16VG60

Stoph, re your desire for more power. You can reliably expect to uprate your 16V 's output to 179bhp as a normally aspirated engine and this i have done without problem. Your wish list requests 200bhp, sorry mate not going to happen from a road car in normally aspirated trim. To cross this threshold you need to get blown :lol: A G60 conversion would be the way to go and in any case what is the sense in throwing everything at an engine to uprate it to this spec, when the power you want already exists in another engine that is going to fit straight into your bay. Again i have done this conversion and can tell you it will give you the result you want, and furthermore the result you will be after later on!

Hi guys, B&M fitted to my C and goes a treat, slick changes with ease. Needs care when fitting and one or two little mods make all the difference. If fitted right will give very worthwhile results. If anyone does not fancy the fitting but wants the results drop me a line.

Forcefed, the kit is comprised of all new parts ie Alloy TT calipers and carriers, pads, hub units with bearings, discs, adapter plates, brake lines and fixings. KIt Cost is £800. This can be supplied for 4 and 5 stud wheels. Dazzy my front conversion kit as detailed earlier can also be specified for 4 or 5 stud wheels. The front setup is tailor made not extracted from another car in the range.

Standard brakes work well on the standard car, if all components in the system are well maintained. If you are wanting to push the car a little harder and are therefore expecting performance beyond design spec then upgrade is the only answer. The VW part bin is well stocked these days with good upgrade parts, some of which have allready been mentioned. To avoid spending twice on the same topic, i would recommend you decide at this time what exactly you long term want from your C performance wise and invest accordingly. Before going 16VG60 i used Zimmerman drilled discs all round with EBC Greenstuff pads, to good effect. Since my mods to the engine however demand has changed in this department. On the front i use Brembo 4 pots with ATE drilled motorsport rotors mounted on alloy bells(to reduce unsprung weight). On the rear i have developed my own hubs to carry the G60 front Zimmerman discs working with Audi TT rear calipers. Braided brake hoses compliment the system along with ATE blue Racing fluid. Braking is positive and progressive and well matched to the cars performance.

King Prawn, as much as this thread seems to be becomming a Dutch Auction, it would seem appropriate to add my offering to your request. I think you are right to look at minimsing the hasle and take your business to a restricted number of companies. I can indeed supply you with a stage four rebuild on your charger ( you could go further than this if you wish!), an alloy rs type outlet fitted to the charger outlet, a dedicated oil cooler kit that has been created to specically fit your application and your shorter belt. I can supply these items via mail order and within your time frame. There are other reccomendations i would make as i have been tuning G60 engines since 1993, and should you wish further detail would be happy to discuss this with you. Contact info on it's way. On a final note the VR6 clutch idea, the standard clutch is a beauty and capable of handling alot more than folks give it credit, My C runs on the standard clutch, unless you are intending to do significantly more with your C than you indicate with your shopping list i would spend your budget elsewhere.

Top marks to Darren my thoughts entirely! In a VW world stuffed with 20VT engines in every consievable model and derrivative it's nice to be a little different but most of all the Corrado is famed for it's G60 powerplant and the unique sound which it creates. Take a ride in a 16VG60 powered car and then i think you will see the point we are making.

Aaight, happy to quote for fitting ride height kit inclusive of camber and alignment re-adjustment post fitting. I would be happier to conduct this conversation over the phone, you've got my details give me a call this evening. Look forward to hearing from you later.

Save your money fit the Konis, cruise low and keep all your teeth in place with the superior ride quality. Been here tried all the spring shock options and nothing comes close to Koni ride height kit.

The spurios noises are entertaining at first, and then in many owners experience become evermore tedious. A longer pipe from the throttle body boost return may ease the situation but will not make it go away. The only way to do something beneficial with this is to make it into another intake. I hear your prob with this but necessity is the mother of invention, in this case to remove the mother of noises :lol:

Andy, the coil pack is easy to find follow the HT leads to the point at which they all converge at the gearbox end of the cyl head. The isv is located under the inlet manifold to the right of the throttle body. this you will possibly find a little difficult to inspect without removing said manifold.

RobyD, the situation you describe sounds like a surefire case of blown head gasket. The test performed on your C for this with the blue fluid and the tubey thing, (sounds a phraise out of a Allo Allo script!) Will serve only to establish if the coolant has been contaminated by combustion gasses. You may well find that the breach is between a water and an oilway, hence the mayo. Sure oil coolers can give way but useually go big style owing to the thin alloy structure. Short jouneys can also course this effect like your man says, you don,t say whether or not this is applicable to you.

Blown, will interesting to see what gains you get from this manifold. Keep us posted.

I'm never going to sell my C, but live in the hope that one day a TVR Cerbera AJP V8 will sit along side it in my garage. :lol:

Mambo, in order to fit an airbox worth having here you do need to lower the rad location. I carried out this mod on my own conversion and later we did the same to Darren,s C. Although i might add we changed the setup on Darren's further to incorporate a different rad, as this suited his requirements better. This does make the process of creating another air inlet a little more long winded, but the best results never came easy. If you would like to discuss this further and what gains can be had drop me a pm.

The sort of figure it costs to produce a 16V G60 engine is not for the faint hearted. For the engine alone exclusive of labour, installation and rolling road tuning you are into £4000 easily. Still interested?

On your four branch manifold be sure to locate the lambda probe at a point as close to the egine as possible and where it can sample gas from all four cylinders. what system are you joining this to, and what is the current bhp output of your C?

Personally i would choose to install another air intake to the boost return side of the charger. This would keep the internal preasure balanced within the charger, and allow for a much improved induction of air. I agree with Dubcharged that this additional air intake must not allow warm air to be draw in.

I produced my own charge cooler system at the same time that Jabba launched their setup. I am sure Mike was well aware of the failings his system had and admitted this by withdrawing it from sale. I found my system to lend itself very favourably to the G60 engine install and furthermore gave consistantly good power gains 15 bhp over standard intercooler. This was as tested at AMD,s rolling road by Geoff. The charge cooler like many matters VW tuning had a fashionable era which has now passed, but don't be too quick to write them off. With my setup one could achieve vastly more efficient cooling of charged air, a shorter more direct route for charged air to the plenum and a neat compact install with only the cooler itself being seen. The only concern with charge cooling is how to keep a sustainable feed of cool water to the chargecooler. I had this nailed by using a 4 litre water capacity, front mounted full area radiator and marine industry pump. I would still be using this system, but it did not lend itself easily to my 16VG60 install.

Hi Rack, The PD Motorsport site is no longer "on air" since the company ceased trading last week. You will need to contact Darren via pm as he suggested. We are both still working with our respective areas of interest. I am sure Darren will welcome your enquiry.

Commonly found in this location is the electric window control box, although looking closely at your pic this does not seem to ressemble this. Are there any part numbers on it? Does this instalation look factory to you, ie cloth tape bound loom etc.

Kev, the bore size of this new stystem is 2 3/4" just a tad under your estimate. The reason for using this diameter tubing was to maximise flow but not to the detriment of fit clearances, particularly over the rear torsion beam. My thoughts on your proposed encorporation of my exhaust into your package is that it certainly sounds a credible blend, and should be a balanced combination offering significant improvements over the standard set up. I would be very keen to see the before and after results especially if backed up with rolling road data.

I have had a Bently Manual now for some 10 years and i can tell you that i paid £95 for it at GTI International! The manual itself is a reprinted collection of official VW wokshop literiture and is invaluable. It is a little disjointed in places but contains alot of what is needed to know, but not everything. The wiring diagrams are possibly one of the most useful sections. Forget the Haines manuals they don't come near. At £60 any Corrado owner who is practically inclined would be daft not to grab this offer.

I concurr with the points made by sc16V. I would add however that i have noted on a number of VR6 engines that the auxilliary electric coolant pumps are prone to weeping coolant. This weep invariably does not represent a significant coolant loss in it's own right, but in the early stages can give rise the the situation you describe. Might be worth inspection.

As a general guideline any injection pump that becomes significantly more audible is as a rule not long for this life. Unfortunately this typically is all the warning you get. In my experience this "noisy" condition can be a protracted affair or an instant death rattle. My thought on this matter is to replace the item before faced with a long walk in the rain!

Karmann, the system that i have just developed with Milltek comprises of a straight through pipe to the rear box. This system was developed originally for the 16VG60, but if you use G60 down pipes from the manifold this system would fit in the same way to your C.