Dox

Tick the "remember me" box Christ, sad times.

Are you ticking the keep me logged in box? Where the hell have you been?

Apple products are all made in China, not everything from there is bad

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F300434239884

Can you not cut out the damaged piece and use a compression fitting of some sort? Local garage will have something?

Personally I'd buy the one with the best bodywork and change the interior for your preference. Front wings, front fogs and indicators on late cars rare items, equally as hard to find as a VGC leather interior and more sought after.

I think so too

Find a quiet road and stand on the brake pedal to see if you can lock the brakes. If they lock, unplug one of the front sensors clipped to the underbonnet strut tops and see if the system goes into fault - dash light on.

I wouldn't trust a generic code reader on these cars for non engine stuff. Presuming the ABS light hasn't been doctored with some sort of timer chip, the light is working correctly, the system has no faults? Does the ABS actually work? Does the pedal pulse evenly 3-4 times on start up as the car self tests? If you suspect the light has been frigged unplug one of the sensors and see if the light still goes out. If the system up is working the more you fiddle the more likely you are to break this delicate set up...……...

I suppose they could be historic codes from a previous time? Clear them and see if they return?

The time to worry is when it gives you a sun tan...……………...

If you’re ever around Cheshire I’ll scan it with VCDS for you If the light stays off when driving the system is all good

So it passed on the foot brake, failed on the handbrake? I had the above and removed the disks and used a flap disc in an angle grinder to roughen the surface, then adjusted the cables to give similar drag on both sides on 2 or 3 clicks (4/5 locked them solid after). Mine has OE callipers and had replacement disks and pads 2-3K prior to the fail

The midlands breakfast club meets at the British Ironworks Centre Oswestry SY11 2JH tomorrow at 9AM

Many parts are now obsolete from the main dealers, many of the replacement parts aren't the same quality and will fail much sooner than the one the car was built with. Change the minimum and reuse what you can would be my advice

Wasn't Chris Gaskels old car up for £25K 2 - 3 years ago?

I’d have thought your parts were from a reputable source (rather than a king of bling)and should be ok.

The material type is usually stamped on the head of the bolt, just google the code

15 August 1996

Stainless is a steel alloy with a minimum of 10.5% chromium according to Wikipedia. Galv steel should be fine, stainless might be fine - I work in a dairy and have seen white powdery stuff when we pull stainless bolts passing through non stainless metals, but we pressure wash and use foams and disinfectants for cleaning.

It was an inlet manifold dress up kit that someone linked to another forum, someone else then commented the stainless bolts when removed pulled the threads out of the alloy heads, I'd not heard of it before, or since come to that. Someone here used to sell the stainless bolt kits, maybe someone who bought one could comment?

I've heard of stainless bolts pulling the threads out of alloy heads when being removed? Could be an urban myth, internet or FB rumour?

OE, for comparison

Maybe if they're a bit too bright for your taste you could put a semi matt film over them? They do match the headlamp pretty well in that pic?

Mine were £90 for a pair?