renson

Have been thinking about what to do if the green bulbs don't make the indicators flash more orange. Was thinking of something like this red tops with the indicators smoked. tint.JPG[/attachment:3ilyk7ax] Not the best photoshop but i think it might look ok. Has anyone else done this or are better at photoshop? A lot of new cars seem to have all red rears with just the indicators and reverse lights tinted dark/clear.

Seeming as it as been a long while since i have updated, i thought that i should make some changes. Last year was a joy really, didn't have any real problems except for the ignition switch which was a pain in the ars8, the sunroof breaking, the fan deciding to not work (broken earth lead) the Battery packing in And the starter motor playing up (loose spade connector on the end). These were all sorted out, only for the sunroof to break again a few months down the line :(. So i thought i would start this year with a good clean. Before Book1.pdfCorj.jpg[/attachment:2kslbktk] After stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfImage0011.jpg[/attachment:2kslbktk] I then decided to put a few bit on that i had accumilated. Starting with the 90mm splitter, and replacing the 2 broken fog lights. ETKA Corrado.pdfImage0075.jpg[/attachment:2kslbktk] I also had to pull the back bumper off to replace the clips on the side after some ***t hit my car in the car park. Fourtunatly there was no other damage other than the clip. Next on my list was to re bolster my drivers seat. I was pleased with how easy it was to do. Both the top and bottom bolsters were worn completley through so thought it was time to sort them before the cloth got damaged. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfImage0066.jpg[/attachment:2kslbktk] Corrado92.pdfImage0067.jpg[/attachment:2kslbktk] Finished. Not the best pic in the world but feels so much better now passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfImage0068.jpg[/attachment:2kslbktk] I also decided that i was bored of the tinted top lights so got some more rear lights from the bay and proceded to tint them red. Before climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfCorj13.jpg[/attachment:2kslbktk] After 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfImage0104.jpg[/attachment:2kslbktk] The lights shine orange(ish) Taped 3mm lines on the reverse, and indicator lights which let some of the light shine through. For some reason the reverse lights are clearer to see than the indicators. Have replaced the old bulbs with Orange ones. Next i am going to try green bulbs. I have now moved onto the engine bay, Just giving it a little tidy up and have also been replacing any trim parts throughout the whole car that i have noticed mising. All that i can see that is left is the door lock cover on the drivers side and the little plastic cover for the metering head but that is somewhere in the mess that is my garage. Corj4.jpg[/attachment:2kslbktk] Still got loads more cleaning to do in the bay, and have a magnex exhaust to go on at some point and sort the intermittant passenger window problem out. Also want to change the wheels. I love all these wide wheels but i am thinking something more sensible like some borbet c on azev a's. Know the 'MELON' as my boss has named it is nowhere near as nice as some of the cars on here but thought i'd share it anyhow.

ok so i have a strange problem happening with my passenger window. Most of the time it works, but others it won't. I have noticed that now with the passenger door open sometimes my alarm keeps registering it as if the opening and closing. This does not happen with the door shut. If it was just the earth swith that operates the interior light/alarm door switch would this cause the fault? Are there any seperate earthing points for the doors? It may also be a loose connection but i really don't want to take the door cards off unless i have to. I should point out that no fuses are blowing and that i can hear the window relay thing behind my head clicking and the window does not sem 'stuck' in anyway. Any Ideas? :brickwall:

Has anybody seen or used this before, somebody was using one of these on VWvortex. Wish i had known about these before i had to buy the whole cable from VW. At least i will know for next time :sad: http://gruvenparts.com/website/cart/car ... gory_id=60

KUR2Y Please could you put me down for a 3 relay loom at £56. Don't need to worry abouth the OEM connectors. Was just worried that if they failed while i was out and had to bodge the loom then i would be stuck with no lights, now i can see that i could just plug the old look back in. Has anybody found a suitable container to put them in to keep the relays safe? Might look in the CPC catalogue tomorrow at work and see what cases they do. I would have thought that the relays would be quite prone to getting wet mounted by the battery. Thanks for that Sonicriot13 :clap: .

Don't know if this is relevant but i had a couple of incidents with steam coming out of the engine bay. Mine was the rubber seal on the headder tank lid. It was caught slightly and would sometimes cause steam to come out. Might be worth looking at the lid, only take a second. Do seem to remember that the lid was prone to some kind of fault ant that a blue version was the replacement. ( could be talking cr*p :lol: but i'm sure someone will know)

Hi just a couple of questions, please excuse me if they are a bit obvious. What exactly is the difference between the 2 & 3 relay looms? And does it matter if the car is late or new spec? Mine is a late spec 2.0 16v so please could i have a price for both (2&3) with OEM connectors so i don't have to chop into anything and can just take them out if need be. Thanks, Darren

No mate it hasn't got air-con.

Right my 2.0 16v has one of these covers, The numbers on it are as follows; AKT 535 825 250 pp Hope this help, Darren

i will look at mine, still haven't put it on back on yet.

to bump an old thread, I can open my bonnet, however the passenger side always sticks. To open it i either need 2 people or have to wrap the seatbelt round the handle. then when i push the bonnet it opens straight away. It seems that the release lever is a bit stiff and just catches the bonnet pin. Has anyone had this happen before and any hints on fixing it. I Have tried adjusting it but anymore and the bonnet won't shut.

i replaced the oil cooler seal last year too. But was leaking again not so long back. Might be worth checking or just replacing as its cheap and easy. I found that there was a bit of an old seal stuck on the bracket which had obviously failed. Like i say easy and cheap so worth a try. I also changed the high and low pressure sensors while i was at it. I didn't use genuine VAG but at under a tenner for both if they last a couple of years then fail who cares.

by cdem on 03.10.2008, 13:27 Its not just VR's that do it, my 1.8 16v does it. I think its the actual pedal not coming back up straight away when you take your foot off it...well thats my car anyway. Like i said, look around by the accelerator (Spelling?) pedal. mine was catching at the back on the fuse panel cover causing the same symptoms and mines a 2.0 16v

what about the seal between the actual block and the oil filter bracket. Could it be from there? What i done was clean the engine bay, got 2 torches and i got under the car had a mate looking from the top with engine running and between the 2 of us traced the leak in a few minuites. I thought first about putting talc powder over where i thought it was leaking to see if that would show where it was leaking. Don't know if that will work though?

I noticed this the other week.Greased the throttle cable but it made no difference. Mine turned out to be the throttle pedal catching slightly on the fuse cover making it slow to return back to its original position. just trimmed a couple of mm off the back of the cover and has been fine ever since. Try removing the the fuse cover and see if it still does it.

are you sure its nit from the top of the oil cooler? there is a seal at the top that leaks. Thats where mine was, really awkward to see. Or what about one of the oil pressure sensors on the top of the cooler bracket?

Just wanted to say thanks for the quick replies yesterday, got it all sorted yesterday. It was the earth connection on the battery causing no power to the fan. Sorry to hear you still have problems jim, still mine may not overheat but i want your wheels.. :lol:

think i may be somewhere near solving this. Just went and picked up a new thermostat and fan sensor during my lunch, also tried to short out the fan but couldn't get anything to happen. Once i got back, felt the top and bottom hose which were both hot, and the radiator which felt hot all over including at the sensor. Tried shorting the over run but nothing happened there either. After a quick scan around the bay noticed a broken earth terminal to the battery, quickly connected it up and the fan started working :D Going to redo the battery terminal after work a hopefully all should be well. Thanks for the help, feel a bit of a stupid for not noticing it in the first place but this past week the car has been nothing but problems.

No water leaking now, that was the seal on the lid causing water to escape from the overflow on the header tank. Oil cooler is fine, i had oil leaking out of the old seal where it bolts to the bracket so no oil/water mix. I'm going to short the fan in a bit to see if its still working. I know the fan switch controls the two speeds of the fan but does it control the fan after the ignition has been turned off or is that someting else?

Just wondering if anyone could shed some light on a new issue that i have, Last week i had a oil leak around the oil cooler, changed the seal and all was sorted for a few days then it started leaking again (had no issues with overheating first time seal was changed). Have sorted the oil leak and refilled the coolant and thought all was fine till the car started to overheat in traffic. Checked the coolant when i got home and the there was next to nothing in it. Refilled it and didn't have any coolant leaking out so let it run to get any air out, re fitted the cap and then after a bit water was shooting out of the side of the coolant tank. Found this was down to the cap seal and sorted that, but my fan is not cutting in at all. Checked the levels today and all is fine, when i got to work the top hose to the rad was hot and the bottom was cold which is what i would expect in the 2 mile trip, yesterday both hoses were hot so i'm sure the thermostat is working. I think the overheating is down to the fan not cutting in, could the low coolant levels have caused the rad switch to die? and would this also cause the fan not to turn on like it used to when i parked up after the ignition is switched off? I have checked the fuse by the way and don't have the relay thing by the header tank on my 9a? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. :help:

Fu**ing car, good job i did fix the bonnet. It's just thrown up loads of oil outside my house. :censored:

Keep me informed if you do the spring. May have a look into it next week. Have loads of springs at work but they may be a little ott for whats needed seeming as they are for the speed sensor rollers on classIV braketesters :lol:

Did you find that your handle didn't spring back correctly? I have to push mine back before i close the bonnet. Thats the only issue i have :( Was thinking of modifying it further and making a spring mount to the handle but at the moment at least it's fixed.

Don't know if this is any good to anybody but the other day my bonnet wouldn't open because the clip that holds the outer cable cover had broken. As many are aware VW made this part obsolete in 2006 so the only way to get it is by paying nearly £30 for the complete cable :censored. If it has attached correctly below is a quick write up of how i spent £1.69 in hafords and about half an hour to get things working again. I Know the bonnet is Exterior but the Handle is Interior so wasn't sure where to post! sorry if its wrong

quick question, hopefully someone can help. Had the bonnet get stuck on monday, managed to get it open, it was the clip that hold the outer cover over the cable that had broken. £30 for a new cable and clip so ordered it just in case, and went looking for something to hold the cable. Got a bit from halfords and have got it all working, cost under £2 to do :D. Have taken some picks so could put up how i done it. The bonnet now opens everytime no problems but the handle doesn't return back to its original position. You have to push it back before you close the bonnet. Tried tightening the cable but that made it worse because then i had it so tight that the catches were always open. Have got it to a point where it will open and close everytime, but what could be causing the handle to not pull back. Could it be the release springs that are a bit tired, or that the outer cover is not quite right?