swiftkid

He still has it, I've asked him about it a couple of times. He's got a very tidy red Corrado R32 as well, can't remember his username but he posts alot on instagram

Have you got a spare set of wheels matt? That would b really useful if he still has a hissy fit. Yea, I paid for the test online and looks like I have to jump through hoops to get my money back so they have 1 more chance. Had a right sod of a night replacing the abs sensor, what makes matters worse is that I will be ripping it out again soon to fit teves20 I have a few sets of wheels but sadly none with legal tyres. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

So hopefully this will see the road again this year, hoping to have it as my wedding car but having some trouble with mot. Mot tester whining about Vin number underneath the scuttle cover, wheels a bit wide etc. Booked back in tomorrow so fingers crossed it will get a pass tomorrow, in the mean time I cleaned it! My collection of parts to fit is just a bit ridiculous now, hopefully get round to working on it soon Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Welcome to the forum! Get some photo's up Sounds like some good luck, much better than my first valver none runner, guy listed it on ebay as alternator and flat battery... the overflowing oil level mixed with water said otherwise.

You need the right ecu for your engine. Ag is the early coilpack (without immobiliser) and cp is the late (with immo). From memory there is a tab on the ag ecu so you can't plug it in, think I cut it off when I bought wrong ecu years ago but then you have a different maf so won't run 100% Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Just so you know, the calipers and carriers are the same as early mk3 golf gti/vr6 and corrado vr6. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I think there's another bolt at the top but from the picture it looks like you've taken out the adjusting bolt. From memory, the 'eyebolt', shown just to the left of the circle, needs slackening off and then the bolt you've removed is the actual tensioner bolt. Once you are happy with the tension, tighten up the nut on the eyebolt. Quite simple yet neat little design

It's been a quite a long time since I did the wiring on mine (r32 but same principle). According to my scribbles, I did pin 1 to g1/4, pin 2 to g1/11 and pin 3 to earth. In my notes I've put that t121/54 needs to go to w1 via the blue junction boxes above the fusebox (blue/white wire with blue plug, I think). G1/4 is the ignition live and g1/11 is dash feed. I think the t121/54 limits the ecu to 4k so as you haven't said anything about that I presume it's already been done Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

That's that r444ms old car I think, saw it a few years ago at gti inters, had a chat with the new owner. It looked well, although for 7k you'd think he would hoover it out and straighten the mats up. I think it's obd2 as well which isn't in the ad Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I've got a portasol gas soldering iron and I use it for everything, I've got about 4 or 5 240v soldering irons of varying sizes but the portasol is just a great all rounder so that gets used most. Loads of different tips available for different jobs and you can refill with lighter fluid. I've recently started using duraseals and they do work fantastic and give a really good joint. Soldering is great but I found on my old rado that the loom physically couldn't be soldered and the wires just became brittle at both ends of the soldered joint so it depends what condition your loom is in.

Hi welcome, the tfsi conversion is something I've considered as they seem to tune so easily and the noise is awesome. From memory the A3 8P rear diff cradle is absolutely huge so difficult to sculpt to corrado rear end. I've toyed with the idea of 4WD but never gone any further than just thinking about it, plenty of info but best bet is syncro rear end with haldex hanger welded to it.

I think you can get all the replacement parts from avs. Its pretty much the same as the r32, just the r32 crack pipe is a fraction longer. nothing is internal, it's all accessible. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Nah its easy, will probably only take half an hour. Remove the 3 Allen head bolts from side of thermostat housing and gently slide it off the crack pipe, be very careful with the crack pipe as it does have a tendency to Erm... Crack. You can drain the water by removing the bottom rad hose. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Personally, I'd get rid of the low temp thermostat, yes it will make your car run cooler but if everything is working as it should it shouldn't get too hot anyway and even if it does get a little hot, that's what the 3 stage fan is for. You will find that the low temp thermostat's will keep the engine temp around the crossover point of closed/open loop so you'll end up using more fuel as well. Don't think you'll need a new housing, should just be able to swap thermostat

Yes, the door card should just sit in the clips. The clips are shaped like a u shape and the door card should seat itself in it, there should be a mark in the door card where it was seated. Clips should look like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-VW-Golf-Mk2-Corrado-4-Doorcard-Interior-Trim-Panel-Clips-191867301A-/231217726223

Just a thought, have you considered wiring up a boot popper through your alarm and just not having the button? I think if I was in your position I'd want the button as well but its an option. My mate has a bootlid but I'm a fair distance away!

As above, sounds very much like a headlight relay. 1 relay works the dipped and the other the main. Firstly, check the fuses, secondly check the relay. Likelihood is its a bog standard relay, unplug it from the housing and test it by putting a wire from battery earth to pin 85 and another wire from battery positive to 86, it should click. Fingers crossed its one of those fixes! You can buy expensive fancy wiring looms etc which do the job great but if its already been done, you might as well just make a nice job of it yourself with a marine fuse holder and waterproof relay.

I think most of the 6 branch manifolds are 6-2-1. Personally I didn't notice any difference in performance, it just made my exhaust drone more and not sure if it was related as I did obd2 at same time but I got higher engine temps which was a pain. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Probably never after he got banned Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Design engineer, do 2D and 3D design, been playing around with 3d printing recently as well. Also do architectural design and used to be a planning officer so can help with those do I need planning stuff. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Fairly certain they do, they sit a higher up though. Think most of the vag group around that era are interchangeable

Was there much difference with engine hot and cold? If its chucking out blue smoke on acceleration is ring related I believe, 0W-40 imo is too thin for these engines, I'd definitely start with 10W-40 fully synthetic but if it's been stood for a while a good oil change might cure it. My old VR6 used to get quite hot so I opted for 10W-50. Fully synthetic is a bit more expensive than Halfords spec Castrol etc. but it does make a difference on the worn old VR6's so would advise that. Most people go for the Fuchs but I swear by Millers, it's a bit cheaper but does the job nicely - personal preference really

As Fla said, just a wire for optional extra. It's either diagnostics or for the cubby hole gauge, oil temp/pressure.

No, all VR6's have the 16 pin and all Corrado are OBD1, unless you've upgraded to OBD2 :cheers: Most of the bluetooth OBD2 type readers won't work, fairly sure before I went OBD2 I couldn't get my ELM to work but the blue wired ebay obd2 vagcom jobbies do work with vagcom/vcds lite.

Most 4 stud VW will fit, et tend to vary. Check out mk2 & mk3 golf, ibiza, lupo, arosa, seen people fit bmw mini wheels. Bmw e30 are 4x100 but not sure on bore size Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk