mikkijayne

Ryan? Lol @ the coincidence :) Mine is from a facelift B5, but the B6 is much the same size so it ought to fit the same. Its not easy but it is doable. I took all the photos of the V8 down, but Ryan Miller's is here: http://www.dubbedbyrma.com/s4rodo_gallery A very nice piece of work, that one ^. But, he grafted the front end of an S4 in to the Corrado shell!

Have you changed the ignition switch yet? The crank sensor is 021 906 433A. The seal for it is 021 906 445.

It does just fit. I have one in my V8 Corrado, and Ryan Miller has one in his S4 Quattro Corrado too. I think we both came up with the idea at roughly the same time, but on opposite sides of the atlantic! I hate you for figuring this out before I finished my car m'kay? ;) Given that I've been building mine for 2 years though I can't really complain :(

Got mine yesterday specifically for Forza :) Got to learn to drive it though - never had a console before and just can't get the hang of braking with my left finger I need a steering wheel and pedals! :cat:

Nice!

When you see it you will realise that it is not feasible to do in the same fashion as the non-VR6 ones. Because it is at an angle if you extend it you will completely change the geometry and also move the hub inboard. Neither of those would work. The first one as it doesn't move the ball joint, only the wishbone, and thats not the problem. You need to move the balljoint relative to the wheel bearing. BJEs do exactly that by putting distance between the ball and the bottom of the hub. The second one is close, but it would push the hub inboard as above. The only way I can think of to do this would be to create a spacer piece which would allow you to fit a G60 balljoint to a VR6 hub, but it would be a hellacious thing to machine, and likely difficult to make strong enough. You could keep the geometry right like that though. For Boost Monkey:

So they cut off the lower balljoint mount and weld it back on lower then. A friend of mine made some mk2 hubs like this a few years ago. Not difficult to do if you can weld properly ;)

I believe either TT or R32 has the bearing higher up in the hub compared to stock ones to lower the car without changing the geometry. I've seen a picture of them on Vortex somewhere...

357 721 465A - it was £36 when I bought one a couple of years ago, but has probably gone up since. I think someone in the US makes a stainless one, but its not going to be less than £36.

Meh. The Polo G40 used the same filter as all the other Polo engines, so the extra-filtery G60 argument is null and void anyway - its just VW being VW. I don't really care since I only have diesels or V8s anyway ---------- Post added at 11:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:23 PM ---------- Ok I figured it out - the G40 uses an ordinary filter because the engine tends to melt before the charger wears out, whereas the G60 is a bit more robust and its usually the charger that explodes before the engine does :D

Huh so its a more filtery filter then. Well the TDI one is even more filtery so if it'll fit I'd use that instead :) I'll bet a whole pound that the aftermarket lists exactly the same filter for the G60 as everything else

Whats so special about the G60 one? It has a different number to all the others used in the 4-cyl Corrados, which is odd. 037 115 561 for the G60, rather than 06A 115 561B which is used on everything from mk2s right up to A3, A4, A6, B5 Passat etc. Personally I would just use the standard 06A filter on it. If you want a bit more capacity then the TDI one also fits the bracket - its the same height but larger diameter. 06A 115 561E - it was also used on the AEB 1.8T to prevent sludging and is

Not in a KR ;) All thats under there is a black power connector, and if he plugged his computer in to that it would have blown up. The white data connector is missing on the KR. ABS cars have a data connector for the ABS ECU but I think thats blue iirc. Its on hold while I build a garage. I need to turn it over to reinforce the floorpan to take all the extra weight of the drivetrain, and that isn't practical on an open driveway :( Hopefully I'll be able to get back under way next year. For the record the injector seals are 035 133 557A, about £1.60 each from the dealer. Don't ever buy rubber components from GSF - the quality is ****. Euro Car Parts are fine though.

Really? The 'ECU', which has no diagnostic capability, in a car which doesn't even have a diagnostic port? Not surprised its not showing any faults... It sounds like he doesn't know what he's talking about tbh. I've run K-jet cars for years and never had a bad metering head. Its about the simplest piece of machinery on the whole car! Give it a good blast with carb cleaner and leave it alone. The ignition module is similarly simple -never had a bad one of those either. Like Wullie said, its likely a vacuum leak - they are the bane of the K-jet car since the hoses are all 20 years old and falling to bits. I had a starting and idling problem on mine for ages and it turned out to be injector seals! Pence from the dealer and easy to change, but a complete bugger to track down. I would check the breather hoses and pipes under the manifold, and the vacuum hoses round the throttle body. Then run some injector cleaner through it and change the injector seals. Good luck :)

Dead easy. Just make sure you take your time, keep everything nice and clean and have the proper tools available (circlip pliers etc). Pretty simply to mildly port it while its open if you have a dremel or something similar :)

Why are you messing with shifter towers? Just swap the cables from the mk3 in to the Corrado shift box. Miles easier, and you can do a short shift while you're at it. I would think performance in 5th is pretty dire with such high ratios unless you have a ton of horsepower.

You can buy a complete working Corrado for £400!

It could be the solid lines going in to the rack. They rust rather badly so thats the first place I'd check. Hit it with a pressure washer to clean it up so that you can see where the leak is, or take it to a jet wash. If it is the lines then you can use mk3 lines as replacements, as they are easier to find and usually in better condition. They need a little modification to fit, but its quite simple. There is a seal kit listed in Etka so you could rebuild it if it is the rack itself thats leaking, but you do need to make some special tools to do it. If you want to replace it then mk2 is a direct fit. Mk3 and Corrado VR6 will also fit but you need the UJ from the bottom of the column as the splines on the rack are different. If you get the rack off a plus suspension (5-bolt) car then you will need to use your G60 tie rods as the plus ones are longer. :)

Not a direct fit. The VR rack has a different spline on the input shaft so to swap you would need to change the UJ at the bottom of the column as well.

That doesn't make sense - same model, same year, different insurance rate??? I can't see why the later ones would be so much more than the early ones either. There was a minor facelift for 2002 model year (2001 reg), but its just cosmetic. There's nothing that would cost lots more to fix than the early ones. If you're looking at 2.5TDI models (which I'm pretty sure is the only diesel Allroad) then pm me for some very important info on checking the health of the engine :)

It occurs to me that there isn't a big enough market for identical products from two different suppliers like there would be for more modern / popular cars. If you both make different stuff then you both benefit whereas if you compete then you halve the potential sales for both of you.

Spoonfedtuning already produce the rear spoiler, plate surround, front spoiler & a few other bits. No point making the same stuff IMO - you'd be better off making things that SFT don't already do. Wings would be nice, but there is already a feeler thread about those too. RHD interior trim perhaps?

Have you tried GSF? I got one from them for a 1.8 8V mk3 a while back, so they might have the KR one too.

Allegedly yeah ^ Not entirely sure I believe it though since there was never any decent evidence he actually had them. I think the rear lights are from an Audi 80 Avant:

They aren't a pattern parts place like GSF or ECP who only have certain things available that the aftermarket happen to make - they are VAGs official trade outlet. If its still available from VW then TPS can get it. But, its no use at all asking them for specific items for the Corrado - its too old and they don't know (or care) about the old stuff. They are there to service the motor trade who mostly deal with modern stuff. The best way is to find the part number yourself and give that to them. Go here: http://www.wagenstad.com/index.php?model=cor for the parts catalogue. :)