Sean_Jaymo

Bit more done today, I replaced the yellow and radiator thermoswitches for new items and gave the system a through flush, drain and refill with some nice new G13 Coolant. Even though I put in some fresh ECP stuff during the rebuild, I always knew this was temporary to act as a flush agent and the crap pulled out wasn't very nice! Anyway, it's now nice and clean and has a lovely purple colour to it. I used a T4 radiator thermoswitch which comes on at a slightly lower temperature than the stock Corrado switch and the current Yellow thermoswitch is now actually black with a blue band. The dash now follows the VCDS temperature within a degree or 2 so that's more than good enough for me! Also fitted a nice new Bosch battery now that I know the car is back on the road permanently. Now you see me! Now you don't! And with it being so wet today, some nice new Bosch blades. Time to save some pennies for a set of Lupo wipers seeing as they are over £160 these days! Took it for a drive and it's great to be back in the seat and those extra 12 valves make it a bit frisky in the wet don't they! Apart from it being a bit rattley, it's a real good feeling to be driving her again. Just a shame I had family stuff on over the weeked and these few small running in snags, otherwise I would have been at the National Day, Next time! Got Goodwood next month and I'm tempted to take the rattley old skip!

Good things reward hard work mate!

Anything going to be done with the engine whilst it's in pieces or just a good old healthy rebuild?

Have you got an R32 powered Corrado clumpy?

Valve stems I think mate. Not the end of world! Looks like you had a fantastic time!

I've seen that mate and I'm starting to feel uncool!

I must admit I am warming to the idea of beige leather interior :-)

In that case, you'll be reet! I got a febi one for my radiator switch which lasted a week, but these things sometimes happen with temperature sensors especially.

Not necessarily, vw heritage sell genuine quality as well. So long as you buy a decent brand like febi or mehle, you should be ok :-)

Get a genuine one for backup mate. These sensors can go bad overnight and a cheap copy isn't always a good thing. Glad it was fixed cheap though :-)

The coolant warning light is a level light, not a temperature light. Hopefully it's just low!

This is what you want. http://m.vwheritage.com/productDetails.cfm?iItemID=16386402 Special order at the moment so just use the part number to search elsewhere.

Look on vw heritage site. Not too expensive at about 12 quid I think.

That sounds like the motor for the spoiler is gummed up to me. The dimming is because it's drawing a lot of power trying to operate something, in this case the spoiler motor. How easily does it move if you move it manually, as in directly from the motor and not the switch?

3 on the thermostat housing. Blue plug, yellow plug and black/brown plug. All next to each other other and then one on the radiator, near the battery toward the bottom. Rubber covered 3 pin plug in a triangle or straight shape depending on your age of vr6. Unplug all 4 and if the fan doesn't run, start to plug them back in. How fast do the fans run? If they are slowly or at a medium speed, it's your radiator switch. If it's at full whack, it'll be your black sensor. The blue sensor is for the ecu and shouldn't turn the fans on. The yellow sensor is for the gauge and aux water pump and shouldn't (I believe from memory) set of the fans.

Boo!

Unplug all the sensors, plug in the fan and module and see if the fans still run. If they do, bad wiring or module. If they don't, plug in each sensor and see which sensor triggers it. Even new sensors can go wrong. My new febi one lasted 6 weeks.

I'll come down next year mate!

I'm only a few years behind you!

I had United Motorsport map out my sai stuff and it's removed entirely. Not had any faults yet with it. I'm just watching for my long term trim to confirm everything is OK. So far, so good.

Lol, I'm not even that old! Must be appreciating a car that handles instead of scrubs!

Have a look in my thread for my exhaust downpipe. You need all 4 lambdas for the ecu to be happy.

Wiring them in isn't impossible and for it to be perfect you need 2 cats, most don't run post cat lambdas and some weld in 2 bungs after the single cat. I'm personally going to have my 2 post cat lambdas after my single cat, but I've only had the car on the road a week and not got around to having the bungs welded in yet. The lambda probes are just connected and left in the engine bay in the fresh air to avoid fault codes.

Jesus! I'll just superglue my red one on!

Welcome along, I don't want to put a damper on your lovely car, but psi conversions don't have a good reputation on here. Fingers crossed you work it out quickly!