leon263

I have a mate who totally removed the ABS from a G60 due to a faulty pump. Obviously there was a lot of re-plumbing of the brake lines involved. When he went to MOT he was failed due to the sensors, wiring etc still being in situ albeit redundant. When he removed all the original bits and pieces it passed with no problem.

Hi guys. My 93 VR6 has been suffering from a constantly illuminated ABS warning light for a couple of weeks now. Vag Com suggests a problem with the front offside speed sensor. Can any-one give me a guide as to removal/ replacement of the sensor. I am assuming this is going to require some brute force as it will have been in there for 18 years. Finally I have priced one with TPS for £60. Is this par for the course or can any-one suggest a cheaper source. Many thanks for any suggestions

I live in Bangor and have my VR6 insured with Footman James on a limited milage policy (3000 per annum) for around £250. Try Campbells in Coleraine for a classic quote, a lot of GTINI members use them with good results. Try to use a broker or company that specialises in Classic insurance as opposed to the big companies. Good luck.

16x7 all round with 35mm adapters. The Porsche wheels have an off-set of 65mm so they are ET30 with the adapters. Absolutely no problem with rubbing even when the car is lowered.

Afraid not, it was a few years back and the car has now gone too. My son's a metal worker/ spray painter in a body shop so it was pretty much second nature to him. The result was pretty special but it was very time consuming and the body shop skills certainly helped.

We did a smooth dash conversion on a Polo project a few years ago with excellent results. Basically you want to get rid of as much of the grain on the plastic as possible using sanding discs. Start with around 240 grit and work your way down to 600 grit. Stage 2 is to plastic prime the plastic to ensure that primer and paint will stick. Stage 3 is to spray the plastic with several coats of high build primer. Stage 4 is to guide coat and flat the primer with various grades of wet and dry. Start with around 600 and finish off with 1000 grade paper. Stage 5 is colour and lacquer which will need to be de-nibbed and polished to achieve a finish comparable with your exterior bodywork. This is probably not what you wanted to hear but If you want a flawless smooth finish that's the way to go. Like everything else, the final result will reflect the time and prep you have put in.

PayPal details forwarded by PM Pete.

Genuine E marked Hella. No damage and the seals are perfect ...............£8 posted.

G60 badge on DubForce and also on gtini.com http://www.dubforce.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=21489 http://www.gtini.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=11675

Hi mate, I've used Genesis amps for years and have quite a few spare grub screws in my collection of bits. If you let me know which terminal they are for and the size of the allen key that fits them I should be able to help.

Check out the photo below. I removed this from a shagged VR6 gear knob and as you can see it is totally unmarked. You are welcome to it if it's any good to you. Lever the old one out using a fine flat blade screwdriver, it's only held in by a piece of double sided tape, and stick the new one into position. PM me your name and address for a belated Christmas present !

Some older Mercs used M12x1.5 wheel bolts whereas the modern VAG cars use M14x1.5 bolts. I guess you have got an old set of wheels with M12 holes and bolts which is why the bolts do not fit the adapters and the M14 bolts do not go through the wheels. The simple solution is to have the holes in the wheels opened out to fit the M14 bolts which will fit the adapters. Be sure to use bolts with the correct shape of seat to match the holes in the wheels.

Just a thought here guys, it might be worth checking the calipers before going to the hassle and expense of replacing cables. The problem as described at the start of the thread sounds very familiar and in my case it is always the operating mechanism on the caliper that has siezed as opposed to the cable. If you take the wheel off you should be able to see the hand brake operating arm on the back of the caliper. It is held onto a shaft in the caliper by a nut at the pivot end. There is a fork at the opposite end of the arm into which the nipple on the end of the cable locates. If there is a couple of cms of cable protruding through the fork and if the nipple is not located in the fork when the handbrake is in the off position then the problem is with the caliper which has siezed in the 'on' position. I have found that if I soak the whole area in WD40, leave it for a few minutes and then put a ring spanner onto the nut that I can work the arm back and forward until it moves freely and the nipple locates in the fork as it should. There is very little chance of unscrewing the nut as it will be well siezed. I reckon the reason that so many members upgrade to Mk4 Golf calipers is that they do not sieze which points to a problem with the original calipers. A shot of WD 40 every couple of weeks and parking the car in gear with the handbrake off seems to work for me.

The S2 wheel on a Corrado would appear to be a non starter. Check out the old thread below. viewtopic.php?f=19&t=29209

I wouldn't even be thinking of trying to make a set if I was you. Have a look in your car, study the shape of the carpets and then think ......... could I do that? They were moulded to fit in the factory and there is no way you will ever get remotely close to an original finish. New carpet sets are unavailable from any source so your best bet would be to place a wanted ad. on the forum. You should be able to pick up a good set for around £50 ish and at least they will fit and not look like a Blue Peter project.

The plastic trim is usually stuck to the glass with several blobs of windscreen bonding. Luckily this stuff never really sets rock hard so if you get one of those plastic stanley knifes with the extending blade you should be able to slip the blade down between the glass and the trim and cut through the bonding to free the trim. Once the trim is off its fairly easy to remove the remaining bonding from the back of the trim and glass. After replacing the leaf filter seal, stick the trim back on with bonding (available from any decent motor factors) and replace the screws.

If it was on a Mk1 Golf then I'm afraid not. Mk 1 golf is small spline, all Corrados are large spline.

Excellent job, I like to see a bit of initiative.

If you PM me your address I'll send you the screw in rubber support thingy for the back of the head unit FOC. They are normally included with the head unit when new.

I've actually been in this car , listened to it and had a real good look round it. Believe me the standard of workmanship is totally awesome and the sound quality is absolutely superb. Not to everybodys taste I agree but perhaps when I tell you that the owner built it to showcase his company, Sound in Motion, capabilities then perhaps things become a little clearer.

My '93 VR6 came with grey leather and carpets and I reckon the grey leather has worn remarkably well. The car is now on 72k and there is virtually no sign of wear. I've also had a G60 with similar miles and black leather and the grey definitely looks fresher. The carpets however are a different story as they show every little mark no matter how careful you are. I got the chance to buy a low mileage set of black carpets and put them in instead of the grey. I wasn't quite sure what to expect but I'm really impressed with how they look so they are staying. I also changed all the grey fasteners etc to complete the tranformation. The photos below were taken primarily to show the black carpet against the grey plastics but yoy can see how fresh the seats still look.

Thank you, that was my reading of the situation. I was just looking for confirmation.

Hi guys. Simple question, am I correct in thinking that all Corrados require a large spline steering wheel boss.

Hi there mate, if you coming to live in N.Ireland then you will be pleasantly surprised at how strong the VW scene is over here and please forget all the horror story crap you have heard ......... it's just not like that. First thing I suggest is that you log onto www.gtini.com and make yourself known. The club meets on the last Sunday afternoon of every month at Corrs Corner. This is a hotel/restaurant/bar about 7 miles north of Belfast. Usually very well attended, depending on the weather of course. The club organise three major shows every year. A huge indoor/outdoor show (Dubshed) in March at the Kings Hall complex in Belfast, a mega outdoor summer show in July at Castlewellan Forest Park about 30 miles south of Belfast which is attended by cars from all over Northern and Southern Ireland and lastly a smaller outdoor show at The Folk and Transport Museum on the outskirts of Belfast in August. I have been attending shows all over the UK for years and I can assure you that you will never have met a more friendly bunch of enthusiasts than the N. Irish. As for servicing repairs etc, you will have no problems. If you need any help, I'll gladly put you in touch with the guys who keep my VR6 up to scratch. As for insurance, I suppose it depends on your annual mileage. My VR6 is on Classic Insurance, limited to 3k per year for around £250. You certainly will not see as many Corrados about over here as on the mainland but we do like our old VWs and you will be blown away by some of them. Looking forward to meeting you ......... keep in touch.