borarob

what pressure would you put in a 195/45/16 tyre, on an 8J rim? its valver not a vr... ta muchly?

mine is broken too. used bolts through into the tailgate with lots of washers and a bolt to secure it on. much stronger and more secure than it was originally. i think i managed to get 4 in though might have only been 3 as the spoiler mech / wiper motor gets in the way...

fair play on the engineering side but the front bumper, bonnet and rear wing are not my cuppa cake at all...

yup, sanded back and painted and lacquered the whole thing, not just the orange bits...

this is why I could never have a full respray on my car - too anal about it as it is, let alone with fresh paint! colour is amazing btw :clap:

absolutely - its all about the lacquer. the more of that you get on (built up with lots of coats). the more polishing you can do to achieve a factory finish.

Good choice. Dish on a C always works

like others I used the savage spray plus some halfords clear lacquer over the top. put lots of red tint on and lots of lacquer. i didn't put enough in and think its likely I'll have to redo as the tops are going a bit orange. the more paint you put on the more you can afford to polish them up to a real nice shine. here's what mine look like:

put some 5mm spacers on the front of mine today - looks a bit better but does need more, 10mm would be just right, though without work I think I'd need to raise the front a touch..

looks good - nice and low! if i'm being honest though I don't like the tinted rear windows or the all black tails - but hey its not my car! :lol:

cool, did you do the fronts too?

so friday lunchtime at work was spent fitting one of these: http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info.php?c...products_id=671 thought i'd give a go as for the price i figured i couldn't really go wrong. should have really taken more pics as I could've done a how to, oh well. the kit itself is pretty good, the switchblade key fob feels quite nice, not quite up to oem standard, but good enough. comes with laser cut blanks installed but you get two blanks for the car of your choice you also get :vw stickers to put on the instructions are a bit pap as the wiring they give you for vacuum pump type CL is not what you need to use. but luckily this forum has some amazingly helpful peeps on it so soon was informed of what to do! In the end it was just a case of splicing into 4 wires of the harness that connects to the CL pump in the boot. Plus, just to be flashy I also connected up a further two wires so that the indicators blink on lock/unlock as i say, should have taken more pics, this is after i'd done the splicing and put pump holder back together - you can see the 4 wires emerging from the side the rest of the loom. most of it is enused here - if i had electric windows etc I could make use of it to do things like full closure. it also has interface from trunk opening - got the module for doing that - next on my list.. so at that stage you just plug in the 'brain unit' and away you go. I stuck and zip tied mine to the bodywork and then replaced the turret carpet over the top so its all hidden out the way more pics of the key, this time with the correct key blanks in. cost £5 to get them cut! so now the switchblade key opens the doors and actually starts the car! finally a little vid of it in action. all in all a trick little mod for a bout £35! crappy video quality as it was pretty dark, but you get the idea oh also put the 3 slat grille back on. next job is put the rotas back on for summer and to plough on with my boot install. :thumbup

got mine new from rimstyle... cups are actually fairly easy to clean as long as you invest in a good wheel cleaning brush/poking device :lol:

i've got rota cups on mine - i love them considering the design they are pretty light too mine are 16x8 et35 all round. rears needed spacing 15mm to clear coils. spacers not needed on the front but this year i am gonna space them out just for aesthetic purposes...

yeah its brown and another colour not just plain brown. once you look at pass side it will all become clear :)

just been and checked - was right. one side red and brown, other blue and brown. brown negative hth

have a look at each side, one of the wires each side should be of a similar colour scheme - probably with brown in it. that will be negative.

got the blanks cut on the way home from work this eve, so now have functioning key in my switchblade also turns out the guy cutting my keys used to own a rado VR6! he'd also noticed my car about the town and wondered when my other wheels were going back on, so keys cut and a bit of a chuftie! he also only charged me a fiver :clap: p.s. have been doing lots of locking and unlocking of my car, just cos i can :lol: - range is good - about 30m i'd say

thank you so much for your help - i now have a rado with a switchblade fob and remote central locking, all for £28! once i knew how to wire it all very straightforward. would definitely recommend this mod to people. thanks again buddy :notworthy: (i've also got a trunk release kit to go in that i'll need your help with but we'll save that for another day :lol: )

wow, fantastic cheers. :notworthy: so to confirm (btw mine is an early valver) adding in main power to the RC unit... VW Remote Control Lock Red/yellow - Lock White Unlock Red/Black - Unlock White/Black Positive supply Red - Common Yellow AND Yellow/Black AND main power supply Red Ground Brown? - Ground Black also I'm guessing that all the indicator wires are on the drivers side or will i have to extend a wire over to passenger side?

cool, cheers pdf of instructions here http://rapidshare.com/files/373622260/U ... s.pdf.html

hi guys, did use the search but couldn't find anything helpful. found oichans site but he used an older version of the kit so can't be sure its the same. ok so i got the kit, unfortunately they dont make the plug n play version anymore so have the universal one - as expected I can't make head nor tail of the instructions. So has anybody actually bought one of these kits recently that can tell me which wires to connect to which wires. would be extremey grateful! (btw first impression are good, the switchblades don't feel that different to oem ones) ta muchly

until i've got my rear arches rolled then i won't be going wider or lower at the back - i do want to though as i am quite nose down atm.... i bought mine new so they still have the lacquer on over the diamond cut. I won't ever be letting them see a winter and I tend to clean my car every week so hopefully they will retain their finish for a good while (at least until I get bored of them anyway) please do post some pics of the 15mm on teh front, would be good to see...

i do get a bit rubbing on full lock, which is why i'm thinking of using the 5mm's on the front, but i don't know where its rubbing so that could of course make it worse :lol: if i've got 2up and go over a big bump too quick the rear rubs a bit too. ideally plan is to get arches rolled and try and use the 15mm spacers up front and put 20mm on the back great wheels though - they get loads of attention! mine are going back on this weekend after being off for the winter..