iceviolet

I got one of those gunson eezibleed kits, about £20 i think or under. You can use the air from a spare tyre. Although i just made an adapter to connect to an airline from my compressor. Works a treat.

Well after fitting the new radiator last week and then blowing the matrix i decided noy to dwell on it and just get on with it and fit a new matrix. I had dreaded doing this job, but actually it wasnt too bad at all! I stripped the old one out on friday, then planned to fit the new one,tidy up the plastics etc on saturday! Best laid plans an all that came true to form!!! Got back from VW saturday lunchtime with my new matrix,raring to go! No electricity, and i have an electric garage door without the manual key! cannot get in, rings up electric board, "its ok it will be back on for 1pm". No worries, power came on at 5pm :censored: ! I was expecting to be finished by this time as Leeds were on the tv. So saturday was a right off! Sunday, started about 11ish, finished about 6, lots of breaks,dinner and cleaning up everything as it went back. Steady away and it was quite rewarding tightening up all the bits that have been wobbling and creaking and putting everything back all nice and clean! The dash hardly makes a sound now when driving!! :D :D Anyhow, a few pics of the progress! I have got some pics of the matrix itself which will be posted up when vr6joni gets a gsf matrix, so we can compare and see what constitutes £100 price difference!

Fitted a new heater matrix! a day behind schedule as there was a power cut from 10am until 5pm yesterday and i couldnt get into the garage as i have an electric door and no key!!!! Wasnt as bad as i was expecting removing the dash. Quite a steady away job! All went quite smoothly really, dash is all tightened up now, much less squeaky!! overall quite satisfying! Will post pictures up in my build thread!

Well it was confirmed that my matrix had gone, damp carpets and steam. Decided to waste no time and just sort it straight away. Picking up a new VAG matrix tomorrow lunchtime then going to fit it same day if possible, maybe sunday? I thought id get a head start and strip out the old one this evening, under 3 hours and i had it out, i suppose thats the easy bit though!lol! Hopefully it will go together ok again. Few pics of the matrix, as you can see,leaking and date stamp is 1993 so its lasted 17 years! ill be happy if the new one lasts that long!

I will be fitting it tomorrow hopefully, im taking the dash apart now,just stopped for a beer! :D My matrix has deffo gone, i can see drips of coolant now i removed most the dash parts. i can take loads of photos of it before i put it in, and you can do likewise, then we can see if there is any dfference?? or you could call round and compare them in the flesh before i put it in if you can be arsed?you arent that far away? or did you say you were working? But im deffo wanting to get in asap, i have hardly driven the car all year!!

Ill be picking mine up tomorrow from VW so will put a few pics up here, let me know if theres a difference, £100 more is a lot of brass for the same part, if it is the same that is!

I just bought a new one from VW, quality compared to my old one is significant to say the least! £185 inc vat i got it for so not too bad for a vr radiator. Only thing is now my heater matrix has gone, just ordered one from VW today too, they are £145 now!!! :shock: :shock: but i only plan on doing this job once and only once so genuine all the way! another 17 years!

Pete Griff, thanks for the advice on trying to push the air out when doing an oil change. I didnt really think about which way it had to be mounted like i said, i had seen a pic on here of someones like that and just thought it was the norm. If i can get a matrix for the weekend i might tackle it. see how i feel! Jon Vr6, i bought the soft spares kit from bigg red, and i refurbished them myself. Shotblasted them, cleaned, new seals and rubbers and then painted them. The paint colour is called copper green, its just a metal paint that i can get from work. A bit like hammerite, spray directly onto bare metal. Ill have a look tomorrow see what its actually called. I just fill a jar and bring it home. There is one problem, i hope its a little one, that is starting to bug me. When i come to start the car for the first time, there is a knocking noise for just the second or two the car starts up, then dissapears immediately. If turned off and started again it doesnt do it. only when the car has been left. It sounds like its from the top end.i hope its from the top end!! Am i right in thinking this could just be a hydraulic lifter thats draining and losing it oil when left and its just taking a second or two to get its oil???? This problem has nothing to do with the mocal as it did it before i fitted it. The car drives ok and no noises when driving, just that initial start up. Slightly worrying!

I didnt know it was inverted??lol, thought that was the correct way? I was under the impression that the oil is forced through the cooler so it wouldnt really matter which way you have it? It seems to be working, before i was getting 114-120 on motorway at 70ish, and now it sits at 98-102.

Well i know what im doing this weekend then!!!! Bite the bullet!! Can it be done without removing the entire dash??? And anyone have a rough price for a genuine VW item?? Any other bits id be best replacing while im in there??

Hello there! Havent updated this thread for a while, done a little bit of work on the car since the last one. Been losing the love for the corrado recently though. I have found out today that i will need to replace the heater matrix pretty soon, just after i have just replaced the radiator and fitted the mocal oil cooler, just one thing after another!!!! Anyway this is what i have done since last update. Fitted some 288mm brakes to replace the shocking standard ones. What a difference they make, lots better! Also i have been having a few problems with the engine running hot, So i decided to fit a 13 row mocal. I got the thermostatic plate and kept the original cooler. A small problem was i found a pinhole leak in the radiator when i was inspecting it as id been getting steam now and again from the rad. Turns out it was not a genuine radiator anyway. So fitted a new denso marston radiator along with the mocal. Hoping this would bring my temps down. It has slightly but not what i was expecting. Today i been out for a run, and when i got back i was just in the garage and noticed all the windscreen had steamed up. got inside and yeah condensation on the windscreen and also condensation/slight dampness down the drivers footwell! I take it this is a warning shot from the matrix???? Just after i replaced that rad and filled with new coolant!! what a pisser!! not looking forward to changing it at all!! Could this be due to the new radiator holding the correct temperature/being more efficient and giving the matrix too much to handle?? FEW PICS OF PROGRESS:

Just bought a new radiator, got a quote from a few places, £150-170 for a non genuine. Called into VW to get some coolant and asked for price, £176 plus VAT. Asked if that was best price? managed to get 2 bottles of G12++ and the radiator for £201. So for the extra few quid its worth going genuine for the reassurance i think! Just thought id put an up to date price on here!

Right ive had my car plugged into vag com today to do a bit of monitoring. i did a little log of events: 18 degrees outside 10 mins from idle • Oil 60C • Water 82C • Intake temp 30C • Timing flickering between 3.8 and 6.0 (3.8,4.5,5.3,6.0)occasionally 6.8 • 680 rpm 20 mins - cam cover too hot to touch, manifold very warm(can still put hand on it) • Oil 86C • Water 93C • Intake 43.4C • Timing same • Rpm same Fan kicked in at 93.8C 30 mins • Oil 94 • Water hitting 96.6 then fan comes on to bring back down to 93.8 • Intake 55.5C • Timing same • Rpm same 35 mins- can hold my hand on manifold for approximately 2 seconds - cam cover red hot • Oil 96C • Water same • Intake 59.5C • Timing same • Rpm same Turned engine off, fan comes on straight away, going on and off for a while afterwards too. Turned back on and found button to log results in excel, SEE THE PDF, anybody notice anything unusual?? a few questions i have are: Are the fans kicking in too late?? is the timing too retarted?? cheers

i havent checked on vag-com, ill have a play with it today i think, the outlaws are coming round so i will hide in the garage!lol! What should i be monitoring ot looking out for? water temp,oil temp and intake mani temp??

Did you ever get to the bottom of why your engine was 'spanking hot' as you put it?? I have the same thing, and again not positive that it is normal. My temps are similar to yours apart from water on mine been a tad higher. And like yours my engine is too hot to touch after just a short run, the cam cover is absolutely too hot to touch and the intake manifold is only slightly cooler! Im going to be adding a mocal soon so that may bring the temps down but heat that comes from the engine after just a short run or idle even is concerning me.

thats correct, its the late mk3 golf discs you need. i was given the mk4 ones by mistake and ran into the same problem! no spacers required or anything like that with the 288 just mk3 discs,pads,carriers and calipers

Spot on that :grin: Im with you there, i still like the oe speedy's think they suit the car well.......... yep the speedlines do suit the car well, im thinking about refurbing my old ones and putting them back on!

im pretty sure there is a seal on both ends, a small one on the front of the engine and large one on flywheel side.

well i reused the bolt. Its only holding the pulley on to the shaft, it isnt taking a load i wouldnt of imagined, the load will be taken on the shaft and the key if there is any substantial loading. I suppose that would work by turning the engine over, i havent tried as i have had the engines out when i removed it.

The bolt is just very very tight! had a little trouble getting mine off, you need to stop the crank rotating at the flywheel end very securely! then apply a great deal of force to undo the bolt. I have used two methods which both worked,one requireing less effort than the other. This was to use a torque multiplier if you can get hold of one. very easy with this. Other option is to use a breaker bar extended by a scaffold tube or similar to create more leverage.

Its a briliant colour and yeah it does look different colours at times,compare that pic above to my avatar,looks totally different. i think it looks its best in that "twilight" period,just as the sun is going down.

Dark ish wheels?? DSCF0013.JPG[/attachment:q0vsochd]

I have just changed the clocks on my vr to try get the coolant light to stop flashing as i had tried evrything else i could think of. Sure enough it did cure the flashing light problem but now the rev counter reads approx 400 rpm higher than the actual engine speed. i.e when on idle 680rpm on vag-com the rev counter is reading just over a 1000 rpm. Any Ideas???? Get some more clocks! lol!! :lol:

From what i remember when rebuilding mine, the bearings are just on the diameters and there isnt a thrust bearing taking out endplay. I may be wrong. I would imagine that there would need to be a little play, as they are helical gears that drive the pump and helical gears do produce an axial force down the shaft. I have had a browse through the bentley manual and there is nothing stating end play on the intermediate shaft.

FIXED! Got another set of clocks, swapped them over and hey presto! works like it should. Flashes a few times on turn of key then goes out! and stays out! :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: So im guessing here, but i think that the cars that dont have the relay must have something in the clocks to control the light. Im so glad its sorted, really annoyed me flashing away all the time. Now i have the issue of wrong mileage on the clocks though, read 89000 now, my old ones were 137000.