boost monkey

:nuts:

Yeah, cross member mounts could be going I guess. They don't have any metal parts to them as the engine mounts do because they just slip over the CM brackets into the rad support panel. Worth replacing at £12 for 4 from VW!

Ditto avoid GSF rads. IMHO second hand gen from ebay or a forum :salute:

Managed to get the hub and bearing to garage today. John asked me about the bearing too, so I guess they have strict rules on that aswell. I told him I just needed it back for the weekend so that's cool. another Black POR kit came last night, so I'll get that on the rear beam. Thinking I might strip the current paint off it so that I can zinc plate the beam itself - makes sense to do it properly. bit worried about marine cleaning the hub when it's got the new bearing in, won't it dissolve all the grease inside? :ignore: :shrug: Maybe I should just brush hammerite the hubs instead and mask off any bearing bits :salute:

Some of us already do... :D Yeah! :lol: I donate £2 a month out of my student budget which equates to £10 in real money :nuts:

changed a few years back buddy, yeah it's a shame but if you think about it, a lot of people use it so why don't they make some money back? $12 is a little high though imo.

Welding and metal fabbing skills are two of the things I really miss being able to do! Very impressive... Resto projects are always a good read :clap: :notworthy:

Well, I attempted to go to the garage this lunch, but the northern hemisphere of the ring road was pretty chocka and as I was on my lunchbreak and had other things to do I turned back :sad: On a plus point, I picked up my second febi bilstein wheel bearing from the depot afterwards. I don't need a second one, but I'm going to put it on whilst the front end is apart :salute: Now i'm just waiting on new POR starter kit (Last kit went so far I thought it pointless to buy litres of the stuff - it costs the same per litre this way anyways! :shrug: ) which will be used on hubs and the rear beam (sprayed, but starting to flash a little) at some point. Maybe this weekend if it arrives in time. Still not got the proper outlay for some new shocks. Maybe after my next job :|

Same could be said about the oil going through a turbocharger, but people still use turbo timers to cool the oil for a few minutes after the engine is switched off :salute:

Found the thread for you guys: rad overrun wiring :salute:

Ditto Walesy. I'm dropping a stripped hub and febi bilstein bearing over to a reputable garage on my lunchbreak today. I spoke to them on saturday and am hoping that they are happy to put it in and just charge me labour.

No probs, was good to get at least one Corrado sorted! :nuts: you should maybe look at getting a nylon gearchange bush from Neil, I can send you his email address. They're £10 posted IIRC. Very quick to change over at the turret end of the cables.

Always good to have an update, Yan. Well done for cracking on!

Ha ha yeah! Sorry mate, didn't mean to be short! :nuts: Glad you got yours home though, will have to read up on your other issues sometime soon.

So.... seeing as I got some new window looms from Mr.Beige and paid for as a present from Prodigal ( :clap: :grin: :salute: :cheers: 8)) I popped over to P's on saturday and thought we might give them a go. After removing the doorcards and fusebox trim (and working out that the wiring diagrams we had were for a US spec car - basically wiring sides were swapped!) we attacked the loom. The dendrils of thick red spaghetti wire and the importance of the block of 4 relays became quickly apparent: those relays were working the windows :shock: (or not working the windows, to put it more accurately). Prodigal proceeded to cut all the crap out of the loom as it obviously wasn't working. There were at least 3 inline fuses on the same line (why?) which was pointless so we got rid of it all. Tracing the wiring back towards the fusebox, we quickly realised that something was wrong. The wiring to the control module (behind rear doorcard) was being superceded by these relays - they were a bodge replacement! Ok, we thought, maybe it just needs this wiring removing and a new control module found. Simple enough. We pull back the rear doorcard to see what the problem is: Oh. I don't even have a Window Control Module.... Awesome! :brickwall: :bad-words: :mad2: There are so many shortcuts in this car it's beyond funny. So, my windows still don't work and the only spare Control Module I had got sold about 2 months ago.... you couldn't write this :cuckoo: Under the glovebox, there are more relays (obviously controlling the up/down motion of passenger window) and also the Quartz Ultrasonics alarm with tons of wires butchered around it - doubt it even works :nuts: So yeah, I love electronics :pale: If I can find a cheap runabout, this car is going off the road big style.

that valves in the lower part of the airbox. If you had that air leak on a KR (1.8) the car would NOT idle. Period. Mine was missing a little pipe from that stub to the main air intake and it would rev up fine, but would not idle at all. Looks like 9a's don't have that problem!

Spoke to Kidlington Tye & Exhaust Centre today about pushing a new bearing into my spare hub. They quoted 0.5 hours work to remove the old bearing and push the new one in, which is £12.50 + VAT (~£14.70). That's cheaper than I could get the tools alone for and will be nice to build up a relationship with a garage seeing as I do all my own labour. Spoke to steve and he was a nice bloke, happy to help etc. I'm thinking I might ask them for a quote on plating up my rotten battery tray too. They can't do it today as they're a bit short-staffed but can do it Monday, so I will likely take it over in my lunch break and then pick it up on tuesday perhaps :salute: I guess I will take the C to them when the MOT is due too so that will be cool.

I'd say the PCV would be directly responsible for the hesitant acceleration as it's to do with the airflow and ventilation, considering how such pipes can lead to similar problems on other corrado engines. Edit: Injectors are actually service items, and need to be checked/cleaned every 75-80k! Don't think many people know that :salute:

That's not the oil light (there isn't one, not that flashes anyways) that's the coolant light. It should flash for a few seconds when you turn the ignition on just to tell you the sensor is working, but should definitely go off after that. I think the sensor is the one on the coolant expansion tank at the back on the right of the engine bay. Is your coolant level low? The oil light you REALLY don't wanna see is a little blue one along the bottom of the dashboard as that means your oil pressure is low and your engine is about to die. Not great. But you'll get a handy buzzer warning about that at the same time.

Whetever you do, don't try to pull up the door pins when the CL pump is in use, you can easily snap the door pin mech that goes into the door - I did that recently when my RCL when funny. I would say check all the connections around the alarm/immob but as you can't get into the car there isn't a great deal you can do - hope it starts working again? When you do get it working, I would get a key cut for the doors and boot ASAVP.

Sounds like you may have only asked them to look at the wheel bearing so perhaps they didn't even bother? I haven't heard of a driveshaft droning before, but I guess it could happen.

Have you checked for any play in either driveshaft? As the CV joints can wear out, they may start droning although a more common sound is to hear knocking when going around tight bends or small roundabouts. There has been talk on here of tyres making a droning sound also, might be worth doing a quick search?

there are bearings inside the gearbox (input shaft bearings) but bearings between the driveshaft and gearbox? Not too sure matey. ISBs will sound like a metallic kind of light whirring sound when the clutch is up and when you push it down the noise disappears. Would be quite a quick one to check.

Blimey, the Ultima didn't last long! I would have thought you would have built the chassis up and sold it on as a working car but I understand not wanting to have another big build. I didn't realise Exiges could take a 20vT - does someone make conversion kits or something?

Yeah definitely Jay. As mentioned a whole tank weighs the same as an 8-9 stone person.