Simeon

G60s can be a real source of headaches, but it's usually something simple. You really need to get the timing checked if you've not done it properly - start with the static timing per the guide VW Rule has put up above. Dynamic timing you just need a timing light, they aren't expensive, make sure your dizzy is freed off and then set it to 6deg btdc. Have you checked wiring to the injectors, terrible for breaking down and causing havoc. What state is the wiring in generally, have you stripped it back to check connections etc?

Looks nice mate, is it up and running now?

That's good mate, I also found the hardest part was actually removing it from the servo !

Clear the codes and re run diagnostic. I agree with Dox re the pedal sensor for the ABS (and it's listed there in your fault list). Very easy to fix, there's a how-to on the Volvo forum of all places; https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=97192&page=5 Engine speed sensor fault always shows if the engine isn't running.

Great work 🙂 Good to see someone rescuing one rather than scrapping when faced with that rust

Looks fantastic

Which pulley are you talking about? The crank pulley (drives the cam belt) has a hole in the middle to put the crank bolt through and 4 tapped holes to attach the drive belt pulley / dampener (drives the 6pk belt for charger/alternator). You say you have 4 bolt holes so you must be looking at the drive belt pulley.

I've had a couple of flywheels like that, I just presumed it was a different design.. never gave me any issues

Did anyone head to UD over the weekend? I went down as a mate was debuting his Mk2 [took home Top 25, Best Engine & Sponsor's Choice so he did well] I enjoyed it this year, better balance of old and new than last time I went, but there wasn't a single Corrado indoors and I didn't see one in the outside show area either, crazy. Only one I saw was a blue VR6 pulling into the multi-storey carpark on Sunday afternoon.

Yeah I only have red on the shelf

I've always just used the threadlock I've got on the shelf, nothing fancy

It's very simple, just quite hard to explain over a forum 😅 On the left hand side of the top bolt you have the large hex with the matching teeth to the arm yeah? In which case you just have to loosen that bolt enough to be able to put a large spanner / adjustable on that hex and rotate it to move the alternator in the correct direction to tension the belt more. To get the alternator to move you also need to crack off the bolts that hold the alternator to the engine block; I can't tell you where all these are, but you should be able to find them, normally 2 or 3 in total. How far can you twist that v-belt? Is it significantly more than 90 degrees? If it's old then, as said, it's worth replacing. If you want to upgrade then you can swap parts with the later 16v engines from MK3 Golfs etc [ABF engine code] to get a more modern 6 rib-belt set up. The swap has been covered on other forums over the years, so don't know whether the info is still out there.

Ouch, quite a list ... but not one that'll be completely unfamiliar to most Corrado owners I'm sure 😅 Sounds like you're making good progress generally, hopefully we'll be able to get pics up soon now the forum has been migrated, be good to see it on the new wheels

I can't believe how long I've had this car and it's still languishing unfinished 😬 Moved house last year and lost my workshop, so had to hurriedly put the engine back in to move it [had been on a pallet mounted on the subframe sat just in front of the engine bay for about 2 years!] . It's now sat in an open ended lean-to, but my aim for 2020 is to put it back on the road 😀 This will also allow us to go down to one family car too as I can tool around in the Corrado on the odd occasion, so money saved there is money to put to the Corrado .. that's my argument to the wife anyway 😅 Will get the earlier pics sorted as Photobucket has kindly screwed them up, and update when I finally get some time on it 🙂

Get the fault codes read and then you'll know if the pedal position sensor is the problem. If it is, this how to shows how simple it is to fix. Hardest bit is removal and refitting in my experience https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=97192&page=5

Polo / Mk4 shifter housing are quite different, Polo one bolts straight in and Mk4 one can be made to fit with a little modding fairly easily. I bought the Polo housing direct from VW (plus one or two other bits you need, can't remember now but there's a thread somewhere detailing all part numbers), cost about £60 or £80 ish. Then transferred the cables over from the Mk4 one I got off a scrapper, pretty easy :)

The G60 is amazing, wish I had the cash.. and the storage.. Etc etc Only thing that bugs me is that the number plate spacing is wrong

I used Mk1 TT arms, but the later aero pin type as the early ones are hook like the factory Corrado ones. Had to chop out a little of the passenger side one and weld it back together, not difficult and resulted in excellent wipers Pics on my thread here (which I haven't updated in two years .. :lol: ) http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?95765-G60-tidy-up/page2

Lovely! Too nice to drive now of course

G60s are great, get it bought :)

That's an understatement :lol: I'm sure VW seriously regret building and selling Passats in 2015 because every single one of them had knackered brakes and steering :lol:

It is strange how they are failing to pick up in value, particularly with them being billed as being a bit of a bargain buy in the motoring press for quite a few years now. Don't seem to have the 'x' factor that is driving up Mk1/2 Golf values etc

To some people, but I personally would be prepared to pay more for (and indeed have in the past) a car that has a completely clean MOT history with matching expiry dates. Bit pedantic and not necessarily proof that it has been better cared for, but it's nice paperwork

Petty I know, but they put it in for MOT in November with the ABS light on, crap wipers and hazard lights not working ... in my book that knocks £10k off the price for giving it a crummy mot history :lol:

The 16v has a simple mechanical tensioner that is easy to adjust, but you will need to take the bottom cover off as it sits (iirc) approximately where the two covers meet. Slacken bolt, release a little tension and re torque. Have you taken the top cover off and tried to rotate the belt 90 degrees as far down on the long run as you can reach? Should be reasonably obvious if it is too tight. If there's a whine that wasn't there before they did the work, then drop it back and tell them to fix it. Incredibly easy to narrow down what is causing it as they can simply remove the aux belt to see if the noise stops.