swiftkid

Some people paint the top and leave the underside pretty carbon, on dark cars it looks good but on cars like red it just looks a bit like you've put the wrong colour bonnet on. If there's serious interest in a group buy on bonnet's I may be convinced, seen a few made already and look look really nice!

Few of my mates have owned and built mk2 vr6's in the past, yes they are fast but had mixed opinions of handling. My mate said his handled really well and I don't even think it was wide track, they do spin the wheels pretty easily but that's to be expected really when you don't have 10 tonnes of bonnet weight like the corrado. Regards insurance, 100% declare everything, some companies insure it like you are insuring the mk3 whilst others just declare it as modifications and uprated BHP I think. I wouldn't worry too much about getting parts, if you can find a reg number from the original engine or 1 from the same era you just need know when to use which number plate. You quickly learn whats original and whats not!

I don't blame you, there's a relay in my wiring and I had no idea what it did. Plus once you've got it installed, you then have to mess around setting it up

From memory there is wiring to both door handles, it's 3 wires. You have an earth, an 'open' wire, and a 'close' wire. When you are opening the drivers door on the key is the central locking pump activating? is your boot locking and unlocking? If it is I'd lock/unlock and listen for air leaks around the dash as the central locking vacuum pipe runs from offside rear, along the sills and round the dash. It does get brittle and cracks over time. If the pump doesn't activate on open/close, bridge the 3 wires to see if it's handle or wiring

Yea I'm the same with temps, I'm constantly checking what's going as I've had loads of temp problems over the years. I know what you mean about having the switch available, just personal preference I suppose. My old rado had an override switch on the dash and a couple of times I forgot about it and only realised when it was worryingly hot.

I bought a set of those off ebay and snapped the little tab off the very first time I used it. Straight in the bin, so watch out for cheapo tools

You didn't wire as in left the wire loose? If I were you I'd definitely have that connected up. Stage 3 uses a different sensor so if you have problems on the rad fan sensor it's a failsafe plus if it gets hotter than stage 2 then instead of carrying on and still trying to cool it, it will cut the fan and you won't have any cooling whatsoever

Hi, I've got a CAD drawing of a 9" and 11" fan bracket if its of any help, it's untested as I bought a set off ChrisL instead but happy to send my drawing through

You should just be able to change the fuse, had a quick google and it says it's a 20A fuse but not 100% sure. Fan controller looks different to my VR though, your picture in your profile shows a J reg rado, is it converted? I've never known that fuse to go so maybe check your earths etc. as well

I presume with you running a 1.8t you've already changed to a stubby/cupra master cylinder? I'm just changing mine over at the moment as I've heard it makes quite a difference. Also doing the teves20 as well so hopefully have decent braking after.

You say that they are rare but I've seen quite a few photo's of them going up in flames. The headlight switch is a bad culprit for it and a few other electrical gremlins. I always carry an extinguisher with me There was someone making a bracket to fix an extinguisher at the front underside of the passenger seat a while ago, think a few people might be interested

As I said I'm not very experienced with electrical stuff myself but looking at that diagram you'd end up with stage 2 & stage 3 powering up both fans, is that the intention?

The problem you are going to have if you are wiring up speed 1 to fan 1, speed 2 to fan 2 and speed 3 to both is backfeeding so you'll need diodes. I didn't bother looking into it as I didn't really see the need, the older fans supped soo much power the 3 stage probably just lessened the impact on the battery. The new slimline fans probably draw less power on flat out than the originals did on speed 1 and are 10x quieter anyway. If I was going to wire it up as 3 stage I think you end up using a common ground then: Speed 1 connected to fan 1 Speed 2 connected to fan 2 Speed 3 connected to both but a diode before you meet stages 1 & 2 on each wire I'm not great at explaining but you'll go through the 4 pin plug from controller, T off to go to each fan where you'll add your diodes. I'm sure someone more electrically minded will be able to confirm as I find electrical stuff wizardry.

You can't swap the pins across as they are a different size, ask me how I know... I'll have another look but I'm fairly sure you just de-pin them like normal, although I think the standard durite multi tool is too short from memory

Radiator fan speed 3 is the black sensor in thermostat housing not in the radiator, thats stage 1 & 2 I think. I'd start with the basics, unplug fan & bridge contacts to check 12v on each of the speeds (see million page discussion thread). If they all check out then it's likely your actual fan is packing in. If not maybe try another fan control module as they have been known to pack up, I don't know for sure but you might be able to try any fan controller of that era instead of corrado with scene tax added. The way the system works is that you have 3 x 12v feeds to the fan (stage 1,2 & 3), stage 1 goes through 2 resistors, stage 2 goes through 1 and stage 3 is direct feed.

Its 7M0 973 334 (looks like http://audi.afora.ru/images/Tnrpics/7M0973334.jpg) and comes from VW Sharan's and I think ford galaxy's. I was told at the time I was looking for 1 they were on back order but that was years ago. I got mine from scrapyard, they are on single fan setups as below, I might even have a spare one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-SHARAN-SEAT-ALHAMBRA-FORD-GALAXY-1-9TDI-ENGINE-RADIATOR-COOLING-FAN-COMPLETE/123752373824?hash=item1cd0375e40:g:mYwAAOSwA05czF0W

That's absolutely fantastic news, I just googled the part number to check it was the bit I need and found an old thread I started looking for 1! I can't remember off the top of my head but are these the same for the left hand and right hand side of the radiator as I need both

Few of my mates are going, sadly I ripped apart my corrado so it's in bits, if by some miracle I get it back together before Sunday I'll be there but highly doubt it

Yes it does seem very unusual, I can understand cutting the wire but de-pinning it is a lot of messing. If I remember when I get home I'll take a look at my loom and confirm.

Mine are wired up for flat out on all speeds, it's just my luck to mess with unnecessary resistors and end up setting my car on fire. Someone with a better knowledge will know better

Not so convinced with that theory, G1/3 should go to t68/6 (you can see numbers on the ecu plug). That is your fuel pump trigger wire, so you do need that connected up. Not sure what number the one you are refering to is, here's the wiring diagram: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_V9-6xfgGlINzhhM2IyNmItOWRhZS00MzBkLTk2MTEtNGIyZDFmMDg0NWM2?sort=name&layout=list&start=150&num=50

Nice top tip from when me and my mate refitted some injectors the other day, boil some water and put the seals in, give them a nice clean and refit them to the injectors. They will pop straight in without any grease as they won't be as swelled. Your list sounds about right but I just find once you get cracking you soon just realise what needs to be done. Just make sure to undo the earths at the rear, that always caught me out

I completely missed it as well, would be interested in a little run out if my cars on the road as it's not too far from me. And wouldn't mind a power run as well

It's not unheard of for the bushes to go but the motors are pretty crap anyway. Mine never fully return to the parked position, I did read a while ago that Kev (pianowire/mr bacon etc etc) had changed his motor for an early mk4 (5 wire) motor which are easy to get hold of and cheap and that made quite an improvement. Not sure if he did the full mech or just the motor, something on my list to do.

I'd be inclined to say its a tappet, when I did the chains on mine I took all the tappets out and compressed them all in a vice to flush all the oil out. Soaked them in oil overnight then refitted them. They tap like crazy for about 20 minutes then go absolutely silent.