Dox
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Everything posted by Dox
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Pics :)
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Its sounds like a fire in the making, I'd disconnect the battery and investigate further if it was mine.
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VWM VSR SP263s Stealth map 16V diff with LSD, TDi 5th and 02J tower and shifter Vento cup Speedlines 30mm drop 312s with larger master cylinder, MK4 rears and working ABS Mirrors you can actually see out of! Headlights you can see with!
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You have a short somewhere or a seized motor overloading the circuit blowing the fuse. I'd unplug the motors on that fuse Replace the fuse ignition on, what happens? Wiring into the hatch could also be broken and touching the body work? Have you done any electrical work to the car recently? - re-trace your steps, even replacing rear light bulbs can give allsorts of weird electrical gremlins if they're not correctly installed (stop / tail bulbs especially) There will be a collection of earths near the fusebox, make sure they're clean and secure too
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The gauze in the oil pump pick up is doing its job then? Needless? dent in you wallet?
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But the same swarf would be collected via the filter and disposed of several times before you remove the sump?
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An external magnet fixed to the sump would collect any swarf, but you'd never be able to clean it off without removing the sump. An old speaker would provide a magnet if you went ahead with it
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-VR6-4-x-speedline-centre-caps-brand-new-/181592468140?pt=UK_CarParts_Acc_Wheels_tyres_Trims_Car_Rims_ET&hash=item2a47c12aac
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-VR6-4-x-speedline-centre-caps-Used-/361126772433?pt=UK_CarParts_Acc_Wheels_tyres_Trims_Car_Rims_ET&hash=item5414d53ed1 Not mine
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Put a meter across the battery terminals, you're looking for at least 12.6V, now add some load, lights, HRW, heater blower, etc recheck the previous battery voltage - what do you have now?
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Lumpy idle
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If I was doing a auto to man conversion I'd look for a donor, a £500 VR6 for 6 weeks would be more trouble than its worth, however using the same car would mean its a weekend or two's job to complete the conversion as you'll have all the parts you need.
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Hotgolf is well respected for lightening / balancing VAG flywheels, cranks etc as well as gearbox rebuilds. Mines just for road use so I didn't bother with balancing the clutch.
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I think my Hotgolf one weighed in at 6KG (4KG removed) for £70 + courier one way (the £70 include return postage). Hotgolf will go lighter if you request him to do so, but I asked for road use only and left it up to him.
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http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=89169&p=1051223#post1051223
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What condition was the gear oil in when drained?
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The green late bumper is now gone, early grey rear bumper is still free to collector
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Make a phone call to stealth with the codes?
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Arrived today, many thanks :)
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The side window in the doors changed to the larger type in 1988, interiors changed too, PAS became an option then also. Big bumpers came out after August 1989, so true 90 spec will be G, H, J and very rare on a K plate. There are some old stock on G plate with small bumpers too. Run out big bumper cars also got a different interior from H plate onwards until the end of production There was a 20 year campagn model in oak green or ????? blue with small bumpers on a late E plate / early F plate There's plenty of books available, so probably best to buy one to aid your research. Rust gets the sills, the bottom of the A pillars, rear panels and rear hatches in particular. Anywhere there's been previous accident repair will most likely have some rust too. My 90 big bumper 8V was non PAS, manual windows, non central locking and 14 inch steel wheels. I should never have sold it.....
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Do storms not have consecutive chassis numbers?
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Maybe measured in Welsh pit ponies?
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The original is a fibre gasket with alloy fire rings around the cylinder bores, multi layer steel (MLS) is just that, stamped out of thin steel plate and riveted together with a few brass rivets MLS gasket http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Golf-Corrado-VR6-MLS-head-gasket-Victor-Reinz-high-compression-gasket-/121460374181?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c479a3aa5
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I used a jump lead to check spark at the plug - the other end of the jump lead is earthed on the engine block
