Dox

I can't even use the smileys here..... I.T. fickwutt, that's me Give it a go everybody

I managed it, I found it really straight forward using internet explorer, phone pics uploaded without fiddling with them.

I've seen the advert - lips sealed :)

Corrado door cards front, rear, door pockets, sspeakers 4 used black late door cards from a VR6, slight damage to the top edge of the front passenger card (most of it will be covered by the mirror triangle) Collection from Crewe Cheshire (10 mins from J16 M6) List Date: 4/4/2014 For more info, click here to view the original listing: Corrado door cards front, rear, door pockets, sspeakers -------------------------------------- SOLD -------------------------------------- Mobile friendly version: Corrado door cards front, rear, door pockets, sspeakers Go Mobile: Download the free Panjo iOS app now!

The above sender is wrong, you need a 10 X 1mm thread 2 pin 5 bar http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Pressure-5-bar-M10-X-1k-WK-Sender-Unit-replaces-VDO-warning-contact-/390746326899?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5afa4bc773

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-VDO-Instrument-dial-Gen-Part-Oil-Pressure-Gauge-0-5-Bar-80-PSI-12v-/151247796229?pt=UK_Campervan_Caravan_Accessories&hash=item2337123805 Wrong sender removed

If that's the case the higher sensor never came into play and so is untested. You could buy your own gauge (and sensor) to keep an eye on the pressure for future reference and peace of mind?

The lower pressure sensor only reads below 2200 RPM and it needs the minimum pressure to be above that stated on the side of the sensor. The higher pressure sensor only reads above 2200 RPM and needs to be above the minimum written on the sensor. There is no alarm for high or over pressure

Oil pressure needs to be above those figures otherwise the alarm will sound / light flash. What did the sensor you removed say on it?

Oil thins when hot, oil pressure falls when oil is thinned. A mechanic would put a gauge in when cold and allow the engine to warm up whilst monitoring the pressure, if its low pressure cold then it will be worse when warm. For £30 - 40 at least you'd know if the actual pressure was low. Are you a member of the rac / aa?

Get a garage to test the car oil pressure when the engine oil is hot. The cranks bearings are white metal coated (which is a very soft material), they're fed with oil via the oil pump (via oil galleries in the block and machined in crank itself), the crank actually floats on the oil, the bearings just hold the oil in place. If the engine has low pressure or poor feed to the bearings the cranks machined journals will touch the white metal on the bearings and "pick up" - the white metal deposits on the crank journals will quickly grind through what's left of the white metal coating on the bearing shells causing big ends to knock and main bearings to rumble. If you prove the oil pressure is good (indicating sensors, wiring fault or dash fault) the car can be driven with caution, if the pressure is actually low the car needs a tow home for further investigation IMO

You need to find out exactly what oil pressure the engine has with an accurate reading gauge. It could be; Engine actually has low pressure - worn out bearings etc allowing oil to leak away losing pressure Oil pick up blocked Oil pump worn Wrong oil used Sensors faulty wiring fault Dash binnacle fault

If go to a motor factors that mixes paint in a spray can they use a camera like device to scan the paint for a better paint match

The car was painted 7 years ago, no rust, but the rest of the car had micro blistering on all upper surfaces (boot, roof, bonnet), so I'd suggest a good flat back as the previous prep was suspect (just being honest). Some signs of filler at the bottom of one of them (passenger?), done well but can be seen if you know what you're looking for. Complete less looms, £50 the pair collected, couriers would destroy them

Complete less looms. I'm a long way from Exeter though

Compo centre caps - the finishing touch? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Genuine-CHROME-caps-for-COMPOMOTIVE-alloys-MO-TH2-ML-CXR-etc-/121309393304?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c3e9a7198 Great car BTW, a credit to all owners past and present

I've cut that grommet off the original hose with a Stanley knife and used it on Goodrich hoses before, simply put the cut into the U shaped bracket nearest the strut with the plastic sliding sleeve (with the makers name on it) inside the grommet acting as a bush. You could super glue the cut, but I've never bothered and if the hoses are routed correctly the grommet stays in place, but you could cable tie the grommet to the strut for good measure also.

http://www.eurospecsport.com/products/brakes/performance-brakes.htm 350 bucks..........

There was a group buy on here 5? years ago, I think they're Eurospec discs (not VAG) and are around £200 for the pair

If its got a sim and numbers stored why not call one of the contacts in there?

Are you expecting a similar sized package that maybe the seller switched names and addresses before posting? ie you have A N Others parcel and they have yours?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genuine-VW-2-8-VR6-93-98-AAA-Bare-engine-Block-Pistons-/161233588920?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item258a4552b8

Got it out of the garage, its been sorn for 2.5 years and was on policy yesterday, MOT and tax this week hopefully :) Wearing temporary wheels

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK3-GTI-VR6-REAR-CALIPER-DISC-ROTOR-UPGRADE-BIG-BRAKE-KIT-EUROSPEC-RARE-/331165440532?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d1aff9a14