16VG60

With this system, Yes.

Spoier, I have always used the location below the G charger for Corrados retaining the OE intercooler. Although i have not encountered an air con compressor obstacle before, it should still stack up as an easy install. You express concern for it being subject to a hot engine bay in this location. This again i have never found to be a factor. I, when using this location, will open up the front lower grille slats to allow air to pass through and this is sufficient to counteract any concern you may harbour.

The standard downpipes cause a significant restriction to exhaust flow they were costing my 16VG60 about 15 bhp as far as could be established by rolling road evaluation. Performance gains from exhaust mods are purely relative to engine state and tuning but you will notice a difference given that you are running with a good quality system. These front pipes will marry up with your system as long as your setup retains the three bolt flange that does/did connect to the cat. Cost of these custom built high flow pipes is £250 plus p&p. I am taking orders now that will be built ready for delivery in the first week of November. I hope this answers your questions, if i have left anything out please get in touch with me.

I agree with Dan whole heartedly about the use of Toothed belt drive on the G60 engines. So convinced was i about it's importance in the search for performance in my own cars that three years back i set about designing my own system. At this time the only toothed belt system available was of Euopean origin and utilised a squared tooth form like that of a cam belt. These pulleys were known to produce very much shortened belt life because of this tooth form, and therefore were a high maitenance option. To counteract this problem i opted to use the 8mm HTD (High Torque Drive) rounded tooth form, which was not so inclined to shorten belt life and has proven indeed to give good service and reliability, a must for any road car. Clearly not having the manufacturing processes to hand that one would need to take my idea from paper to product i approached a company to enlist their services. A prototype set of pulleys was made and i started down the road of testing these prototypes with various belts and tensioners. These prototypes were made from high grade alloy and were in polised machine finish, they looked great reminicent of the top fuel cars,however it would soon become apparent that this was not hard enough to endure daily use so, i opted to have them hard anodised in a steel grey colour. During the developement i also found that to aleviate the tendancy of the belt to run off the pulleys additional guidance was required. I swapped the OE belt rollers for 8 Valve cambelt tensioners and encorporated retaining rings on some of the pulleys which sorted this problem. Still all the service parts were from the VW source. All told it took a year of developement to come up with the final design that has proven itself to have all the positive attributes i sought , combined with the quality and reliability making it worthy of installing onto any VW G60. It was at this time that i met Liam now of Pitstop Developements and he was keen also to persue toothed belt drive, but this time for the G40 which he owned. I extended to him my design concept and the details of my chosen manufacturer and it was not long before his G40 was accordingly equipped with identical pulleys but altered for the G40. Always a pleasure to help another enthusiast. I thought that this product would have true potential to sell well to the G60 fraternity and initial signs were good, i sold 12 sets including Two of these to Volkspeed one of which was fitted to their project 20V G60 Rallye the other to a customers Rallye later featured in Performance VW. Despite all the advertising it was clear to me that this product was not quite the mover it should have been, only a handfull of G60 owners recognised it's significance the remainder prefering to fit items that gave immediate returns. To recover my costs i also had to sell this kit at a price which albeit £200 cheaper than the only other alternative was probably just too much for some. I have since decided to shelve this product as part of my past achievment, but still believing that as a product it is instrumental in achieving strong results from any G60 i would rather offer others the opportunity i gave to Liam previously. My chosen manufacturer was Pace Products who are now well known as intercooler and chargecooler manufacturers. Contact these guys and i am sure they will be happy to entertain your business. Clearly they will want to produce multiple sets so a group buy would be the best approach. You should be able to purchase each set for £250 purchasing belts and tensioners elswhere. You will need to ask for production based on my design. I am aware that Darren of G-Werks is in the throws of launching his own product having previously run my pulleys on his G60. I wish him well with the sale of this new line and will be interested to see how these differ from my own design. Hopefully for him the awareness i worked hard to create in the benefits of toothed belt drive will now have soaked in giving his sales a better opportunity. In the mean time i am proud of this personal achievment and would recomend toothed belt drive to all G60 owners as part of their top ten mods. I will be happy to offer advise or guidance to any who require more info on this subject in particular with adapting toothed belt drive for custom engine install.

Stevo29, the Corrado as i am sure you are aware shares basic chassis characteristics with the Mk2 Golf, and this has allowed me allready to fit this front pipe to one other Golf GTI G60. So Yes it will fit. The font pipe bolts to the OE manifold and utilises the six stud mounting, it then connects at the other end to the system using the OE three bolt flange. I would recomend that in order to get the best out of this mod you have your cast exhaust manifold ported and flowed. This is a service i can offer.

Backpreasure In a forced induction car exhaust system is deffinately undesirable, and furthermore if present will only serve to counteract boost causing a preasure wall. When i was developing my 16VG60 engine we encountered this situation on the first rolling road session. I was then running a ported and flowed 16V cast manifold, G60 front pipe and G60 Milltek Cat bypass system. The answer was to remove the primary restriction this being the OE G60 front pipe, and to design a larger bore full flow repacement. Secondly, given the engines ability to create substantially more exhaust gasses, to create a system that used the largest bore possible whilst offering the same high standard of fit in particular over the rear tosion beam. Milltek built both of these components and as predicted the second trip to the roollers saw the the required results. The front pipes will fit into any system that previously accepted the OE item and the whole system is good for both 16V and G60 Corrado's. I now sell the front pipe and high flow exhaust systems as an upgrade, and have just commissioned a batch of front pipes to satisfy customer orders to date. If any of you are interested please send me a pm for more details.

How many times do i see you guys enquiring about 16VG60 engines and asking the question who can help and what is required! Why do you think i use the forum name 16VG60 or is this too subtle? This time it gets even better, G60 has headed up his photo call with a shot of my engine " a clean custom install" ( thanks G60 your comment is appreciated). I HAVE BUILT MY OWN 16VG60 CORRADO AND WOULD BE HAPPY TO ASSIST ANY OTHER WANTING TO KNOW MORE. Yes this line of work is a business interest for me, but i am an enthusiast at heart and am happy to assist other like minded souls. As regards having such an engine, for those who are keen to keep a G charged Corrado despite the 20VT revolution, It is a whole bunch of work to create but entirely worth it. Stump pulling torque and a bark to make Cerberus sound like a lap dog! :lol:

Mike, I have two hoses spare and you welcome to them FOC, PM me if you are interested. Please let me know if it is the rears as fitted to the callipers or those fitted adjacent to the tosion beam mounts.

I have a very much lightened and ballanced flywheel fitted to my engine and have only noted improvements in pick up and performance over the standard slab. Stalling has not been a problem on pulling away, and excessive revs are not required to compensate for loss of inertia. the only aspect of this mod that does become apparent is the engine braking effect on overun. Given the mass of the standard flywheel i would recomend this mod very highly. I can supply on exchange basis lightened and ballanced flywheels for £125 plus p&p.

Hi Anthony, ref removal of your front pipe. The only way to DIY remove this item is taking it out from the top. This does entail unfortunately removing all the manifolds to give a clear path. It is still a little tight in places to extract, but none the less it will come out in one piece this way. Alternatively bolt it back up sufficiently to get it to an exhaust centre and they will be able to perform this task in much less time with greater ease, and will likely as not only make a nominal charge, getting you to your show.

Oil Cooler systems, a must for any forced induction engine or indeed any engine aspiring to higher performance use. I have been supplying / fitting tailor made kits for G60 and VR6 engines for some time now, and its good to hear Bannana Man's reccomendations for the one i fitted into his G60. I can supply these kits to suit one of two locations either below the charger or in the space once occupied by the oe intercooler, a third option is to have custom fit ie GTI G60 Golf etc. The cost of these kits is £135 plus p&p, and comes with stainless braided hoses, cooler matrix, stat sandwich plate and drilled mounting plate. I can offer fitting services or if you wish DIY install reccomendations. The oil cooler in itself will help to dramatically reduce engine temps but can be further complimented by fitting reduced temp fan switch and thermostat. As a cooling package this is highly recomended for standard or modified cars for removing the heat stresses from these engines.

Hi Purple-rado, the magnex cat back system you mention will not entirely fit your C. You say yours is an early 16 Valve with KR engine, the front pipe design is totally incompatible with that of the G60. On yours yopu will have a front pipe that runs straight into a silencer and then exits this with a sleeve joint. The G60 system front pipe conversely is much shorter and has no silencer as part of it and terminates just beneath the front bulkhead with a three bolt triangular flange joint. Another point for your consideration is that up to 92 model year apprx the early 16V and G60 Corrados had hook type hangers, this system was on later models changed in line with the VR6 to bar type hangers. I would strongly reccomend that you check this detail and no matter what the saving not attempt the conversion in order to make one fit the other. Given that the hangers maybe compatible the centre and tail box will fit your C as all Corrados are on common ground here. If the front pipe is the only difference then you may be able to purchase the appropriate interconecting section from the original manufacturer. Beware however that there may be tube bore size differences making this incompatible. I supply and fit Milltek systems and am of the belief that they offer superior fit and quality to many other options. This opinion i hasten to add is based upon personal experience of all the other manufacturers products. I could supply you with a dedicated system for your 16V and would guarantee you a no hastle snug fitting system that would compliment your C. Good luck with whichever route you choose to follow, and i hope this info will be of some assistance. I would be happy to help further if so required, send me a PM.

Mk4 rear alloy calipers will fit directly to the existing carriers and will accept the same pads. The only mod required is to the brake lines, given that all the late VW, Seat and Skoda cars use a banjo caliper connection as opposed to screw in conventional seated pipe. The way i accomodate this situation is to discard the complete trailing arm hard brake line and flexi. I replace this in turn with the late model item, which comes as a one piece affair and fits to the trailing arm as before. The alloy calipers in my opinion are the best replacement part for anyone in need of new calipers for whatever reason. These are far more resistant to all the usual problems suffered by the cast units, in the same way as the ATE alloy rear brake compensators have proven to be. Furthermore there is now an alloy caliper that will accept vented discs, yet again the VAG part bin provides the goodies.

Corrado31, coolant loss to this extent without external signs is unusual, 3 litres of water would certainly manifest itself be it staining of the block or profuse amounts of steam from the exhaust, sometimes described as white smoke. The cooling system is sealed and in the normal way only excessive presure can cause it to purge coolant via the expansion tank cap valve. Given that your C has lost/required 3 litres of coolant to return the level i would strongly recomend you seek an explanation prior to any further use. If i were to be checking this i would firstly carry out a thorough external examination of the engine for leakage signs not forgetting the interior for heater matrix. Secondly i would carry out a preasure check of the system with the apropriate tooling. Thirdly i would check the coolant for any signs of monoxide contamination, again using specific tooling. The VR6 does have a number of classic locations to weep coolant, and indeed when i recently sorted Rams VR6 a number of thses were evident. Please contact me via pm if i can be of further help.

There are clear gains in performance to be made by using smaller charger pulleys. Personally i would not recomend anything smaller than a 68mm for a road car. Buy wisely from a reputed source, as there have been pulleys sold that are made from sub-standard materials which can fragment under stress with disastrous results. The classic G60 stage one upgrade has been to change the chip and pulley and gain a 20+ bhp gain. The market is now awash with chips for the G60, some of which are questionable as to their alledged ability, i prefer to bring an engine to the spec desired and then have a specific chip made for that car, which brings together the package. A rolling road in your area would be able to help here, but do try to find one that can offer VW specific tuning. Ref "noise" from RSR type outlets :shock: , shame on you, the sound of your charger is sweet music and like all art should be given the freedom of expression and not stifled :lol: . Joking aside the increase in sound is not excessive indeed more complimentary.

My advice would be to save your money as regards the RSR outlet via BB, this item is very pretty but heavily priced and the same results can be achieved with oe parts. I use the optional VW G charger alloy outlet as for the engine specified with aircon part no. 191 145 755 cost £12.85 plus vat. To make this a finnished swap, to rid yourself of the black box muffler, i then use an adapter length of Samco hose to join with the i/c pipework. I port and polish the internals of this outlet to offer better airflow but in any case this is a good upgrade, and furthermore will make way for oil cooler pipework conversion.

Dear all, speaking from the position of myself being a "born again" polisher, i can highly recomend the Swissol product range. My eyes were opened earlier this year when having just completed my 16VG60 engine install, my attention turned to the dust covered bodywork on my C. To say i had my work cut out was an understatement, my car had been stored up for one year as the layers bore testament. Que John Wintle( i want to direct you to a clay bar) with his miracle cure! SWISSOL. In no time at all the clay bar transformed my coachwork from Badgers Arse to babies bum. Furthermore with each new product treatment the shine just got better. Now normally one would have gone through various stages of compounding, washing, leathering dry, waxing and buffing. Hours of laborious sweaty hard graft in search of a smooth deep shine. Forget all that, get yourself sorted with a Swissol kit and see the results after much less effort, it's not trickery just honest high quality product. Personally i will not use anything else. if i was Mr Kyam i'd be buying the company! :lol:

I have fitted this conversion to both Abs and non ABS equipped Corrados and in both cases the setup works well, as indeed it should for reasons already stated. I no longer use the Cupra R disc as i find them too heavy and they increase the unsprung weight. Instead i use lightweight racing rotors with alloy bells. As regards braided hoses i have my own made for the job as the Brembo callipers require a completely different hose to that of the oe kit. Fit is also important here for obvious reasons, to that end one must ensure that the hose is properly supported throughout it's entire range of movement. Wheel fit is the final consideration, and dependant on choice you must be ready to carry out proper mods to achieve correct calliper clearance and wheel fit. Some wheels, as has been stated, will not work with this brake upgrade. This conversion is easy to bolt on and well within the ability of most hands on enthusiasts. Conversely however it is not always so easy to have it working with all the same parts. As we are dealing with an essential system here if you are in any doubt about any of these details then i would strongly recommend you seek the appropriate assistance. Done well this is a superb mod and compliments the Corrado well.

Rob, With the money you get from selling this why not invest it back into your car and do the air box mod. This is a whole lot cheaper than an induction kit, does not require a heat shield and will not draw in hot engine bay air, will give a plentiful supply of cool air to your charger, and you will still get the induction roar as with the cone filter kits. If you are at all unsure about what needs to be done, then please contact me and i will be happy to talk you through this easily done DIY mod.

My 2L 16VG60 is built on a bored out G60 block and specific pistons with G60 rods. I can vouch for this as a way to go, and as for revs and ballance it's all there. These sort of mods need to be complimetary not regressive, i agree with the comments made regarding spec details. One needs to know what spec an engine is to become, although i could understand a supplier witholding the exact source of some parts for business reasons. With regard to TSR i have had close links with this company for some years and personally have always known them to be of sound integrity. Tim did stand down this year as MD, but his replacement Graham has worked as Tim's right hand man throughout much of the trading time of TSR. Graham is a mind of information and will i am sure continue the good name of this company. If any of you guys have an issue with TSR, or are unsure of their ability phone them up ask for Graham and he will be only too happy to help. Let's not right off a tuning house with rumour, after all they have survived for a long time in an extremely competitive market, and that is not achieved with poor product.

Thanks ramsey, always nice to hear from a satisfied customer. Headwork is a regular request, and to this end can offer a very attractive package. Irrespective of your location mail carriage closes the distance, and i can mail return your head. I charge £350 for an 8V G60 head to be rebuit, ported and flowed. For a 16V head i charge £450 and VR6 £550, all prices are plus P&P. I can supply gaskets at additional cost as to i can remove and fit. Distance is not a problem these days for such situations, and a good thing to, given the mileage between my location and that of my customers. I would be happy to discuss this matter further and meet your individual requirments.

Rack, the location i prefer for fitting oil cooler to the standard G60 engine is onto the crossmember under the supercharger. You will need to open up the air way from the lower bumper grille. I supply my kits with pipework to suit this location or as previously stated. The cooler rad will need anti vibration mounts on the lower fixings and a steadying strap at the top. Please comtact me if i can be of further assistance.

Thanks for your interest in further info ref my oil cooler kits. I sell these for £135 plus p&p. As regards their use, as mentioned previously i would strongly recomend that all G60 and VR6 owners fit this kit, being as both these cars produce significantly high oil temps which can be detrimental to perfomance. I'm sure you have all at one time or another opened your bonnet after a journey, and been hit by the heat wave that leaps out of the bay at you. Simply cooling the oil can help dramaticly to reduce this. There are are other mods but this is the more important one. Macca, you ask if my kit uses the oe oil cooler outlet. By this i assume you mean the filter head? My kit uses a thermostat sandwich plate to replace the oe oil cooler, in turn the sandwich plate provides pipe unions for the new cooler. Darren has kindly shown pictures of one possible location for the cooler rad, this idea came as a direct result of my 16VG60 developement wherein the oe intercooler had been removed to make way for my Audi RS2 item. Clearly this location will not suit you all but my kits are supplied with a choice of two pipe lengths accomodating two possible locations for the cooler. Oil cooling sadly is not the answer to stopping oil being burnt due to stem seal / valve guide wear. Yes, cooler oil has greater viscosity but not to this extent. If your engine has this problem the only cure is good old maintenance, or the short term fix might be to use higher viscosity semi-synthetic oil but we are only talking very short term if at all. Regarding any head work, be it oe part repairs or porting modifications, i would be happy to quote for any such works.

Oil cooling is one of the best mods to any of the Corrado engines particularly the G60 and VR6. I have been supplying dedicated kits for some time now and they include stainless braided hoses, thermostat sandwich plates and 19 row cooler rad. This package works extremely well and i would recomend all Corrado owners to make this mod.

Forcefed, conversion comes as a package and that way i know it will work and come together. None of the parts are "PDM" as this no longer exists, and this system was developed as a result of my need on my 16VG60. This kit took a while to develope so perhaps you might forgive me wanting to market it for a small return in lieu of this endeavor.