daleyboy

But then if you do get older and wiser, your stuck with a car with rolled arches which when you put the original speedlines on it'll look like a mk2 escort just about to do a rally stage in 1978......... I dont know about you but i want to keep my car for a very long time, and am quite reluctant to do anything that cant be put back to stock easily.........

I think it comes down to how the copper who pulls you up interprets the rules and how much attitude you give him, you know what coppers are like. Unless you can find the specific law regarding this, maybe a trip down the cop shop with those photo's, but just cos one copper says its alright doesn't mean they all will. Its your choice what you do with your car, but it seems a bit of a risk to me, is it really worth it ?

Why not just look at howmanyleft.com, it also tells you how many are sorn etc...

I dont suppose you have any 535 813 989 rear number plate plinth ? My stealer said they are now available via the heritage website but i couldnt find them anywhere.

I think i would prefer to undo the bottom ball joint rather than the wishbone bolts as the one on the drivers side wont slide out because its too close to the sump, so it would be rack (4 bolts) bottom ball joint (3 bolts a side) then undo the arb (one bolt a side) then obviously all the engine mount bolts then the subframe bolts. Thats obviously just my opinion............. :wave:

The whole rear subframe, i dont know what plates you mean ahh the plates are attached to the subframe as it comes out all as one.. You can try just to unbolt the subframe and see if you can get to the clips holding the bushes on (then your gonna have possibly engine/components contacting bulkhead, or at least a little exhaust hanger stress ), i would rather put an engine support in place holding the engine (the one that spans the engine bay holding the engine by chains/bolts) and undo the engine mount bolts leaving the nut on top of the thread (major headache lining up engine mounts to subframe if you take it off) then undo subframe bolts to drop the subframe enough to get to the clips. I haven't done it that way so wouldn't know the easiest thing to do (as i took my subframe off completely), i think the engine support then undo engine mount bolts (not all the way) then subframe bolts would be the safest way as theres less risk of doing damage by trying to lean the engine back whilst still connected firmly to the subframe. It depends on whether you get enough clearance just by undoing the subframe bolts and tilting the engine back, you want to give yourself as much room as possible cos those brackets are horrible to put on, i did mine when the subframe was on the floor and i had my whole weight ( 14 1/2 st) trying to get those little buggers pressed on enough to get the bolt onto the thread. Dont forget the engine/gearbox is heavy and you want the safest option for you and your car, the rear subframe bolts will probably have to be taken out because they are so short but try to leave at least two of the other bolts (one each side) in place because trying to line up your subframe with the engine on top, to the bolt holes going into the chassis will involve lots of swearing. What i have just written will probably make no sense whatsoever......... :shrug: Look at some of my pictures to try to work out whats going on with it http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?50280-Some-front-end-work

As far as i know you have to drop the subframe, this is how i did mine. All i can say is those clips are tight with the new bushes and i used some mole grips to push the clip down i also used some fairy so the clips slid a bit better, even with the subframe off it was a PITA job. IIRC the clips are so close to the underside of the car you have no choice but to at least drop the subframe a bit, but expect grazed knuckles and copious donations to the swear box.

Good man, i like a happy ending.......... :dance:

When did this start then, what did you do just before you had these symptoms ? Did you change the cam belt ? If you have a spark and fuel then it sounds like timing problems, have you made sure its at TDC when you checked the markings ? Have you taken out spark plug 1 then put a thin stick down the hole to check tdc ? This is what i would do; 1)check the tdc and timing marks 2)check all ht leads are on the right spark plug are in good condition and are pushed on properly 3) check the dizzy cap is on the right way round and the rotor arm is correctly mounted. Anything you have checked/touched on the car go over again slowly to make sure its nothing obvious, if you've checked and double checked then it looks like some sort of hardware failure. I have many a time been caught out with doing something like not pushing on a ht lead properly, then you get symptoms, then panic, then feel really silly when you find out what it was. Good luck.

Maybe its a typo and he mixed up the 3 and 9 ? If not mine's going on sale for £12k........... :crazyeyes:

Ditto above.

I had woolly steering when i didn't do my rack bolts up tight enough......also check all your subframe bolts which i presume you had off when changing the rack.......

I think he means the subframe the bit that the wishbones bolt onto...... :turn-l:

Ok mate i shall await your response........ ;)

Wow that was one hell of a thread, i was so much on the edge of my seat reading it, my arse has gone numb ! :geek: If we can set up this stealth remap, then it is exactly whats going on mine 263's and schrich vgi :onfire:

I posted this to your response in my thread in the wanted section, i was after a set of two for the fronts only. They are the banjo type fitting for the mk3 golf vr6 288mm calipers, just the front two required, can you give me a price please ?

Many people have had their alarm fitted by "trim wizard" his name is Andy Bryant iirc he fitted a cobra to my car which is cat 1 and did a top job, i wouldn't have thought anyone would want to skimp on security and if you get what you pay for, why not just go for the best fitter you can ?

Yea thanks, i just wanted the front two, im doing a 288mm conversion on the front and my Goodrich wont fit as they are screw in and i need the golf mk3 banjo type fitting, hope that clears it up. I have just seen your posts in the "parts for sale" section so would be interested in you giving me a price, cheers..........

Cant help with that, but if you want to find a big patch of rust just drop the tank and look behind the neck just behind where your photo shows.....as you say a magnet for mud......

Yes indeed that car is better no doubt and better value, but there is something satisfying in getting a car like the one i linked and doing all the work yourself, but just to contradict myself i would go for your one all day long.....

Trouble is when you do a few jobs, you think of a few more to do ..........

As title really (front two), i have the bolts which thread into the caliper, i could also swap my Goodrich screw in type hoses for a decent set...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-CORRADO-G60-/270963498793?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3f16aedf29 Looks nice and original, albeit a bit pricey......

Yea, nicely done, can someone edit the first post i don't see my name in there......... :wave:

Mines fine mate using Opera, have you cleared out your temp files, cookies, etc ? And a merciless plug for CCleaner.