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pete_griff

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Everything posted by pete_griff

  1. also sounds like tappets to me too. best give the whole top end a refresh if the head is coming off (valves, guides, tappets etc..) any oil burning could be your valve stem seals - they're bound to be ropey if they're still the originals
  2. pete_griff

    Headgasket..

    if it helps there are some pics for reference here
  3. car looks great Jim - pleased for you :) new avatar looks even better though!!! :wink:
  4. my temp gauge also seemed a bt more "lazy" when i had the 24v lump in... glad you're happy with it - wait for the remap. "giggling like a school boy" was how Mark at SWICT described me when he came with me on my first drive! :grin:
  5. does your abs light come on and off when you start the car? i.e is your abs working correctly? one thing i found was my car would do exactly the symptoms you describe when it had an abs fault that odly turned out to be a dodgy rear sensor. thing is people are in the habit of removing the abs light as a cheap fix to get the car through an MOT...
  6. underside is looking 8) very nice!
  7. hey pal - you might just have accidentally installed the wrong temp sender or something like that. when i did mine, Mark (from swict) and had to suck it and see with a couple of different senders before we found the right one. have a look at the pics from my old build thre - you might be able to pick it up from that... and yes, 3 bar is the corrct presue - glad to hear it's slowly coming together. you'll never forget that first drive!!! :nuts:
  8. pete_griff

    VR6T

    he's also got a 24v 'rado (git!) :wink:
  9. what colour is the smoke? bluey = oil black = excessive fuel white = water does the car smoke all the time, only under hard acceleration, only when warm etc etc? a compression test is a good place to start. if your compression is down then you're probably looking at an expensive bill to put it right if you're not doing it yourself... DG Autotech are almost certainly the best corrado garage in the country - they are based down at Kidderminster, which isn't 1 million miles away from you if you're in North Wales. BELIEVE ME you'll be glad you made the trip there if you go. best of luck getting it sorted - keep us posted...
  10. Have you driven a MK4 Shaun, better looking car, IMO of course, no DSG though this is purely heresay as i've never driven either the mk4 or mk5 r32 golfs (driven both mk4 and mk5 golfs, but not r32s) from what i've read from decent sources (e.g. evo magazine etc), the mk4 is more involving and slightly more "lairy" but a fair bit less refined and slower than the mk5. the mk5 is a more refined, sociable and generally newer car (obviously); it seems to be the natural evolution from the mk4 and if i had to choose without driving either then the mk5 would defo be my choice. also i hate to admit it, but DSG really is excellent isn't it - possibly takes a little away from the driver experience and involvement, but undoubtedly gets you there faster... best of luck with whatever you decide Shaun - i have to confess i prefer "home builds" to yours but your car is probably the finest example of a corrado in the uk and a proper testiment to your enthusiasm and love for not only your corrado, but performance cars in general etc. my 2p on you selling is that i still miss my r32 converted corrado (and i never even got to drive it in that guise for very long) due to the time/effort i put into it and just how special it was. i don't think i'll ever stop missing it, but i've now got another very nice car that i'm actually much more happy with as a daily, is reliable, sensible (as a 5litre 400bhp car can be!) and prefer ownership of to the 'rado. swings and roundabouts i guess; if you do sell undoubtedly it'll be a very difficult descision, you'll DEFINITELY miss the 'rado whatever happens, but i'm defo not saying you would regret the sale in the long term as it would undoubtedly lead on to bigger and possibly better things. hope that mass of waffle helps in some way!!! :D
  11. hey Sam - congrats on getting it sorted as far as it is. sorry to hear people are having these downpipe woes - i made a custom job from Pete's original item to allow me to run the r32 twin cats so i never had the problem - looks to be a bit of a 'mare though pal; hope you get it all sorted ok and asap. congrats again - please keep us posted :D EDIT - the hunting also sounds like you've got an air leak to me too - try there first IMO
  12. now THAT'S a daily!!! love it :grin: i'll let you have a spin in the m5 if you let me have a go in that!... :norty:
  13. if you or anyone else want a hand when looking over a 'rado in the south wales/west mids area, then i'm more than happy to lend a hand... sadly don't have a rado anymore (do still miss my old one), but my current motor is keeping me very happy for the mo. hidy hi to all 'rado owners in my area btw! :wave:
  14. pete_griff

    VR6T

    NICE! really pleased for you Graeme - glad to see it's gone to a good home :D always wanted a go in a VR-T at full chatter, sadly i don't recon i'll get the chance in yours as you're so far away :( bet you're unbelievably chuffed! please keep us updated on any progress :D
  15. hey pal, glad to see you're happy to pay for the privilege :D i'd very much like to go out for a spin in yours at some point if i ever get the chance, naturally you could take mine out for a bit of rear-steering action afterwards as well :norty: still got my M5 pal, but it can't afford the new V10 jobbie - it's the old e39 one with the V8. and no, annoyingly i don't think any car will ever be fast "enough!"
  16. yea its not the best around the doors 5-15mpg but on a run it does around 30mpg ! im not kidding! :lol: nice! fair play pal the car is looking absolutely stunning after all the effort you've put in - a real credit to you :D i get about 15-16mpg when i'm pootling round town going up to about 29 if i set the cruise control at 70 and just sit there. i'm surprised yours can go as low as it can, i guess you probably use the fun pedal on a more regular basis to me though! there may be murmors of me getting the mapping looked at by the boys at DG Autotech before long on mine though :norty: has V-Power started to run out where you are yet? - apparently there's going to be a nationwide shortage before long (so i'm told)... :shrug:
  17. very nice! i never knew that you were part of the "dark side" modding fraternity Mr Supercharged - thought you were an OEM-all-the-way man!
  18. yes you can do it yourself and no the driveshaft shouldn't be damaged. some useful tools to get hold of before hand are a copper hammer (to prevent damaging threads etc when tappng the new driveshafts on/old items off) and a set of circlip pliers for the fiddly little circlips on the shaft itself. if you're getting genuine replacements then they'll come with metal ties - get a garage or a dealer to crimp these up properly as you won't have the proper tool...
  19. for the record as well, from what i can see having had it apart before, the spring there doesn't actually serve much of a prupose. i can see it perhaps saving the bias valve from damage due to over-extension etc, but it just serves as a link between the beam and the valve mainly...
  20. when you undo the bolt te pivot should be pulled down towards the floor - look at the way it moves with the rear beam. when the beam is upper most (closest to he floor of the car), the pivot arm thingy on the bias valve is down the most. simply just undo he bolt and hang a set of decent size mole grips off the pivot arm. if the car is lowered once you've got it all back together, it might be worth getting an mot testing station to set the bias back up for you - they'll have brake testing rollers, so they'll be able to the the front-to-rear bias up somewhere near what it should be for the ride height of the car. the pivoting arm on the bias valve has a nice long slot in it to allow for the adjustment.
  21. if of course you don't want to go through that mammoth task of jacking up the rear beam with extra stands etc etc you could just undo the 13mm bolt that holds the bias valve onto the rear beam, then hang a set of mole grips etc off the pivot from the bias valve to ensure it stays fully open when you bleed the system! edit - just read theabove post fully (no offence meant here btw bruno) - there's absolutely no need whatsoever t go through all that elaborte process - all having the engine runnning does for the brakes is activate the vacuum going to the servo and give you servo assistance - the actual hydraulic braking system is completely independent of the engine! if you ensure the bias valve is fully open (as bruno says, though i would suggest my method!) and bleed the system thoroughl using an eezibleed kit, then you shouldn't have any problems. point when doing the bleed - don't forget there are two bleed nipples on top of the abs pump and one on the master cylinder itself - don't forget to include these when you do it. hope you get it all sorted. :) and for the record - you've almost definitely got air in there - if there i an imbalance to the rear brakes (as you say) then the car will noticeably pull the rear end out of shape. this strangely will sometimes also happen if your abs is on the blink!
  22. :grin: :clap: :grin: :clap: WOOHOOOOO! really pleased for you pal, just get that boost leak sorted and then it'll all be forgotten :D post up how it is driving it for the first time after all your work - bet you'll be giggling like a little kid!
  23. do you just mean the bit of rubber flexi covered in blue fabric that runs from the reservoir to the master? that shouldn't make any difference at all! your problem has come from bleeding the system by the sounds of it... first try and re-bleed the system. however from what you've said, i sunds like something has failed somewhere, or possibly you haen't tightened something back up 100%. try a re-bleed and get back to us...
  24. no, turning the engine over doesn't affect the clutch. sounds like the master has had it... which did you replace - guessing it was the slave?...
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