borarob

lovely deep shine, tis a great colour. good work :clap:

was bored this eve so went down to the local public slipway and took some pics, was loosing the light unfortunately but still got some nice shots hope you like :)

i think they would sit just about perfect

i think its a combination of style and size that means these wheels tend not to suit the corrado. obviously 15s work on the rado, but the styles of these wheels, especially the cups, means they look even smaller.

looks great, i'd agree I think you got a bargain. i'd prob keep the ronals. maybe stick 165/50/15 tyres on, space them out 15-20mm, get the 50mm splitter on and then wind the coils all the way down!

i've got the alpine model down from the 305 - works brilliantly, would def recommend it. you just need to be sure you can definitely do without a cd mech. no problem for me, like lots of people these days, the only time I touch the CD is to rip it into itunes :lol:

does make such a difference for relatively little effort and minimal expense. also slightly improves rear vis :lol: next thing on my rear end list is carbon fibre spoiler.. i think it should look smart, opinions?

standard lights look 100 times better - i'd be tempted to leave them like that, and even put the side repeaters back to amber too....

absolutely - well i'd pass on the info I gained from the more knowledgeable peeps on here :lol: once you know what wires to connect (only 4 in total) it is very quick and easy mod. well worth it for the £30 it costs!

very nice - always worth spending the time. i've just finished doing mine after starting at 1.30 :lol:

took the plunge and decided to get rid of the rear wiper to declutter the arse end a bit. really pleased with the result. gotta love cheap but effective mods. also pretty easy to do with help from the wiki few pence for a grommet = loved the irony of me doing this mod in the rain :lol:

looking really good - would love to get my red rado resprayed

couple of chufties recently one tonight in a car park. was walking back to car and notice a guy go to park in the space next to me - quite obviously eyeing up my wheels and trying to point them out to his passenger. He was so vigourously checking them out that he took about 5 attempts to actually park his car :lol: yesterday was driving home in slow traffic, had window down. Cyclist came past on the out side and as he rode through he shouted through the window 'nice', then gave me a thumbs up as he carried on down the rode. He had to go past plenty of other decent cars on his way through the traffic jam but no-one else got that reaction :clap:

looks good - love the interior, would look awesome in my red c :lol: if it were me i'd put a black vw badge on the back rather than the chrome one...

i'm not sure, but i can say with some confidence that you're gonna need a new switch :lol:

exactly - so if you are connecting your door pods by tapping into connection at the dash speaker (after the capacitor) you will get no bass to your full range speaker. even if that is what you have done you wont ever get lots of bass from the standard enlosures because they are a bit pants. e.g. don't provide a sturdy baffle and air can leak both sides of the cone.

my all reds have now gone through two mots in different garages and have been fine. as long as you get the best / brightest amber LED resistors you can fine they flash bright enough and orange enough through the red (its a redder orange but def orange and not red)

at the risk of sounding like keyboard warrior twat 'do a search' :lol: there are loads of posts about this, but the gist is: lower your steering column undo the two screws in the lower corners of the cluster surround (be careful getting the plastic covers off - easy to break/lose!) undo the screws on the upper inside of the surround pull it clear the actual cluster is then held in with 2 screws, one each side in my experience it was easier to also remove the clear plastic front from the cluster as it was easier to get the cluster out with it gone - again, just two screws for that. you need to then tip the cluster forward then push up a bit to release it from the securing tabs on the bottom edge. reach behind the cluster and unclip the wiring loom and disconnect the speedo cable (this is a twist and push type release) hth i'll take some pics tomorrow of the cluster and how to take apart

assuming its an early type cluster as I don't think its possible for miles not to count if evrything else works on teh later type..? had this very same issue - I bought a new cluster to sort it but in then end when I got the new cluster it was easy to see the potential problem with the original. if you whip the cluster out of the dash and take it all apart you will be able to get to the gearing behind the numbers. you will find the drive gear has moved or is loose. Just pop it back where it is supposed to be - poss put a bit of glue on and roberts your fathers brother. I know the above sounds daunting but it really isn't tricky at all. If you want me to post some pics let me know as I have my spare cluster handy I could snap pics of for you....

looks great, i'm glad (ish :lol: ) that others are now realising how great these wheels look on a rado :D i need to improve the stance of mine a bit. at the mo I have 15mm on the back and 5 on the front. I'm about as low on the front as you, I'm a bit higher at the back i'd say. what I am thinking of doing is putting 20mm on the back and putting the 15's on the front. so my questions are: what size tyre are you running, i'm on 195/45 have you had front/rear/ both arch work done do your fronts rub with the 15mm - my tyres are pretty close to touching the outer inside edge of the wheel arch as it is with only 5mm... can you post some more pics of the fronts, poss with a straight wheel ta :clap:

lovely mate, really nice and the grille is fine, all the mk2's i've had have been like that so it must be normal.

had this on mine, nothing to do with the mech, the motor is knackered. you either need a new motor or i think it is possible to bypass the faulty switches inside the motor that are causing the hesitation. hate saying this as it really annoys me when get it as a response, but 'do a search' you should find some info. as i say though, no amount of fiddling or cleaning the mech is gonna help with this issue.

not in my experience - was a perfect fit - it is the same part. the only bit that may be different is the rubber part of it. as you say the angle might be wrong, as some (not all) mk2 have an angled badge. just reuse the rubber bit already on the car..... i've got a spare one knocking about in the garage as in the end i sprayed the old one black as it fits more with the theme of the car

I bought a new one from the bay. Same as the rear emblem from a mk2 golf

thinking about it, yes I probably did. no they don't show once number plate is on. i've also put one of them 'quick release' number plate surrounds on to make swapping between road and show use plates easy...