G60Jet

BTW looks like a german registered corrado, as that plate is an EC plate.

why show use only then nige?? surly they must be against the law or something daft

the control unit is mounted in the dash behind the switch, you need to remove the fuse panel cover/tray, and knew bar cover if you have an american spec C. and look up to the switch and you will see it. (small black box) might be worth checking the speed sensor is working by getting the mfa to show the speed sensor pulse, this can be dont with the old MFA ignion switch trick, cant remember off the top of my head how to do it though. Does the spoiler go down automatically?

get them to check the cold start valve part 067 906 171 for the KR engine or with a "A" after it for the 9A Engine. i'm bet you have a problem there somewhere.

soz chris you've got a 16v forget the blue coolant sensor i'll have more info in a bit for ya

sod the eye brow check out the headlight on that, nice but totally show use only

cleaning the ISV is a not likely to cure an idle problem that only exists when cold. its more likely a tiny vacume leak or blue temp sender problem i would think. have you changed the ECU vacum hose lately, should be done once at year or so, its the pipe that is EXACTLY 1M long and there is a routing diagram for it on the fan shield. (on mine at least). Personally i would change the blue sensor, and the pipe, check the idle screw on the back of the trottle body for a leak. (you can replace the o ring on it if needed) if it leaks when cold it could be sealing as the engine warms up with the metal expanding slightly. then and only then take the ISV off and check it for dirt, If it looks dirty then clean it out with an air duster spray that you use for cleaning computers then try the petrol wash throught if the duster is not succesful (i wouldn't soak it over night though.) remeber that the Isv is a valve and cleaning it out may unstick it for a short time if its faulty. Id personal spend a little money on the other small parts before buying a new isv any day, then if it is the isv you know that the other parts are new and should not cause you problems for a while.

nope oil going in the boost return is only going to slow down the car as the oil is in vapour form at that point, and it going back throught the charger to the throttle body is only going to screw up the mixture

Corrados had them from the factory BTW, they come in a few sizes according to the part cd, but it gives sizes as battery rating in amps, not dimensions.

Pull gently

i've had to have my supersprint zorst welded at all the join to stop it twisting at the joins. I also have uprated zorst rubbers and they work a treat, especially as my C is lowered and the rear beam axel is closer to the zorst now

on some sony stereos there is a small switch on the case (under side i think) that allows the radio to be set up correctly. so you dont need to switch any wires. but i dont know if they still come on the new ones.

you used to be able to buy a kit that fitted into your engine water hose to heat the water from the washer bottle on its wat to the screen. My dad had one fitted to a Saab he owned years ago.

they are standard equipment in european cars with the warning triangles e.g. in spain you must carry two triangles, a first aid kit, full bulb kit and a blanket.

Im sure i read somewhere that the windows dont go up together becasue of a termal fuse, not sure though, cant be just that. I'd get a control unit of a later VW so you can have one touch on both sides, up and down too.

i'd of brought that for that money if i didn't have to re register it for spain!! (total pain from germany)

Would that the ECU cope with the Extra 2 ron, i know its not a lot but they are mapped for 95-98, i dont know how they works hence the question. :?

there is a switch on the dash to put it up and down please tell me you have found it its under the drivers side airvent about 3 or 4 inches down the dash, not that easy to see unless you know its there.

A rule of thumb on Petrol 1 Look inside the petrol flap, there is normally a sticker on there somewhere 2 Most new cars that run on unleaded have a narrow filler neck so you can't get an older 4* or LRP nozzle in them. i think although not !00% sure you'll also find that unleaded filler necks have a flap on them designed to stop the petrol coming back up the filler neck but thats a rule of thumb

'the car in front is a Corrado' 'so why bother trying'

its says here where i'm from

they normally come up at a set speed, the UK one i believe are set to come up at 56mph, german and most others are set to come up at 120km/h. Mine comes up at 120km/h and goes down at 20km/h. remember the speedo and speed sensor work seperatly so the spoiler may not come up dead on 56mph on the speedo.

James sprinter, Make sure you get the correct one with the same part number as the old one, as they come in slightly different lengths and the wrong one will cause the dipstick to read incorrectly.

ideally you need a Amp that can pump out about 10-20% more than the subs peak power handling (the peak power is normally the figure quoted cos its normally the largest number in watts. (just remember the sub will cope with that for about a second before it blows the coil.) then you need set the amp up using the gain control so that it cannot blow the sub, normally you turn you head unit up to about 2/3 or 3/4 volume then turn the gain up on the amp VERY SLOWLY till the sub just starts to distort or the gain is at full, then turn it down again buy a 1/8 of a turn (depending on the amp) this is called "head room" that way you dont over drive the sub or amp. all you have to do then is remeber never to turn your head unit up above the level you get the sub up at. you can then play with the crossover frequencies to set the sub up to respond to the correct frequencies.

Save up! i'll second that. or sell it and buy a G60 :lol: