mikkijayne

Have you tried Brentacre? They have served me very well for the last few years :)

No 1.8T is 81, same as KR & PL. The ABF is 82.5, same as 2E & ADY. ---------- Post added at 10:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:25 AM ---------- Btw, if you put a KR head on a 2E block I'm pretty sure you end up with 9:1 CR or thereabouts, which is reasonable for a turbo setup :) You might need 9A pistons for that ^, but if you are buying forged anyway you can buy pistons to suit a turbo ABF which is effectively what that is.

Have you fitted the ECU relay (109)? Its not used on the KR, but is needed for the ABF. Can't remember the position - top row though.

I reckon its pretty even how much you can get out of either of them tbh. The bottom ends are very similar - AEB and KR even share the same rods. 1.8T is just a cheaper starting point since it comes with a turbo and decent management already ;)

Yeah to be fair you can pick up a 1.8T for less than the price of a Megasquirt :) Just got a complete AGU for a friend for £150 :D

Probably why it went for £205 then ;)

Megasquirt is a fraction of the price of most standalones, and is equally as capable for a 16VT. You could have that running for £250 - £300 if you shop around and can build it yourself, which is about the same as having the G60 Digifant remapped. You could even run it on AEB 1.8T management, which is much more suited to the task and can be remapped via OBDII. You can pick those up from the scrappers for peanuts, and if you find one with keys you can even keep the transponder immobiliser which is a nice security feature ;) Conventional standalone is the last thing I would pick for a project like this, but then I'm like that :D

90A is the biggest standard model that will fit a 16V. Got a spare kicking about for cheap if you need it :)

Wow will a G60 actually pull a TDI box then? How modified does it need to be?

If you're getting new pistons and rods why not just use the 16V block? The G60 block just makes it complicated since you have to swap the intermediate shaft, crank sprocket, etc. Or, get a 2E 2.0 block from a mk3 (cos they are cheap as dirt) and put the 16V head on that? Or build a turbo ABF? The G60 block (and G60 pistons) with 16V head yields about 6:1, so you are going to need to put 16V turbo pistons in there rather than G60 ones.

£80 a ticket!!! WTF? Thats probably why its not popular! Need to spend the money on parts ;)

Pretty easy: Indicators - splice the wires from the cluster harness in to the black/white & black/green coming from the back of the fusebox. The digital cluster harness should have a dedicated connector for this. Speedo you need to wire in the VSS from the gearbox. The 20V harness ought to have the connector for the VSS, so find the blue/white wire coming in to the car from the engine harness and connect that up to the VSS input on the cluster. The cluster will condition the signal and send it out to the spoiler, etc and drive the speedo. The coolant light uses a special relay for the mech cluster but direct in to the digi one. Remove the relay and re-pin the plug on the fusebox where the sender wire comes in from where it is on the mech car to where it should be on the digi one. This thread on VWVortex will tell you everything you need to know :)

Huh? Why do you say that? The VP TDI from the B4 is a straight bolt-in to any Corrado - the subframe doesn't matter at all. I would say the G60 is the best donor since the intercooler is already there. VR6 and G60 the PAS bottle is out of the way of the intercooler pipework, as its behind the battery as opposed to the 16V where it is on the chassis leg. Also VR6 and G60 have the right radiator setup to clear the pipework. The 16V is probably the least preferable, but thats what I used for mine since its what I had. I just fitted the G60 intercooler, PAS bottle and radiator.

The computer came up with it? Thats BS - the computer comes up with what they tell it! I thought it sounded a bit suss. The computer will give them a list of common or pre-programmed (by Vosa) faults that they can select from for each different area (lighting, suspension, etc etc), or they can put in their own description. They have obviously seen (or imagined) something wrong and selected a description which has little, if anything, in common with what the problem is. If the hazards are all flashing together, both lights in the dash are flashing, and they continue to behave in the same way with ignition on or off then they should pass. I would call the garage and ask to speak to the person who tested it and ask them to explain exactly what is wrong. If they can't explain then take the car back and ask them to show you exactly what it is doing that it shouldn't, then report back and we can fault-find it :)

No, you have to remove it from the car to get to the clips that hold the plastic part to the frame. Its only 4 extra bolts to take the whole thing off anyway ;)

Do they mean they are flashing from side to side rather than all at the same time? Change the column stalk I think.

I've got a solid Renault Clio diesel available for £500 if you want a cheap work car ;)

I drove an 850R once. I'm sure the interior design alone sucked a good 5-10 years out of me Quilted alcantara! Srsly!

I'm sure if you were on the way to get new ones fitted you would be ok ;) Try Kumho KU31 - they are outstanding for a budget tyre. Not as grippy or long-lasting as a premium tyre, but for the price they are light years ahead of cheap tat like Nangang and Federal. I paid £50 a corner for 205 40 17 and they'll probably do about 20K on the Corrado. ---------- Post added at 04:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:56 PM ---------- Oh and definitely if they are like that on both edges. Well, that or you have Quattro :D

TDI swap the Corrado! Its easy and cheap and you can get an easy 50mpg from them :D Have you read Purple Tom's thread? With a few tweaks the TDI can be as quick as a G60, and you already have the intercooler in place. If you find the right donor and prep properly this swap can almost be done in a weekend :D

I didn't read it like that at all so don't worry about it :D Stock diesels can be very dull indeed, but modified ones can be a lot more fun than people think. Just thought I'd throw it in for consideration ;)

Looking at the comparison between front and rear I would say they would fail an MoT, therefore not legal. Looks like you have too much toe-in, hence scrubbing the outer edge off.

You can get a decent amount of power from the 1.9TDI ;) 180hp / 250tq is pretty simple and that makes quite a quick car. Find a sport quattro with decent spec and you can have fast and frugal :) Or, find an S4 with dead turbos, throw the V6 away and stick a 4.2 V8 in there instead :D It fits perfectly and looks almost factory, and you can pick up everything to convert it for less than the price of a pair of K04s... ---------- Post added at 02:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:16 PM ---------- Same as a Corrado - its reliable if you keep up with the maintenance and are aware of the design flaws ;)

The turbos cause problems, probably due to being stuffed in such a small space. You have to remove the engine and gearbox to change them, so a lot of the US guys upgrade them to K04s while they are out. Not a cheap job, but gives a nice power boost with a remap. The bottom end on the 2.7T is built like a battleship so it pretty indestructable. Just a shame its so damn heavy! Other than that its pretty much just an A4, so it will eat tyres and control arms, especially if you lower it. Have you looked on Fourtitude? (VWVortex's Audi site) They have a subforum for the B5 S4 & RS4 which should give you a good idea of common issues with them :) Fourtitude B5 S4 & RS4 Forum

Definitely :D