Sean_Jaymo

That's my personal idea of perfection when it comes to height.

Depends on pricing I guess?

VW Heritage £14.40 and in stock. eBay isn't the cheapest anymore and is full of con men like this!

The coolant light is only a level light, it's nothing to do with temperature. The circuit is straight forward, the 2 pins that go into the coolant reservoir itself sit in a plastic bowl to reduce the effects of surge on the 2 pins. If the level is correct, this bowl is full and the coolant will allow an electrical current to flow between the 2 pins. One pin will get power to it from the fusebox, the other pin will return straight to the coolant bulb in the instruments via the fuse box and if the instruments don't see a current return, it will flash the small LED. There isn't anything else in that particular system. My guess is 1 of 2 things. 1, There is an electrical problem but there are only 2 wires so should be easy or 2, the pins inside the coolant reservoir are corroded over and wont allow a flow of current between them. Either way, buy a new GENUINE bottle man! They are not expensive and the MK4 can be made to fit as long as you have the electrical plug for it. If you want to defeat it and I would definitely recommend that you don't, then just bridging the 2 pins on the cap will cure it. If it doesn't cure it, you have an electrical problem. That light is important, if it flashes, turn of the engine! Hope that helps.

I think there is currently no stock of these at either Heritage or Classic

If only there was progress made before when there was talk of dropped ball joints and track rod ends to restore some of the geometry on a lowered car!

If you're feeling competent, the switch comes apart easily and for the sake of a bit of a clean, degrease and removal of the corrosion that builds up on the contacts on the circuit board will normally cure the problem. Just be careful when you pull it apart, there a lots of small tiny parts and springs that can make rebuilding the switch a nuisance. New switches are approx £70 from VW and obviously have a 2 year warranty. To remove the switch, remove the trim on the handle itself then remove the 2 screws which hold the handle to the door. The mirror switch is on the back. Remove and fix!

Good Idea Dox, I've heard that the lowering caps add quite a bit to the NVH levels? I know that I along with many others are looking for that nirvana suspension that lowers the car 40-60mm, maintains the comfort and keeps the handling in spec and I know that this is just not possible on suspension costing less than a few grand. But the fact of the matter is that most people don't have that kind of cash to spend on suspension and all they want is a slightly retro car that goes well, sounds good and can be thrown around a bit at weekends and doesn't cost the world to live with. The Corrado is this to most people. If you wanted something more focused/faster/whatever, you would have looked elsewhere before the Corrado. I know I can personally make some sacrifices to have the type of car I would like and if that means I'm going to encounter a touch more bump steer or the occasional scuff of the splitter on speed humps, then that is the sacrifice I am willing to make. the B12 kit may make the best compromise handling wise and it is fantastic that a kit is out there for these old cars that caters to that need, but for me personally, I would rather give up a bit of that for a (in my personal opinion) better look. I'll get off my soap box now!

That's a fantastic price considering I have virtually the same circumstances except I have 12 years experience, 7 years NCB and no convictions and it's £320 or so for me! I'm with Greenlight.

Thanks for posting those up! I think 17's may be a bit lost in there, shame as it looks so perfect on smaller wheels. If it were 10 or 15mm lower, it could have been the perfect suspension! Now, If only it was matched to the 50mm sportline spring!

You can do a resistance checks on each sensor. They should be between 1 and 1.3 ohms. If they aren't, the sensor has had it! Unfortunately that won't tell you if there are other faults apart from the sensors. Also, if it is a duff sensor, the fault will remain hard locked on an the light will remain lit for something like 25 or 30 full system starts. Get it scanned with vcds to get the full story.

I don't think an mot tester is allowed to remove anything and by putting things like under trays fitted etc, he is giving himself a get out of jail free card incase somebody asks questions later.

Exactly like that! The frame tends to bend slightly making it less obvious how it clips in.

2 to 3 hours labour I'd imagine.

2 on mine. 1 should be fine though.

It's wires getting caught between the support brackets and in my case, a badly fitted alarm that gets all of the wires wound up and a pain to fit. Having a dbw pedal doesn't help but that is self inflicted!

Pretty sure it is supposed to sit upright, ie fuses and relays pointing towards the rear of the car. The support brackets it sits in have small round holes that the round pegs on the side of the fuse box locate into. There are then 2 white wedges that hold it there.

Easiest way is to take it to a garage.

Lol, My engine has been in for 8 months or so #justsayin!

I bet, deep down, this car is glad you found it! What a transformation in a year or so!

Here's a blast from the past! Glad that you're still kicking about with this car Kris! Looking good!

Even after a beer!

I'm sure these will drop less than coilovers?

In fact you can see it isn't fitted correctly as the radiator top mounts aren't poking through the slam panel. It's about 2 inches too far rearwards.

Yeah, there is definitley enough room to get the standard fans in on the 2.8 24v. Not sure how much difference there is between the 2.8 and 3.2 but I know there is a bit of a difference in size between inlet manifolds. That radiator may be sat on the wrong studs?