16VG60

As previously stated I'm happy for people to draw their own conclusions. I will not comment further on this matter. John

Dear all, when i attempted to discuss this matter with Anthony he put the phone down on me. I tried phoning him back numerous times, i sent him texts and private messages via the forum. I have given Anthony numerous hours of my time free of charge on the pre text that the cam timing info supplied was indeed correct. However when it was set to standard timing and the timing he info he supplied he was not happy with the result, so i spent further hours adjusting the setup to reach an acceptable conclusion. Anthony test drove his car for some time and came back to the workshop expressing his content with the result. At all times i have informed Anthony that i would look at his car again and carry out adjustments to his request without cost to him. By ignoring my attempts to help him he made his own choices. Clearly that is his right, as it's his right to air his opinions about me. Many of you will know of my work and the standards i uphold, with regard to not only my work but also relationships. I let you draw your own conclusions about this matter, but i rest assured that the truth will out. Regards John.

Kev, yes i am an official supplier of Milltek systems and associated products. The Cat back system is £300 plus P&P And Cat by pass pipes or sport cats are available to compliment this. I can also exclusively supply you with the newly developed large bore high flow system and high flow stainless dowwn pipe setup to match. The systems are made to suit both early hook hangers and the later bar type. Tailpipes as the guys have shown, thanks, are all single oval to mimic oe and fit snuggly into the oe bumper cut out.

I am an MOT tester, and know that my colleagues in this field will interpret the MOT testers guide with their own judgement. When i have been presented with such situations i am looking for emitted light levels, the colour of the light emitted and overall a clear interpretation of the signalling ability of the vehicle in question. Many cars as standard have tinted light clusters, so this in itself is not a reason for rejection, moreover it is the manner by which it has been achieved. At the end of the day if you are concerned about this issue, and don't wish to be faced with a failure accompanied by the prospect of re-presenting the car, then ask your intended tester if they consider your lights to be a reason for rejection.

Thanks guys for your comments ref the looms. Cost price is £50 plus p&p. The looms do use oe headlamp plugs, and bought outright are V expensive from VW. I therefore ask that you supply me with your old plugs, as long as they are in good order, on exchange basis. This way i keep the loom price sensible.

The way i designed the loom for headlamp upgrade, when i was with PDM, is such that the original harness is only used to energise the relays. All the current is drawn directly from the battery and therefore the oe loom is not a restriction. It should not be necessary to fit uprated bulbs, as the loom itself makes the oe bulbs work more efficiently.

Ref the parts you are seeking. the blanking plates you may be able to source from my ex PDM partner Darren, i know he wishes to stay involved with specialist fabrication. Darren may also have further developed breather catch tanks for sale. Failing this, and in no way wanting to rain on Bilal's parade, i have used Stroeve tanks via Eurotek. Have a look at Bilal's product first however as the Stoeve items are a little pricey but pretty all the same!

Not a problem, happy to help. The trend with supercharged engines is to make the best of what you have got. Typically this entails various stages of tuning but be careful there are alot of "red herrings" out there. The primary concern before any tuning is done is to make good the basic set up, and top of the list must be the charger itself. A sorted G60 with a sensible tuning package can easily return 225BHP and still give oe reliability and 32 MPG.

Eaton and Rotrex chargers have been used to good effect in the past, but you will need to be mindful of the output as these chargers can be sourced accordingly. Bracketry is another factor to be considered as is the overall installation. Nothing is impossible just time consuming. One needs to equate the returns against effort and cost to install. The Vortech is a very different animal. It is a linear charger and as such has characteristics more in common with turbochargers. The Vortech charger will give strong reliable boost according to the chosen unit, but you will loose that low down grunt the G lader creates. Altrernatively look after your G Lader and enjoy the car as is but maybe a little porting to spice things up? :lol:

A moment of weakness and empathy with a fellow enthusiast, still if we can't do this once in a while what's it all about? Hey the alcohol barter thing might have some mileage after all :lol: Easy lads though you have looking like an alky to forum visitors :lol: Anyway the going rate for a 20V conversion is a pub :lol:

THanks Roddy always nice to hear owners views of a product i believe to be top quality. Kev, the original oe system utilises a number of metals. The front section pipe work is a grade of stainless, the boxes are high grade steel with an aluminised outer case, the clamps are made of stainless etc. The Milltek system i can supply for your C VR6 would as Roddy says give a deeper note than the original but certainly not obtrusive. Moreover the quality is easily equal to the high oe standards and the fit is superb.

Cheeky B**g*r . Still if you don't ask you don't get. Just for the bare arsed cheek i gonna say YES :lol: ! Details on their way.

Hi Frostee, you live in Sandhurst Surrey? If yes this is not far from where i live in West Sussex. I have the tooling you require to complete this task. Can you bring the struts to my workshop? I would be happy to get your items fitted onto the struts call it a freebie, glad to help a frustrated stricken sole! :lol:

Hi Nigel, any "whistling" noises in the context of a G60 engine can typically be related to movement of boosted air through a restriction or leak to atmosphere. In your case it sounds like your ISV is allowing boost air to blow back through hence the whistling noise. Clearly without inspection hard for me to confirm but my first port of call would be to clean out the ISV with carb spray cleaner and refit. Your problem is more prominent at start up on cold engine due to increased idle speed at this phase. If ISV does not respond to cleaning then a fault is likely to be present. A re-route kit will relieve the symptoms but not cure the prob overall.

For me the sound an exhaust makes is of secondary interest as firstly and most importantly it must work in ballance with your engines needs. Sure cosmetic issues are important to any enthusiast, ie tailpipe design and sound but these can be addressed on any system once the engines needs have been satisfied. The sound of a system is largely dictated by bore size and the number and presence of absorbtion / silecer boxes. The cat is effectively a hybrid of these two types of box in repect to it's influence on the path of gasses. All VW's use a very high quality cat core which offers minimal resistance to flow, and inherantly some quietning to sound. The ultimate system for your C is one that has been made to suit your needs. Be prepared to pay more for this product, but like all things in this life you get what you pay for. I have experienced the products created by Janspeed, Jetex, Supersrint, Sebring, Scorpion, Mongoose and Magnex. I use and sell Miltek!!! Draw your own conclusion.

If ever a thread was "red rag to a bull" ! If this computer phobe had a digi camera i'd gladly post some pics!! Car will follow me to next NoRice meet hope to see some of you there. Offer still stands regards assistance to any of you guys, even though these days i am a Poacher become Gamekeeper.

GsixT, so many questions! I have owned a G60 since 1993 and being a complete petrol head have tried nearly every stage of modification going and completed all installation work myself. This year i completed the build on a 16VG60 engine and have been running this now for some months, and lovin it! If i can be of assistance in satisfying your curiosity then please do get in touch, or feel free to visit my workshop.

Dboy, I have just finished developement of a large bore performance stainless steel system specifically made for the Corrado G60, although could also fit the 16V. This development was done in conjunction with Miltek, for whose product we are reccomended suppliers. The system has a much larger bore than the regular Miltek option and can be complimented with a re-developed high flow stainless steel down pipe which fits directly to the cast manifold. I would add at this point that i port out the cast manifold to maximise the flow. This system leaves you in no doubt that the engine is running, and is a significant component if your G60 is pushing 225 plus BHP. The system was originally designed to work with the increased amount of exhaust gasses created by my 16VG60. The system costs £550, and the downpipe is £250. I charge £85 to port out a cast manifold. No panel mods are required to fit this system and the single oval fits the oe bumper cut out. As this exhaust was cutom built for the car it also fits superbly well and will not create any knocks or undesirable rattles.

They look exactly like that when supplied in the box! Once fitted however the only part left on show is the gear knob. The component is intended to mechanically enhance the car not astheticly. If you want shorter gear selection movement fit a B&M or it's equivalent, if looks are the priority try an aftermarket gear knob. Conversely you could have both with a VW Motorsport gear shifter.

I have the B&M short shift in my Corrado, sorry to dissapoint, but to look at it is the same installed as the OE item. All the engineering sits in the OE housing and is therefore covered by the gator. Are you perhaps thinking of the motosport style shifters, which are a radical departure in appearance terms from the OE shifter?

G lader should be rebuilt every 45,000 miles as a maximum, clearly one could do this soooner if the unit was being put under greater strain. With regard to the removal of boost hoses, any competant individual could do this work with little effort in even less time. We offer this sort of inspection FOC as it is so elementary.

I used to be a user of Mer polish and anything else to go with it in order to achieve a clean waxed car. Since i was shown the resulting shine and superior finish created by SWISSOL products, courtesy of John Wintle, i would not put any other product on my Corrado. I bought a Shield Wax kit and sure at about £155 it is more money than your standard Sunday wash day kit, but don't loose site of the fact that this kit contains generous quantities of each product and will serve your needs for years to come and create a paintwork finnish that will have you considering cup winning standards. Furthermore the kit comes in a purpose made holdall that neatly stowes in your car and can be complemented with many other products to suit your needs. It would cost you nothing to contact John Wintle for more info and i could not reccomend a better product.

From road to race, start to finish PD Motorsport has got you Dubbed.

Thanks for your interest please contact me on my phone, details on our web site, or see us at Inters. Would be happy to discuss our induction mods and price info. Look forward to hearing from you.

Saucer of milk , Sir?