Sean_Jaymo

Well, I was under the impression that my sai was removed fully and so much as I'm not getting any errors or funny quirks with the engine, I'm still sat at 0% adaptation. So I'm lead to believe that (again) Kev is right in saying that the relays for the sai and evap valve NEED to be seen by the ecu. Most ecu mappers just remove the ability to display the fault codes. I'll try and wire mine in at some point and go from there. Unless the ecu needs more than 50 or 60 miles to adapt? I'll confirm tomorrow as I have a 200 mile round trip to do in her!

Have you got trays to put under the rear wheels to do better hand brake turns?

Can I passenger with you?!

Nowt wrong with a bit of passion!

I went and had all the geometry set this afternoon and the difference it has made is impressive! It just feels fantastic and accurate. Only problem I noticed was that I had 2 small little hesitations with no real consistency. Not too concerned but I'll keep an eye on it! To test my MAF was reading accurately, I did a few runs and logged them with VCDS. I then divided the airflow by 0.8 to get rough BHP figures. I know the figures are rough and there are so many variables to impact on the accuracy of this method, but I was able to get an idea of performance. Here is a graph of my results, Peak BHP measured at 186BHP which is within 10% of the quoted 204 Peak power so I'm happy with things as they are for now. I do have a spare MAF incase I continue to get random hesitations. I also had the driver door fail to open. It broke in the same way as my passenger handle did when I first got it. Luckily for me, I bought a set of Daves handle repair kits last year and had the spare ready to go for when it did finally break. 15 mins later and normal service is resumed! Thumbs up to Dave!

I can't see that getting another quote could be harmful or offensive?

The reverse light system is basically a plunger switch on the top of the gear change tower assembly, they crack, dislodge or basically break. That goes through a live feed on the fuse box and to the lights at the rear. Nothing else complicated involved :)As said, the mirror switch is pretty rubbish and costs £70 ish from a dealer.

Probably not worth the financial outlay as it'll need mapping as well. Don't get me wrong, but you'll spend upwards of 7 or 800 on parts by the time you fit new rings and crank bearings and a bit of mapping to gain a potential 25 or 30 ponies. Don't let that dampen your spirits though. Speak to Kevin Bacon on here, he is the guru all things 6 cylinders! I think you're better of swapping the heads over though :-)

Also differences in the head and exhaust manifold.

I've got a cracked alloy, ill see if the badge is any good?

Here's to hoping! I'm getting a bit bored of all this rain!

You still need to take the head off for stem seals but it's the perfect opportunity for you to send it off to Stealth or somebody of that ilk for a head rebuild with maybe bigger valves? Could be a blessing to have new chains and headwork, even if it is a bit pricey!

Lovely :) My favourite colour on a Corrado.

Peterborough Dub Corpz - It's a local meet :)

Lol, You'll be the guy who added me to the PDC Group then! I'll bring down my VCDS then. Do you have any other random faults with the engine? It could be related.

I'll be there in my sky high skip :)

I'm assuming you mean the extra side lights in the bumper? This is the part number for the right hand side. 191 945 120 and 191 945 119 for the left hand side. Right hand side is on VW Classic Parts for 14 Euros or so but the left side isn't listed. You also need the right angle bulb holder which is also listed at a few euros. Get in contact with VW Classic or if you want an easier life, e-mail VW Heritage with the part numbers and see how you get on.

If you don't do the nuts up properly, you get movement that the mounts aren't designed to accommodate. Anything is possible mate :) If you have really firm or reduced travel suspension, then you can easily wear out the mounts. Do you have the bumpstops fitted?

Sorry Sam, I remember you posting that now! Your conversion shouldn't give up any fault codes. I know mine doesn't. Either way, you shouldn't have a red glowing manifold at that RPM. It sounds as if you have a restriction and a fuelling issue. Do you have a particularly bad MPG? Are you going to the PDC meet on Sunday? MicVR is trying (successfully at this point I'll add!) to get me to go. I'll bring down my VCDS for you if you want it scanning? If you go full throttle from low revs, does it shudder at 2k as well? Or is it a case of it only shuddering under part load? If you coast down through 2k from speed does it shudder as well?

Unfortunately, having the right number on them means nothing :( I think new ones aren't very expensive from the dealers. The only reason they would fail would be down to incorrect assembly of the strut top parts or the wrong compound,

Are you putting on genuine tops?

Any codes? Full load, part load or on the overrun? Give us a bit more info (unless I missed it like a blind tit) and I'm sure someone can help. :)

Driving! Then maybe suspension. Give us a shout and I'll pack the hammer!

If you need a hand getting it changed, give me a shout, I can just about get my fingers into the gap!

Part number 701191369D. It's for a T4 but works a treat. VW Heritage £9.50 plus some delivery.