16VG60

This noise will be your fuel pump priming the system prior to start up. Have you only just started to notice this sound or has it allways been evident? Reason i ask is that if it is a recent event you may find that your pump may be having difficulties in operation, either due to wear or obstruction.

Randal 24 if you think back to when i fitted your Milltek system, you saw this mod on my Corrado -------- remember?

The clamps are more expensive from VW because they are stainless steel and do not require to be replaced. The only problem one can encounter is the bolt rusting, in this case simply replace the bolt for a simillar cost to that of buying inferior pattern clamps.

The cable will be the problem. To confirm this all you need to do ,if you are reluctant to change it on spec, is to disconnect it from the car and check for free movement of the inner cable whilst keeping the whole item formed in a "u" shape to simulate the route it follows in the car. You will find that it will probably move freely when straightened out and the moment it is formed to follow any kind of curve it will become harder to operate. There is a very slim chance that your throttle valve has become restricted in movement, so whilst the cable is disconected test the free operation of this.

I would recommend the Zimmerman cross drilled discs from GSF, with either standard or Pagid fast road pads. Before i upgraded both my front and rear brakes i used these to good effect and have fitted them to many of my customers Corrados.

Colin, give me a call if you require some guidance with regard to your proposed plans for building a 16VG60. I am happy to discuss the numerous options one has for building these engines, and indeed the other mods required in order to ballance the package. I see you are a Kentish man, not that far from me at all. Perhaps you could drive over to my workshop and i could then illustrate in more detail, i know this arrangement has helped others like yourself to comprehend this kind of project.

Surely the simple answer to your question is to go and drive the Corrados yourself, and then base a decission upon this experience. Each of us on the forum will have an opinion on each model in the range, this will be biased upon current or previous ownership. You are the one who is going to make the investment and have to live with the decission, sure we can tell you our thoughts but it's your satisfaction which is sought. The forum can provide you i'm sure with enough test drives to make even Jeremy Clarkson look like a beginner. Anyway we all know G60's are the best :lol: 8)

The clip is a method of capturing the nut for removal and installation process. All trhings being in good order it works extremely well. Sadly, however the ravages of time and corrosion have eaten away at yours and rendered the clip u/s. You could remove it altogether or replace it with dealer part.

There is no immediately obvious corelation between removal of the battery and upon re-fitting experiencing a noise from the fuel pump. This i feel is just coinsidence. Have you noticed any other defect that may sugest anything more conclusive with regard to the fuel pump operation? If not then a simple fuel delivery rate check would put you at ease as to it's operation. You might also check that the fuel filter has been changed because your noise could be owing to partial starvation and susequent cavitation of the pump. The only other cause of noise is some defect with it's mounting allowing vibration.

The adjustment on the top of these dampers will control the degree of rebound dampening of the spring movement, after the initial depression. If you are having to adjust these dampers to the maximum amount of rebound control, just to stabilise a "bouncy" ride quality, then i would suggest that the springs are under rated for the weight of the car. This is of course assuming that the units fitted are in good working order and not tired second hand items. Which indeed if it were the case would again create through wear a underated spring and worn dampening operation. Best value for money buy at the mo, FK Konisport coilover kit, have fitted this to both Corrados and GTI G60, some 9 kits to date, and have been impressed no end by the operation of these kits.

If you are going to wait a few weeks after the suspension swap before getting the camber and toe adjusted best you budget for some new tyres as well !! This is not an optional task, it is as much a part of the job as any other component to be fitted.

Stands to reason given that the cooling system is closed in operation, if you are having to top up regularly you are loosing water from a leak. A cooling system pressure check will help to determine the source if it is an external loss. Failing this a check of the coolant for traces of monoxide contamination would help allong with other info to determine if you have a cylinder head problem. VR6's have some typical locations to find coolant leaks; weak valves in coolant res' cap, thermostat housing, water pump to thermostat housing transfer pipe O ring seals, auxilliary coolant pump, ageing hoses splitting just above the fastening clip. It is important to find the cause of your water loss, because it will not get better and will potentially be the cause of further damage if not sorted.

Goodridge, you might be putting the cart before the horse here! You want everyone within a certain radius of your new toy to know that you have a G60, that's cool, but lets get the sequence of things right. By carrying out the progressive stages of tuning to your G60 you will allow it in turn to reward you with the unique howls, whistles and even roaring that all G60's are infamous for. Before you start tuning however fisrt be sure that your basic engineering is in good order and that you are not going to be causing further strain on worn components. The main concern on a G60 of unknown heritage is the charger, which requires rebuilding at 40,000 mile intervals, when was yours last done? The basics being sorted you can then start your quest for NOISE !! The first stage would include induction mods, exhaust and cat mods, chip and smaller pulley for the charger, and possibly a stage 4 charger re-build. where you go from here is down to your personal aspirations and budget, but if done well and quality parts are used and fitted by a G60 specialist you will have a much more responsive engine and no need for any other ICE install, the G60 music will ring out. For the ultimate sound from a G60 engine, treat your ears to the sound a 16V G60 makes as it winds up to 7000 RPM.

Timo, the bolts to which Woody refers are for the lower fixing on the front struts. These bolts are used to give extra adjustment capability when setting the camber on the front suspension. Typically you will need a pair of these bolts, one on each side, to be fitted in the upper of the two bolt locations found at the base of the strut. These bolts are readily available from dealer for a nominal cost, the part no. escapes me at the mo but i am sure someone on here will supply this detail before i have time to refference Etka. As an aside you will need to have the front wheel camber and alignment set after having fitted your chosen kit. Good luck with your purchase. Moreover i look forward to hearing about this G60 you are going to see.

It will remove the obstruction, such as it is, presented by the cat matrix. Unfortunately however the empty can that is left behind will not do much by way of improvement to exhaust flow and increasing power not to mention resonance. The proper way to do things here is to fit either a cat by-pass or a sports cat. Are you thinking of just altering / changing the cat on it's own or are you also going to change the system? There are nominal gains to be had from restricting your efforts to just the cat. The real improvement worthy of your effort would be found in changing the system and cat as a package. Should you require further improvement then the manifold and front pipe can be gasflowed and changed for higher flow items respectively. I think i have offered you a quote regarding a system and cat by-pass, please give me a call if i can offer any further assistance.

Timo, my personal recommedation at the mo are the FK Konisport coilover kits. Have fitted a number of these to Corrados of late and everyone has been very pleased with the ride quality. They are a little more money than you have listed for the kits you mention but i think it would be money well invested. Have a chat with Woody if you want some owner feed back. Club GTI are running a group buy on these for a very good price, another of my customers has signed up to this and i will be fitting these shortly. If the group buy has closed give me a call as i have an arrangement with Richard at Venom to buy at a better price.

Ok, i stand corrected. you will have to find another 42 pence :lol: You Partsmen :-P

Some kind of cruel budget your running on here !! The 1 metre long vac hose for the ECU is excellent quality from dealer and at £6 tops is not going to kill anyones wallet. Go on ring your dealer i'm sure they will quote you happy.

With my personal experience of fitting numerous Milltek systems, many of these to VR6 Corrados, i am suprised to read your comments regarding your own application. You say that you had to make all new mounts just to achieve a fit that was acceptable? Are you sure you were supplied the correct system for your car? I have spoken to another Corrado owner who told me on the outset a simillar tale. Later upon inspection it transpired that the Corrado in question had originally been supplied as a 16V and had been converted to VR6. Hence the hangers were all wrong to accept the later VR6 system. Did you contact the supplier to question your difficulties with the system? If so what was the outcome? I know that if Milltek had been consulted at any stage regarding your issues they, as indeed so would i, not rest until you were satisfied with your investment. I have never experienced any difficulty with fit or installation of a Milltek system, it is this fact coupled with their proffesionalism that inspired me to become an agent. I would not sell a system knowing that such difficulties would be experienced, and niether would i expect my customer to go to such lengths to achieve the desired result.

Give me a call, or drop me a PM. Do not despair just yet.

There are a number of favourite oil leakage locations on the 16V engines, assuming that your engine did have oil in it after the works to your head gasket were completed. 300 miles without lube would surely have lunched your engine. Obviously you need to refil the engine and then observe for leaks. If the engine is allready showing signs of a leak then a steam clean prior to future observation would help locating the fault. Here are some of the top culprits; oil pressure sensors, distributor, valve cover gasket, sump gasket and crankshaft oil seal. The oil pressure sensors leak out from the electrical terminal and can loose an amazing quantity of oil. There are of course many other points from which oil can leak but these i have found to be the most common. You might also check the security of the oil filter given that this would likely to of been changed when your head was done. In any case and in the interests of preserving your engine i would certainly not drive your C another mile until this question is answered.

Without more detail my friend we will all be at a loss to help. Essentially you need to go back to basics and contemplate that if you have got fuel, air, spark and compression your engine will run. Check these basic ingredients first and straight away you will start to form a diagnostic picture. You say your fuel pump is ok, on what do you base this statement? have you checked the fuel delivery rate or just heard the pump whirring when the ignition is switched on? I take it your ISV test was to hear / feel it buzzing with the ignition on. A cautionary detail before you do anything else would be to check the cam belt is ok. This tale rings true of another owner i spoke to recently! If you check these basics in a logical sequence and still find you have a problem give me a call and i will offer you further assistance based upon your findings. Good luck.

THe figures you list seem quite within tolerance. The MPG reading is allways a little variable dependant on your MFA. These on board read outs can range from conservative to down right ludicrous. Still that being said 27 mpg for the Corrado is about right for the type of driving you describe. Don't be fooled here by others with 16V MK2 Golf's, their car is lighter and inherently will return better MPG than the Corrado by comparison. With regard to tuning and the 16V in respect of CO% settings the tweak with K Jet cars is allways to set them just a little richer to prevent them leaning off at top end. The exact settings will depend upon the individual engine and the mods it is running.

LSD deffinately a must have gearbox option. Got one in mine to help with getting power onto the road and enjoyed the benifits ever since. Only downside is installation is not a DIY and it is advisable to get a specialist in this field to do the job. The work is not particularly difficult it just envolves the use of specialist tools to strip out the components. The gearbox has to be completely dismantled to fit the diff so best to get everything done at the same time. Not the cheapest of jobs but most certainly worth the investment.

And so the forum grows. Welcome, to another Corrado owner and a G60 at that, damn good taste to buy the pick of the bunch! I agree with all the posts on this fuel topic. I have used Optimax since it was introduced and it deffinately produces the best results. Have not tried BP Ultimate yet but have heard this too gives good performance gains.