16VG60

I take it from that comment you have had a look and had little joy! Have you located the coolant tube on the front of the block? If so trace it along from the thermostat housing (noted by the three sensors fitted into it) looking at the far end of the tube next to the water pump on the lower surface you will see the drain plug, a small black plastic screw. Try again, good luck. A point to note is these plugs often get mangled by heavy handed operation, and are often coated in grime (appologies if your engine is show standard offering :oops: ) so may be difficult to see.

To what engine do you refer? The 16V and G60 engines are not equipped with a coolant drain plug, one would simply remove the radiator bottom hose to drain the engine. The VR6 however does have a drain plug located on the front of the engine in the coolant tube between the thermostat housing and the water pump. This is not easily viewed from above owing to the inlet manifold. More easily viewed from below. I hope this info helps your quest. As regards the refilling of the system i would srongly recommend VW G12 plus after a good flushing out.

We meet on every last Sunday in the month at 12.30pm apprx and typically carry on until about 3pm. Given the date of our next meet, and the generally festive nature of things, we are going to book a table and have a proper lunch as opposed to the usual bar snacks. The standard of food prepared by the Landlord Paul and his team is superb, so we should enjoy a great afternoon. Please let us know very soon if you wish to reserve a place for this Christmas Meet. This is a new venue which is proving to be very popular, and in common with the previous venue there is good parking and a large garden but none of the problems with tight access :lol:. Summer next year will see the return of BBQ / show and shine / autojumble events making this a top spot for the monthly gathering. For more details contact John Wintle or me, we look forward to seeing you at The Fox.

Good to meet up again Ian, hope you enjoyed a little Southern hospitality. We will all look forward to meeting up again on December 28th, that is if you are passing :lol:.

I have replaced a number of expired cast rear callipers on both Corrados and Golfs with the alloy Mk4 callipers, including my own Corrado which uses TT callipers with 280mm vented discs. The only results from this conversion are positive ones. The alloy callipers are far more resistant to the effects of corosion and fit with ease using the same spec pads. The brake lines are easily adapted to accomodate the banjo fittings onto the calliper. This upgrade is thoroughly reccomended and furthermore is not expensive direct from the dealer.

Milltek system will give you exactly what you want. Superb build quality and fit, combined with improved flow and performance. Noise levels are not an issue at all given that the exhaust note is typically a low growl. Not invasive but you know the engines alive, the way a sports coupe should sound.

Too much to list out on this thread, but hey why not try dropping me a line as Henny suggested, you could be the recipient of all the info you require to have a 16V conversion. I'm running this engine myself and just for starters, the head will fit straight onto the PG block, no the bolt pattern is not different the 8V niether are the oil/waterways, you will require different pistons, you will also require the intermediate shaft crank pulley and oil pump from the KR engine.

Good luck guys, genuinely hope it works out for you. Kind regards, John.

Interesting as allways to read your views on this subject. Perhaps an easier way to tackle this situation is to accept that the manufacturer will typically produce a product which is a compromise between the ultimate state and economical viability. VW have rewarded us with cars over the years that leave the factory better appointed than most, but still we find room for improvement. Exhausts are typically designed to create acceptable performance characteristics and quiet operation. In my system i have identified a compromise in the manufacturers product, which creates a restriction in the exraction of exhaust gasses. To overcome this i have increased the bore sizes and match ported adjoining components, without removing any of the key factors like fit or flexibility. This system i have used with good effect on both 16V and G60 engines all with capacity increases, achieving significant power gains. In the same way tubular manifolds have shown to improve extraction of exhaust gasses so does this package but without the risk of stress fracturing.

On the 16V and G60's i have tackled the manifolding issue by creating my own system. Mindfull of the well known situation regarding tubular manifolds, i chose to improve upon the oe design front pipes. I now supply a larger bore stainless steel front pipe that incorporates a non restrictive flexible joint, and furthermore will fit into the stock system or any aftermarket system. To enhance the package i recommend porting and flowing the cast manifold. The front pipes are £250 and porting the manifold is £80. The early 16V Corrados, not having a cat, need a cat by-pass pipe to overcome the removal of their oe front pipe which incorporates a resonator box as standard fit.

Just reading your posts ref Milltek systems and what you guys believe to be available. In alot of cases you are misnformed woth regard to price and availability . Please send me a PM with your needs and i will be happy to supply you with the info. I can supply Milltek systems for all models of Corrado, i can also supply Cat By-pass pipes for ALL models of Corrado. In addition to this i have for the 16V and G60's custom built large bore stainless front pipes. I can also supply big bore systems for all Corrado models. Prices and full specs available on request.

All dealer replacement clutch slave cylinders are plastic bodied items as of the last two years.

This "big double spring thing" wouldn't happen to be the front pipe flexi joint by any chance! This flexible joint can be re-located by design into another point in the front pipe but i would strongly recommend that a degree of flex is retained into any system. The engine will move with acceleration and deceleration therefore so will the upper end of the exhaust.

I have dealt with Milltek for some time now and am a registerd trade outlet of theirs. I have also worked closely with them to produce specific custom components relating to the Corrado systems. As Henny mentioned the main item of interest here is the large bore high flow stainless front pipe. I have supplied a number of systems allready to a many of you on the forum and would be happy to entertain a group buy package. To clarify, the systems that are available i can quite simply state that no matter what model you own i can supply a milltek system for it. For 16v and G60 owners you can have a full manifold back system. For VR6 owners currently you can be supplied cat back systems only. Cat by-pass pipes are available to order and can be fitted to any model but clearly your emmissions are likey to be affected and MOT standards may not be met for those with 1992 on Corrados. Let me know if you would like to move on this proposal.

Tug, details as requested on their way to you. All other enquiries for Milltek systems, custom built large bore front pipes, and Cat-Bypass pipes are welcome. Thank you for all orders received to date.

Sounds like an intermittent deffect in the circuit. There are a number of components that can give these symptoms. Firstly i would check the wiring between the dash display and the gearbox speed sensor. Secondly check the gearbox speed sensor for any fault particularly with the drive pinion. These items being ok would tend to indicate a fault with the printed circuit board, or the speedo head itself. This list is by no means comprehensive, but does serve to highlight some of the causes i have found to create these symptoms.

Andrew, i use VAG-COM system myself and part of buying into this product involves giving details of your location. Perhaps you might try logging onto the VAG-COM site and sending them a mail, asking them to put you in touch with a suitably equiped garage. Clearly they can not divulge their clients details but they could forward yours.

Tug, i can supply you a system as you require in stainless from the cast manifold back. This would be a Milltek system incorporating my Custom built front pipes. I have currently on order with Milltek a number of these systems due to arrive at the end of the month. Interested?

Andy, i currently have BBS 7.5 x 17 RX's fitted to my C. Up until this point however i too was in the same boat as yourself with regard to cost. My answer was to use Stillauto "Racing" alloys of the same size. These are a very high quality alloy and are almost identical to the RX. They have slightly curved spokes which if i am honest i preferred to the RX. South Coast Wheels in Southampton would be able to supply.

Two strange statements in the shortest of threads! Firstly an Automatic G60, secondly how exactly were you wanting to "service" your transmission. Is it all working well, or do you have a transmission problem? To the large part a service would extend to a fluid change and lubrication of the linkage.

Hi Woody, the bolts you require are readily available over the dealer parts counter and they will supply by description with ease. The important info here is to ask for two of the modified bolts, one for each strut, these bolts replace the upper of the two bearing housing location bolts and allow a greater degree of camber adjustment. This is essential when setting up the front wheel geometry after your replacement suspension has been fitted. The part no. of these bolts is N 101740.01.

Have you checked the fuel system delivery and operating pressures. The fault is occuring when the engine is under higher loading. Your problem could be with the operation of the metering head and aiflow sensor. It could quite simply be a matter of the air and fuel supply being unable to match the demand under high load, due to wear or blockage. Would recommend you have the fuel /induction system checked for operation as replacement therapy gets a little expensive.

Most of us are happy with a charger that produces strong reliable boost without the risk of detonation. "Whistles" come typically as a result of tuning and mods to the charger and it's associated pipework. Given that you are not wanting to tread this usual route to obtaing your desired "Whistles", why not fit into the boost return pipe your standard issue Acme referee no.1 without the pea as warbles are not strictly desirable

I use to good effect the Audi RS2 intercooler in conjunction with the Corrado RS2 front bumper. This intercooler is of the highest quality and is made by Behr. It is all alloy construction so takes modification to the end caps well. The best part is however that this i/c new from the dealer is under £250, mods need to added to this cost as would the RS2 front for a total price. End result however is pleasing front end facelift, tailor made location for the intercooler smack bang in prime air flow, two additional air vents for oil cooler / brake ducting, and the number plate stays put without ending up looking like an add on. Would be happy to give anyone thinking of going this route further info as required. This is a DIY mod with a little bought in asstance from local engineering / bodyshop. Something to do over the long Winter months and a new look for 2004 season :lol:

Sorry, no pics available at this moment. The install however is exteremly straight forward once access has been afforded by removal of the front bumper or removal of the charger. Either of these methods would allow you sufficient room to complete the install. I simply use flexi rubber mounts at the base of the cooler and a fabricated steadying bracket at the top. The front chassis brace provides a suitable fixing platform. An alternative that would require longer hoses but easy install and good air flow is perhaps behind the grille. You would need to re-locate the horns.