andycowuk

:shock: :shock: :shock: I thought my 8 hour drive to gti international was a long haul!!! Welcome to the forum chimo.

Agreed. I love my c...but i am sure i would REALlY LOVE a mk2 g60 i had spent similar money on..... 8)

yes.

mmmm rice pudding :-P isnt the torque measured at the wheels? the BHP figures are the ones that are subject to the rolling roads pinch of salt calculations?

how much and where do bugpac ones come from...had their bushes on the golf and had no complaints.......

all BMs have an excellent ride hieght and wheel choice optoins at the moment dont they! Nice car...I am jelous! :mrgreen:

Front 2 VR top mounts - they are the toughest of the corrado top mounts. you might want to get new nuts and bolts for the lower front struts too.....these can be quite corroded and u need to be he man to wind the nut off what seems like 3 ft of threads. The revised bolts are also thinner so you camber can be adjusted through a wider range. Rear another two bolts these ones go through the botom of the strut and into a nut on the inside of the rear beam tubing....the nut is held onto the rear beam by a small metal braket....a bolt head came off when I was taking my stock items off, so you might want to have them spare incase it happens to you...its only a couple of pounds and it stops you being car-less for a few days if they do break. You can also get new rubber top mounts for the rear. I think these are the only things worth replacing at the same time. You can wind down the spring platforms so you dont need a coil spring compressor, but you might need the C spanner to wind the platforms back up against the spring....... No idea where to get them, my Leda kit came with 2 c spanners.

I just priced slave and master cylinders......Master was around £120, Slave around £35..... I got the slave one to try......got it today......and they are now made of plastic!! how long have they been made of that?

Reggit, Hi, I havent had this problem myself, but from reading it, unfortunately I dont see anything that looks wrong. :cry: Have you tried to get a good few quotes on this? Investigate claiming of your insurance? Just out of ineterest (and without checking to see what it might look like) could you discretely smear some silicone on as a temp measure? HTH

16v head has a temp sensor housing on the flywheel side of the cylinder head, it is very common to leak from there, your leak is not THAT fast, only a litre per day.....rather than a litre every 10 miles. At that rate, the water will evaporate away from the side of the head rather than form a pool......check out for coolant residue, other water marks. Also check you expansion tank and cap are not leaking. The heat sheild will be to protect the bulk head/steering rack from the heat, not your engine, so it should have no bearing on the water problem.

I am looking for the same sort of clusters. But am waiting until inters to buy them. I have a feeling my car will look different on the Saturday to how it arrived on the Friday! Dont GSF do aftermarket chin spoilers?

I can certainly agree with that! I got nearly 49 MPG on a long run once, although I was driving like a jew!

depends who you ask, and also how far you are going to take your mods. I would expect that a abf with kr cams and k-jet management would have more toqure and therefore more power than a 9a in the same position. the difference is longer con rods. The longer con rods could be seen as a weakness if you are turboing. I know a guy who has a rally golf, had a 6a but changed to the abf for the better torque.

abf from the mk3 16v bolts straight on.

I didnt set out to buy a Corrado, actually wanted a mint 16v Mk2. Sinse my car is also my daily driver, I started to wonder how I could have a special looking golf (by that I mean a golf I REALLY like), that I use everyday. So my mind started to wander, away from VW, onto Audi, looked at various coupes but reconned they would be too lardy for me. I kind stopped looking at settled with the 16v Golf I had. Went to GTi inters last year, hoping for insperation, and came away knowing one thing for sure - I liked the sound of the G60 Corrado I had heard! I came home, and still content with the golf (it was soooo fast with the ABF), I didnt look about. About mid July, i started to get a bit itchy again. I looked at my options, 16v golf, corrado VR or G60, Vento VR. I decided that I didnt want the VR, so was looking at 16v golfs and C G60's again.....looked at a load of Golfs, all of them dissapointed me in some way, just couldnt find the right one. I looked at 1 G60 corrado with 120k on the clock, it had a dirty grey interior, faded tornado pink paint, and didnt seem that fast. This actally put me off the G60 C, so I looked at more and more golfs, and one day spotted a 81k G60 C for £1800, with no tax. I went to see it, and it was really clean inside and out, had a black interior. It had no sevice History, and no charger rebuild and the ABS light was on!! But I thought to myself............ hmm...... £1800! That left me a hoooge pile of cash to do the repairs and more. So I bought the beastie! I actually think I got a good deal. I fixed the breaks, had the charger and head rebuild a P&P and had a Full supersprint system and manifold put on, for around the same total as I could of spent on a car still needing the work! 8) I had it off the road from Aug to Dec last year, and although I was initially disappointed with it coming from the high reving 16v with the kick at 4.5k, to the smooth deliver of power fromt eh G60 was a huge change, but I have sinse realised, once rolling the corrado is probably a fair bit faster....and its still growing on me! 8)

Hi Tazkenny, welcome to the forum. A 94 car should be the 2l 16v, the codes are kr for the 1.8 and 9a for the 2.0, and can be found on the timing belt cover on the offside of the engine. It could be the cable that needs adjustd on your car, another thing to check before you accuse the syncros, is the clutch. How does the clutch pedal feel.....if its flappy at the top, and has a low bite point, then you may need to bleed it, or replace the slave cylinder if its shot. I just got one from vw for £33 for mine the other day. What gearbox oil did you use? I am not 100% sure, but i think your car will have the thin inlet tracts. This is to give the engine better poke lower down the rev range. HTH

keilder is gr8! The road from edinburgh to newkie is one of my favs...specially at that bit!

foot on clutch is a good reason, probably what I'd do too! I am certain its the switch.......i have a new one waiting to go onto my car....but no time cos of uni work just now. :( cant wait till its all over, I'm gonna have me a 100% car oriented summer!!! 8) :D :icecream: :cheers:

It more than likely is the switch, but i was thinking..... For your two red dash lights to be flashing, the ignition ciruit must be on. If you were in gear, this would be equivalent to bump starting the car. If you were looking at the flashing dash lights with no engine power, and no other electrics, there could be another problem. Does that make sense?

If it is, then thats a nasty way for it to show itself!.....mine just needs wiggled sometimes or else you cant get the starter to turn. One question tho, when you had the lights flickering, were you in neutral?

the rear ones are much easier, cos you can get away with two normal ring spanners. It'll be a breeze!

depends what tools you have available, but last time i was pushed, I used my 22mm socket, and clamped good old mole griprs round the outside of it, then put an allen key through tthe drive hole on the socket and useda spanner to keep it still, while i turned the mole grips. That make sense?

:tongue: Edit Whilst that smiley is supposed to represent me panting entusiastically like a dog, i cant help thinking the name of may give off the wrong message!!!

stevemac, I'll ask twice before asking pleading with my gf for one of those now, that looks REALLY frightening! andy

does this mean you can email it eitherl? :wink: