borarob

good choice of rim :D what spacers have you used on yours? Looks like I'm about same ride height as you, i'm running 15mm on the back and currently nothing on the front. thinking of using at least 5mm on the front, but would like to go a bit wider if poss....

well just as its time to put the summer wheels back on I realise I never got around to showing pics of my C with its winter sebrings on. pics of the sebrings earlier in this thread show them gloss, but as i think i said the paint went funny so had to redo and went for satin instead. here's how it looks at the mo (for a few more weeks anyway and the rotas will be back :clap: ) tuck ftw!

you don't need to disconnect or remove anything other than the mech, i removed and refitted a new one without taking out anything i didn't need to. the only pipes you may see are central locking and wiper washer - neither of which I went anywhere near... when I put the new mech back in I also made sure I didn't wrap the wires around it in teh same way it was when standard, just to make it easier to get out next time (there will be a next time of course :lol: )

you'll prob find as the days get colder it will work better :lol:

i expect it is just the cable popped off - either engine end or behind the dash cluster......

i had this issue and figured it must be the thermoswitch as you can def hear it click. in the end i just bought a new mech from the bay for £20. at some stage I'll strip down my now spare mech and prob just bypass the thermoswitch

no you won't keep loosing your settings. as i said the radio has 2 power inputs, 1 switched 12v from the ignition and 1 constant 12v from the battery. the constant feed keeps your memory settings, the switched 12v turns the radio on. i don't think rados have a switched ignition feed lurking behind the head unit as standard - i certainly couldn't find one. Easiest place to take one from will be the courtesy light in the glovebox. your alpine will have info / diag on it telling you what the wires are, red is usually perm and yellow switched almost 100% sure this will be the cause of your issue and all will be fine if you get it wired up right

i had the same problem with my C - in the end it turned out to be the radio draining the battery. Just so happens my radio is also an Alpine... does your radio turn on with your ignition / only work with ignition on or doe it work all the time? If it works all the time chances are it is wired with the permanent and switched inputs on it both wired to constant 12V - if this is the case then your radio is never actually turning off properly and is always essentially in standby mode - this was drawing enough current to drain the battery in 4 days. if this is the case you need to wire up your radio 'properly' i.e. give it the separate constant and switched 12v it wants. This will stop it from working if no ignition on but will also mean it is properly off when you turn the car off. Once i did this everything has been fine, have the left the car for over a week and no issues what so ever. I'd also give your batt a proper charge with a mains trickle charger

you connect the resistors in parallel with the blub: dodgy diagram: + (positive) ----------|------------------| ---------------------resistor--------------bulb ground-----------------|------------------|

the resistors are needed. they don't affect the brightness, they are for flash rate. the low resistance of the LEDs means the flasher relay sees it as a blown bulb and therefore indicators will flash too fast

i've found that autoglym metal polish works very well on standard lights to remove scratches and bring out the shine

so i guess that is slide out from the front. in which case i suppose you need to be able to remove the bottom half of the airbox from the engine bay.. or can it be done whilst still 'connected' but with bungees undone?

guys, having done some reading (searching on this very forum), I've decided that in addition to my drilled airbox I'd like to try removing the snorkel to see what difference that makes. as i say I have searched but couldn't find answers to all my questions 1. how exactly do you remove the snorkel, can anyone provide a step by step for me on this? I've had a quick go but it doesn't easily want to move in any of the directions I've wiggled it! 2. I guess I'll know if i get the above info, but is this mod reversible? cheers all oh its a 1.8 valver btw

ah, in that case you will need to cut some wires. Though if you some splice connectors you don't actually need to cut anything just lay the wires in and close the clip - job done. another mark down for green bulbs - they just aren't bright enough IMO - LED all the way.

as zak says no need to do any soldering or cutting to use the resistors. Handily the back of the bulb holder has spade connectors on so you crimp some connectors on to your resitors and they then become a push fit into the back (very easy to work out which connectors to use - just trace round the tracks) one thing to consider though is where you let the resistor come to rest. they get VERY hot when in use - they are trying to dissipate 25W! so make sure they don't come to rest on anything which might melt (carpet, plastic, other wires etc etc)

i fixed my odo - yes i finally got the fecking cluster out!

ok chaps, my odometer stopped working - i've now got a new cluster to replace. However I was thinking (after playing with the new set) that I probably don't need to remove the whole cluster as all I want to swap is the middle clock speedo/odo. Does anyone know whether this, if unscrewed will pull out from the front of the cluster? the only thing I can see being a hinderance is the speedo cable running to the back of it (early valver) - even that looks as though it would just pull free - does anyone know? ta muchly

now i appreciate these are a bit marmite but i think they really suit the rado - especially earlier ones like mine that have a flatter bonnet. should reduce the amount of chips and dead flies accumulating on my run to work! i have gone back to chrome front badge - was all a bit black up front with the underwear on :lol: :thumbup having to redo the sebrings - something gone awry with the paint and they have crinkled - kinda lost interest in the refurb of them but need to finish as I wont be putting the rota through a winter - so just gonna smoothrite them in black now (tbh this is so much easier - wish i done this first time around)

i take it it does work manually on the switch?

oh yeah and invest in a nice sheep skin wheel brush to clean these as it is quite tricky getting right into the backs of those dishes :norty:

so you went back to the originals, good choice - I'm in favour, obviously :lol: (though i don't feel as special as I used to :lol: ) now you just need to lower it!

yeah they do but reverse lights aren't an MOT requirement so will just take both bulbs our or put my set of originals on when the time comes

cheers the key really is to put as many coats of lacquer on as you can, not only is it harder than the savage paint and so will last longer but it means you don't have to worry to much about the finish you achieve - as you will be flatting with the wet n dry to give the smooth finish (more lacquer means less chance of hitting tinting spray and then having to start again.

I'm in Poole on the south coast if anyone fancies it!

you don't need green LED bulbs - amber ones are what you want (green bulbs referred to are normal filament type - as i say though they are sheeite) i bought these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/36-LED-amber-indicator-bulbs-x2-replaces-1156-382_W0QQitemZ390063283229QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item5ad1955c1d&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A30 and these to go with them http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2pcs-6-Ohm-50W-Turn-Signal-LED-Bulbs-Load-Resistors_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZQ7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a30QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1262QQhashZitem2ea6692e9cQQitemZ200360406684QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories