andycowuk

Sandy, regarding the extra kick u are looking for........ I noticed on a copy of your rr print from the 1/12/03, that you have not done anything with your ISV. You hit 0.8 bar by 3k, and it goes no higher. Unless u sort this, there is no point putting on a smaller pulley. Sorting this out alone, will give u a bit more power. HTH

Outside at the rear of the car, noise from the tail appears to be quite loud, but from the front of the car or in the car when driving, the charger is louder.

i've got one....I dont know how much difference the back box makes to the noise, as I've never replaced one without the system too! It is quiet inside, but quite loud outside at the rear of the car. its a nice fit in the rear bumper, but u will need to make sure the other rubbers are good throughout, else it will knock on it. Could maybe get a pic of it tomorrow if u like? HTH

its common on the G60, the rubber pipes on attatched to the fuel rail and fpr perish and leak. I dont know if u get the same thing on the VR but to elliminate this possibility the best thing to do will be to locate ur fuel rail and fpr, then when the engine is cold (so u can see the petrol, without it evaporating without a trace) turn ur ignition on and check the fuel rail and FPR pipes. If it is this, just cut a 1/4 inch of the end and replace the jubilee clip if required. Of coarse if any peeps with a VR give a better answer, go with their opinion!!

no...a guy in edinburgh has one, craig is his name....dont know much else about him! The shells in the rallye have got extra box sections in them and are much more rigid, i didnt realise that the ed1s and the like had the same shell till now.......interesting!

it goes into so much detail, that it is easy to see that no engine is the same as the next.....even between two of the same model of car! Like you say, it is about the principle, they are the same.

1. I sleep in the same bed as my g/f, making playboy an unpopular choice.....especially if its used as intended! :D :D 2. From what I've read of the exhaust chapter, the cast manifolds are in no way better.....the air leaving the chambers via a tubular manifold has momentum...so when the valve closes a partial vacum is formed 'behaind' the exhaust gases...which sucks out the next 'batch'. in a cast one, as said above, all cylinders acting on a space as close to the outlet ports as the manifold cause a high pressure. 3. Tubular minfolds dont need to be of the magnex type......in my mates honda civic, it has tubular manifold as standard....but is not to the magnex scale...the 4-1 joins only slightly further away from the head than the std 8v manifold does

as I recal, they had their car park on the fat part of the runway, and never used the part inside the gates....the bit where you queued to park. The club stands were on the fat part and the trade stands were on the thin taxi ways.....why dont they put the parking on the thin stretched out bit, and the action on the fat bits?? maybe this is rubbish.....but thats how i remember it!

Also....this is why the tubular manifold works better than the cast item......and why you should ditch the cast thing. This book is mental......all this comes from the 1st 3 pages of the 22 page exhaust chapter! I bought it to read in bed, but it is so technical, it dosnt make very good bed time reading!!

I decided to look at my book called Four Stroke Perfomance Tunning rather than lazily asking questions :oops: Here is a quote.... He goes on to discuss disadvantages such as extra weight and the space required for 4 primaries. so....thats that one clarified then! I have a 4-2-1 from supersprint on mine.....dont know who else does them.

Cai, can you answer me an odd question about your call (and all ed1)? The floor pan....is it the same as the rallye or is it the standard golf floor?? I wsa speaking to a guy who has a ottinger tuned g60 and he says his is the rallye floor pan....just wondered if it applied to all?

Why is that......surely the longer primaries ona 4-1 are going to give better air flow?

I bought my car with about 3 months MOT, the flexi hoses had already been replaced, but the calipers were sticky, and as a result the pads were worn and the discs warped; the ABS light was on too! It also had a blowing exhaust I do all my work myself, so TBH all I look for in the car is a good shell....everything else is easily replaced! I replaced everything except the cv joints and front wheel bearings....so it made the car II bought for £1800 come to more like £5000....but now I have a nice reliatble car.......(should I have said that...)

New cables are in order i think. about £10 each.

g-man was looking into geting a batch made. Dont know what the outcome was. Bahn Brenner do a late shape one....the exchange rate is good just now so it might be a bargan! Dont know the quality tho.

if less than a year old, take them back! Surely we should expect these things to last more than 1 year?

:wink:

these porche adaptors are £200+ from H&R, but you could do the conversion using vag parts for less. Another reason may be to do with the PCD of the vw 5 stud. The porche is 5*120, and the vw is 4 stud is 4*100, so there is 20mm to put the 4 bolts through the adaptor into the vw hub, and then the wheel bolts round the outside of the 4 countersunk bolts. IF the vw is 5*100 then at some point on the wheel the countersunk bolts will be in the way of the wheel bolts.....does that make sense?

front top mounts? or perhaps bottom ball joints.

you might want a lamda probe to give feedback to the ecu on the mixture that has been burnt...but you dont need one.

Bringing this one back from the archives - I still want to know if anyone has done this before.

Do i feel a user name change coming on? Welcome to the world of really bad fuel consumption......

i listen for things going wrong!

black g60 at white stripes concert, SECC on Sunday night, u were in the parking bay 3.

i can do you a set of KR cams to put in your ABF...... £50 delivered....