16VG60

Would be a good idea to just check the fixings that you had this garage sort out for you. The reason being, that the adopted method for releasing seized allen bolts in that type of calliper is to cut away the dust boot and turn out the bolts with stilson wrench of the appropriate size. I have then seen, after this kind of "fix", the old chewed bolts re-fitted with chopped up dust boots which in time then rust firmly into place making the next pad change even worse. You may indeed be pleased to find that they have fitted new bolts and dust boots, but all the same i would check because you know who is going to pick up the headache and the bill !!

You ask a question that i hear from some of my customers, and this is what i tell them. Tuning a car is all about a ballanced package of components working in harmony together, not individual items. The German's produce great packages that are well ballanced for the use to which they are intended. If you want to keep this ballance but at the same time improve BHP and torque it comes at a price. To look for the BHP advantages from just one component investment is, with all due respect, the response of an accountant. I understand that all of us have a budjet to spend, so all the more important to investigate the right ballanced package for your needs. If you do your homework right you will get the results you desire within the budjet. At the moment you have a stage four charger, if you want to improve upon this you not only have to do the charger but all the other components around it to keep the ballance and see the benifits of the increase in charger capability.

For the original system that is truly incredible service life, my own lasted for 7 years. Give me a call when you decide what move to make, i'm sure there is a Milltek system in my stock room with your name written upon it :lol: Have you seen the price that i can offer a Milltek Sports Cat for?

After having worked on numerous Corrado suspensions i will have to differ with the general view as regards the replacement of your springs. Having carried the weight of your Corrado for 12 years and the last 102 K miles i think you will find that they have earnt a rest!! The springs have in my experience an effective life of 70 K miles or 6 years, after this they are on extra time and will require changeing depending upon who gets there first be it the MOT tester or the owner. Supension wear is such a gradual process invariably, that it is often overlooked until such time as it is replaced and the drive is remarkably restored to a new previously unknown standard. If you are restoring the suspension on any Corrado of this age and mileage i would strongly recommend doing the full job including all the bushes, ARB links and rear torsion beam bushes. If you do this you will be the second person in your Corrado's life to enjoy the true handling prerformance of this superb Coupe.

Agree with Henny's comments 100%. The rad for the G60 is a dedicated item and irrespective of overall size the matrix surface area and depth has been carefully calculated in true Germanic style to cope with the cooling requirements of this engine. So good indeed is the cooling efficiency it easily copes with the cooling requirements of my 16VG60 which is way beyond the OE design spec. I strongly recommend you retain the G60 rad in your transplant, indeed it is normally an advantage to find a rad with such efficiency and so compact when carrying out transplant works.

You can smash out the ceramic matrix that forms the internal structure of your cat if you like, but i would check out replacement cost first!! The new item is enough to chill the blood, and to buy second hand you will be looking at at least £50 for something halfway decent. As an MOT tester i can tell you that we do not give a hoot as to whether or not a presented vehicle has a cat fitted or not. A cat not being fitted is not a reason for rejection, failing the relavant emissions test is. If you are seeking better flow from your exhaust system and are obligued to comply with the cat emissions at MOT then you have choices. firstly fit a performance cat back system to give improved flow. Keep the oe cat to meet the emissions test with 100% certainty. Fit a cat by-pass pipe for 364 days of the year then replace the oe cat for MOT testing purposes. Fit a sports cat which will give you much improved flow and meet the MOT emissions test without the annual shananigans. With regards to what aftermarket system you chose, well i'm biassed but for good reason Milltek is the only choice for me, that's why they are fitted to all my cars and i sell them to my customers. Why Milltek? They are built to the highest standards, they fit very well as good as the oe system and do not knock on the chassis, they are not loud and booming but instead give a deep subtle tone that purists and racers find acceptable, they offer a full range for all Corrado models and are guranteed for life.l

The current retail on an OE system from dealer (cat back) for a Corrado 2.0 16V is £290 inc Vat but not including clamps, with standard parts warranty. I am currently offering Milltek stainless steel cat back system for this car at £249 inc vat, clamps and a lifetime warranty! Interested ? Have a look at the tuning section ref Milltek systems and custom made products or send me a PM for more details.

You could replace the oe cat with a Sports Cat which has a more open internal matrix offering higher flow whilst still meeting all the MOT requirements. If this is too rich for your budget you could fit a Milltek Cat By-Pass pipe, but as previously stated would have to swap it back to the OE cat for the MOT. You may however be lucky enough to be able to meet the cat emissions standard without reverting to the OE cat, a simple emissions check once the Cat By-Pass is fitted would confirm output. I have customers, whose cars do just this. Have a look at my thread regarding Milltek Systems and Custom Made Products for special offer prices to forum members.

All systems onto the Corrado are easy to fit given that you have a reasonably well equipped tool box. The harder part of the deal is removing the old system. Many of you will find the oe system is a one piece unit over the rear torsion beam and cutting is the only way to remove it, this may sound a simple option but if you consider the lack of space and the thickness of the steel it becomes a little more daunting. Even when you have a jointed set up corrosion has often welded the two together. I have armed myself with chain cutters, air chisel and oxy acetylene to gurantee removal in an acceptable time frame. For those of you without such kit sure have a go you might be lucky, and the system yields to your attack. You might however be wise to enquire at your local exhaust centre as to the cost of fitting. Not only will you be spared the frustration but furthermore you will have someone to address should problems arise.

I have been running toothed belt drive for 3 years now on the same charger coupled to both 8V and 16V G60 engines without any problems or negative aspects to the health of my charger. I know we all go looking for the "catch" these days but there isn't one with this system. The benefits are as i described previously. I have never bothered with getting a before and after dyno plot with regards to toothed belt system. The reason for this being that the facts are plain to see. The serpentine belt does allow slippage, extra tension is applied with the serpentine belt. These facts are addressed with toothed belt drive.

Having fitted and supplied Milltek systems for some time now i can say that the fit of these systems is superb. I have experienced most aftermarket systems available and concluded that Milltek offered the best package. I would suggest that if any of you have experirenced poor fit problems with a Milltek system then it is going to be a fault with the installation not the system itself. I have fitted Milltek systems to every model in the Corrado range including custom built systems and have NEVER experienced problems with fit or the dreaded knock on the rear torsion beam. If any of you have a Milltek system that is displaying these problems then you can call me for assistance or indeed get the installer to do a proper job. Milltek invest a great deal of time into research and development and until such time that the product is 100% right will it be released into the market. VW Motorsport use exclusively Milltek systems even their transporter is fitted with one, if it puts a smile on the Germans faces i'm sure it will do the same for you. Milltek systems are not a "pipe dream" they are a reality. :lol:

The main advantage of tooothed belt drive is the guaranteed loss of belt slip, but furthermore it will also allow the belt tension to be reduced, creating less pressure upon the bearings in the alternator and waterpump therein giving longer life to these components and reduced frictional losses to bhp. Henny, who has penned a valid response to this subject himself, uses a set of my toothed pulleys and will soon anounce the bhp of his new engine install, which will have significantly benefitted from having toothed belt drive. As to cost, i offer sets of toothed belt pulleys with either 68mm or 72mm charger pulleys for £340 plus P&P. With regards to the crank toothed pulley, my system will accomodate the power steering V belt pulley directly without the need for modification to the oe inertia damper. This allows the install to be much easier avoiding further machining costs and indeed also allows oe components to be preserved and re-installed should the need arise.

Alex, i have the VW tool for this job. I am doing alot of thses bushes now because of the age of the Corrado. The tool Costs £400 so not keen to loan it out, but give me a call if you want me to fit. Likewise if any other forum members require this task to be carried out. Rear bushes are an unpleasant job, but made simpler with the correct tooling.

Yes, the sandwich plate you require is the same. Be sure to purchase the plate with stat to prevent over cooling the oil.

Like all these mods it can be done, but why. The cost can not be an issue as they are sensible money to buy. Further to the other differences allready highlighted, the anti-roll bar mounts are different too as they incorporate drop links. As i say, can be done but one would need a very good reason.

I phoned DVLA to satisfy my curiosity as to whether the plate i wanted had ever been registered to a car. Their reply was simple, No. So i bought it! G60 PJM, quite simply my car and my initials. I couldn't have one of those artistic interpretation plates, being an MOT tester i could hardly tell our friends in blue that i didn't know! :lol:

The battery you have bought is fine for the job. For your ref the VW recommended part no. is ZGB 561 011 054.

Corrado ABS system is a good piece of kit, gives a slightly remote pedal feel than the early non-ABS cars but as ABS systems go suffers very little to the Gremlins, other than wheel sensors, in my experience. As for retro fitting it i once considered this back in 1994 and bought what i thought was the entire kit. Although however on closer inspection found that a whole load more was required at considerable cost. You will need: pump unit, servo with sensor, master cylinder and reservoir, fluid transfer pipework to pump from reservoir, 2 x heat shields, pump mount bracket, hydraulic pipework and unions, ABS control unit, wiring loom, ABS wheel sensors x 4 and wiring supports, wheel sensor rotors x 4, front wheel bearings x 2 ( owing to install requirement of rotors ), dash warning light etc. The only advantage there might be now as to back in "94" is that there are many more breaker options. If you are still keen on this------- GOOD LUCK! Personally i opted for the other option, cadence breaking!!

I have had a number of customers now with this same problem, and some of these delayed the inevitable by labouriously cleaning the dizzy internals on a daily basis!! In the end however alll of them squared up to the fact that replacement was the only answer. You say that your dealer price is £150, is this because of p&p costs or just the going rate? Why don't you try to contact Germany direct and get one sent via UPS. This may reduce the cost to you considerably. Good luck.

This, as the dealer has allready informed you, is a commonly occuring fault. Sadly you will not be able to replace the seal, and the only cure is to replace the dizzy with a new item. The dealer currently offers exchange service units at a cost of £80 apprx. These units are reconditioned by Bosch and come to you complete and ready to bolt on. The dealer will want your old unit complete with cap and rotor arm, as indeed the replacement comes equally equippped. All told these are a good buy, and i would reccomend you to follow this path therein rectifying your problem. Do not be tempted to buy second hand, a false economy, as these often display the same deffect straight away or very soon after.

Chris, not a fan of induction kits as i have let be known before. My main dislike is that they allow warm engine bay air to be drawn in. Why not adopt the well publisised practice of an airbox mod and K&N filter panel. I have used this conversion on many G60's now and it allways gives good results, when properly executed. If you require any assistance with details i would be happy to help. If you still wish to proceed with your cone filter aspirations, please don't drill your airbox in the interim, i'll buy it from you for my stock cupboard!

Thanks for the appreciation, she's a pleasure to drive and has no need for any ICE. All the music is free courtesy of my own I year build and install. I look forward to meeting you all at Inters.

As Henny has allready announced i do indeed run twin air inlets on my charger. The game here being to maximise the intake air potential, essential when seeking greater Bhp output. In order to achieve a second air intake worthy of the task in hand, i needed to create sufficient space to install a second custom built air box. This entailed making bracketry to allow the radiator to be dropped level with the base of the headlights, opening the front grille area for this mod. I would add at this point i do run an RS2 front front bumper which also houses an RS2 Intercooler. I then designed an airbox around the K&N MK1 Golf GTI panel filter. This filter was later adapted to accomodate the boost return pipe from the throttle body ( the continual hissing of dumped air was not bearable). The objective was achieved by this mod, but as to what it sounds like i can not tell you. The additional intake of air is overidden by the S5 charger wailing, the toothed belt whine and all 16 valves of G60 propelled Corrado belting out it's unique roar.

The only cure for the paintwork on your door handles is to have them re-sprayed. As regards carbon fibre parts you might like to get in touch with Richard Tweedle of All Smiles, Richard is a specialist supplier of carbon fibre components and may well be able to help you. Contact Richard on 07970 422554.

Top of the class for you Steve, whilst reading this thread i was readying myself to write a simillar response. Even now, with the wealth of information available, i still see owners making the fatal mistake of fitting standard long stroke dampers with shortened springs. The results of such combos are awful and i would prefer the OE "wheel barrow" look. Matched damper and spring kits are readily available and furthermore have dropped significantly in price with the introduction of coilover kits. In the early days of my ownership i used a Boge lowering kit with Jamex springs, which i found to be better than the kit items. This setup has since given way to Koni coilovers and in my opinion these are the pick of the bunch. I run 17" wheels and have dropped the ride height as much as i dare, with our roads, and still retain significantly better ride than with other options.