how it looks. The two bolts on the struts make far more difference.

Easy then - billinjah and VW_OwneR_85 just need to swap front hub flanges, outer CV joints and rear discs :D

What was wrong with that for it to be broken? I want to beat people who break perfectly decent 'rados! Welcome to the Corrado Rescue Society :cat:

Exactly this. If you don't want to muck about changing the entire front suspension setup just grab some hub flanges and outer CVs from a Corrado VR6 or mk3 GTI / VR6 and press them in to your 16V hub with new bearings. Re-drill the discs and you're good to go. If you have ABS then you will need to fit the 16V sensor rings to the 5-bolt flanges, which will require a little drilling and tapping but its fairly simple. If you don't have ABS then just bin the rings. I'd rather use good 2nd hand flanges than buy new btw. There are new 'Topran' ones advertised on fleabay for cheap, and there is a reason - they are garbage. Good luck :cat:

Nice one :) Glad it's sorted :cat:

I'd machine the wheels to suit. Pretty easy for a decent machine shop, and then you have no worries about custom bits on the car.

Well the one I used had it, but I cut it off cos its pointless ;) That was a 4-cyl tho. No idea if the VR6 uses it or not?

Chuck another engine in it :)

Swapping the subframe is a couple of hours work. I had to do it on my 16V cos it rusted through, and yes the rack is the hardest part because of those stupid captive bolts. I found it was easier to disconnect the rack from the column so I could drop it enough to get access to the bolts, but left the tie rods and hoses connected. As long as you support the engine its then only half a dozen bolts and its out. If you can't find a Corrado VR6 one then you can use a mk3 subframe instead. The only difference is in the arms that go back from the ARB mounts on to the floorpan. They are longer on the mk3 so you need to cut them down and drill a couple of holes to match the Corrado one. Personally I would just chuck another subframe on, but then I suck at drilling straight :D

Very very wrong! If the wishbone pulls off the remains of the bolt it will rip the driveshaft out of the CV joint, likely rip the ARB out of the wishbone or bend it, , the wheel will move back in the arch and trash the bodywork, you will lose steering on that side and probably crash. Very bad things will happen.