andycowuk

I dont know if thats a derogitory coment or not?? my point is that if you want to get your handling spot on to how you like it, you spend time and money choosing your dampeners and settings correctly, your spring rates, and other components that compliment your driving and the places you do your driving...... If you want your car to have "improved handling" (no sarcasm meant by the " "...just coining a phrase!) you stick std type suspension on and you will have acheived your goal

I have been in a golf with FK setup...the same as that used in the corrado, and I thought they were awful. Its all down to your own taste I suppose. How can you make such a statement? I know that you know this, but other might not..... There is more to good handling that just throwing on a suspension kit, and coilovers can be worse than std types as there is more to get wrong.

£45 or £50

I use a place called CLCM in Edinburgh - he gets porches, lotuses etc from the dealer down the road. its on the industrial estate on the west side of edinburgh, so not difficult to get to from M8. *edit - Heres the details: C.L.C.M Wheel Alignment 11, Bankhead Drive Sighthill Ind Est Edinburgh Midlothian EH11 4EJ Tel: 0131 458 5559

BBS and some others have radius seats for the bolts/nuts, where as the majority of other brands use 60 degree tapers make sure ur locking ones have the radius seat.

I just bought a pack for grim, £8.52. Can take some to kames if anyone wants.

it doesnt work like nos, it would be better compared to aquamist...... it is for cooling purposes.

you dont detail the bushes in the list of replacement parts......this will make a world of difference also. if they are the origonal itmes they will be soft and flappy......at the very least replace the 6 main ones.

try the stealer.... i got quoted a reasonable £17.50 +vat for the standard corrado bbs centre

I was all for the tooth belt system until I read this last night and it got me thinking..... the reason for the belt slip on the oe system is that it takes time to get momentum into the items being driven - primaraly the charger, if by putting a tooth belt system in place, I am eradicating slip, I am also erradicating the time taken for things to get up to speed, now this sounds good....... but at the same time raises a very big question in my head.......... What part of the charger bears the brunt of this increased force acting on it? and wont it lead to failure faster than would otherwise be experienced??

Oh yeah....forgot that you have to get the bugger on first........last time i did it was after fitting my head.....the reason I didnt replace the belt is that the one that was on had done zero miles! Also confused by the question - reads setting, not replacing! :oops: (it has been a long day!)

three parts to the job.....and none of them are removing a pulley!!! you need to line up the mark on the inner edge of the charger belt pulley to an arrow on the lower half of the timing belt cover, you need to line up the two dots on the cam pulley teeth with the edge of the head, and the rotor arm needs to be lined up with a smalll mark at approximately the 1 or 2 o clock position on the distributor body. This gives the approximate positions for setting the timing...... you can do it more accurately via other methods, but this way is good enough for most. (me included)

my mum just took me back the cast aluminium shrick sump from bbm yesterday.... :-P was going to get a cam shaft too...but decided against it in the end!

As far as I know this is how it goes.....but please correct me if I am wrong, as I hate not being sure about it! 16v rado, mk2 golf 16v 88> - 256mm discs, 4 stud G60/VR6 rado, Mk3golf 16v - 280mm discs, 4 stud/5stud mk3 golf vr6 - 288mm discs, 5 stud so if you want to upgrade from 256 to 280, then you need to get calipers, carriers, and pads from any, and discs from the g60. If you are buying new discs and pads, just quote your car as a g60 corrado!

Leda coil overs although they do normal struts and springs too - never heard any reviews on these, but i dont think they will be bad.

thats beaker int it? grim, the dash......look for the weather forecast, and let me know two consecutive days that will not rain next week - it will be done then.

I think I have broken cars for less!!!! have you tried to mess about with the key in the lock too (it does lock dosent it?? :oops: ) i will look at mine and report back in a bit, if no one else does first.

there is a wee pic of your car in the newest issue of Rabbit. Looks good.

can you always see the rubber seal going round the window, or do some overlap it?

its only about £70 for a complete distributor..... which means new oil seals, hall sender, cap and rotor. I still have that grilel for u too!

daves16v, before you buy those..... have a look at these threads....... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2952 http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9838 beavis has a supplier who makes sets up...cost me £35ish IIRC try him too.

regarding the total respray........ can you post pics of the areas which cause concern? Surely if these sections are repaced, as a good body shop would (not saying anything about your choice..... only that as yet, i dont think any one who is in the trade has posted) then you have nothing to worry about. The question is how much will vag charge for those parts????? Has JBS had the car up on ramps and given it a real good going over before quoting you? If this is how he has arrived at his 4k quote, and if you trust him, and he says 10 years.... he means 10 years - no?

leather, upholstry, dash and trim, glass, and car shampoo wipes

tornado red 16v rado, black alloys at hte back of napier uni today, I havent seen you around before.... Couldnt stop to get a better look as I was going into uni for an exam!

first things to look at are... Tyres (pressures & general condition), Rear struts, rear beam bushes