Dox

Air / vacuum leak sticky idle valve Coolant temp sensor

A thread from another forum I frequent, its a 5 cylinder engine Ford Ranger 3.2 oil changes - Simple enough job with no risk - think again! 2018 onwards Ford 3.2 Rangers/Mazda BT50 have a vari drive oil pump - leave them draining more than 10mins - they won't prime - no oil pressure - bang. Only way to prime the pump if left too long is overfill by 5ltrs (plus 9.5L to fill the engine anyway) let it sit and air bleed then start it up - stop it and vac extract the extra 5ltrs and then you will be OK.

Why just Mystic blue as a Storm only colour (when you just used a current colour for the classic green)? Was the Scirocco storm also your idea?

Any updates please?

The last I read even a scrap VR6 cat was worth £150, so don't go throwing it away.

Spam reported

Phoned Audi for a CV boot for my TT, £36 plus VAT then told no longer available - I don’t know why we continue to buy their cars when they show their customers such contempt? Paid £13 for a GKN branded product from Euros

Or a cable tie

JP have a bad reputation in the Corrado community for all items not just distributors.

I'd start by checking basic timing with the camshaft cover off and sparkplugs out turn the crank bolt until cylinder number 1 piston is at the top of its stroke on the compression stroke, the cams should be opposing one another, ie \ / I'd confirm the TDC markings on the flywheel and / or crank pulley are correct by inserting something into the plug hole as I turned the crank bolt - a wooden or plastic cooking spoon is good for this as its unlikelt to damage anything should it become jammed. If that's OK you could confirm cylinder leakage with a leak down test

Its probably the hardest thing to diagnose if its only when being driven and under load? Ignition Fuel Engine / gearbox mounts Try and watch the tacho when the issue is happening to see if it drops to zero. Checking battery connection, main engine earth connections for cleanliness and security. Make sure the fuel and ecu relays are pushed all the way in / pins are clean. Wiggle the ignition key to try and replicate the fault

Do you mean surging?

Is the motor 100% dead? Its a simple job to test, only 2 connections at the motor, simply reversing the connections makes the motor change direction. Check / grease the window rollers whilst you're there and seal the door apperture plastic membrane afterward to prevent water ingress.

Mine did that before the clutch slave failed completely a month or so later. Easy job on an 02A, 2 m8 bolts and the hydraulic hose then bleed

They look rather old, even the ceramics are stained?

Cold starts running on heavy mixtures (choke in old money) and long idling doesn't really create enough heat to keep plugs clean. You must have heard the scenario of the car owned by the old guy who never revved above 1500 RPM, only used the car to supermarket or church leading to rough running, then the new owner uses it normally and after a few week of normal use the car has a new lease of life? In a similar vain the ubiquitous Italian tune? Petrol on long runs cleans off contaminents off the back of the inlet valves too, build up here traps vapours and creates droplets instead. DPFs in modern diesels need heat from a fast run to burn soot trapped inside the DPF to turn it to ash

I assume the car's not road legat ATM? Idling isn't good for an engine, much better on a long run at light throttle and under load - my VR6 hates starting and idling after having the battery reconnected

Is the fuse fed from the alarm? You need to find which circuit blows the fuse, windows (L or R?), locking (then L or R, boot or pump?) or mirrors - unlikely unless you adjusted them on your last journey?

Sorted?

How old is the fuel? Fuel filter?

Use super that only has 5% ethanol, more power and better economy with a mix that was suitable yesterday and more suitable ongoing. If your car starts stuttering on low fuel levels on tight corners suspect the fuel pump mounts on early VR6s with the caramel coloured (non white) swirl pots - Pierberg pumps?

If you press the window buttons can you hear the relays click? The door looms earth each side as they enter the car shell, remove the kick panels and check for connection issues

The fuse box has a locking mechanism to stop the plugs on the rear from popping off. Make sure its locked in place - if its not check for loose plugs on the rear of the fusebox

If it has auto closure alarm check the fuses for the alarm system

For how long? The last car vw fitted with a cable throttle must be nearly 20 years old? I had a golf vr6 in 1999, 3 years old and 46k, the revs used to hang (fall too slowly between gear changes) on that one, took it to AmD in Oxford who ran a diagnostic and declared the tb may be faulty. I also had an Octavia 1.8t DBW that did similar (BAM engined tt is slightly better, but still hangs a little). I’d prefer the odd stall to laboured gear changes or faster changes that make you look like a novice driver. I quite like the crudeness of OBD1 and cable throttles over DBW, maybe I’m just odd?