CazzaVR

What was the rattle?

Nice one- they do sound good with the front silencer removed 8)

You really need to get things in perspective :lol:

Check all the breather/vac hoses for fitment/splits etc. Look underneath them etc- be thorough! If you've been mucking around with the airbox, you could easily have knocked a vac hose loose. Had a very strange idle on my first 16v- turned out one of the hoses to the ISV had a tiny split underneath.

It's a 16v...

I'm sure they'll be OK. They charged me that on the basis that the downpipe *could* have been a complete barsteward to remove, as the bolts snap sometimes etc. However, as mine was so easy they should've adjusted the price accordingly. To be honest, it was the way he responded to me that annoyed me as much as the the rip off charges. It was kind of 'Who the hell are you, to question my pricing?'

Had a little falling out with them the other week- won't be using them again :( Shame, cos they do a very good job! They basically charged me £119 to replace the flexi on the vRS... it took them 40 minutes. The new flexi section would've cost around £20 (tops), so that means they charged me £150 per hour labour :shock: When I questioned this, the manager was very evasive and wouldnt tell me the hourly rate. I then sent him a very polite email and he sent a VERY snotty, rude response! Not impressed at all :nono: That said, they'll do a good job on your car- the technicians there are superb. Shame about the management.

Just relocate it! It will fit horizontally under the MAF/air intake. Just cable tie it in place. 5 minute job.

Just discovered Ochre- how did I miss this? Awesome electronica :dorky: 8)

I did this once and it was wrong bulbs (single filament instead of double). Just pop into Halfords- they always have a bulb application guide next to the bulbs ;)

:)

Carb cleaner is perfect. Leave to soak and then put your thumbs over the holes and give it a good shake. Let the carb cleaner drain out and then give it another load of carb cleaner to get any dirt remnants out. As easypops said, make sure the flap opens smoothly. Give it a quick spray with some PTFE lube such as 3 in 1. Prob worth cleaning up the electrical plug with some contact cleaner/emery board.

ISV?

Hi Michael- glad you're plesed with the Bora- good cars and that engine has plenty of poke. Remap? Go on, take the Storm out for a spin... ;)

It's looking superb, Chris! Little things like black badges make all the difference. Managed to carefully prize the VR badge of my debadged grille in the end- so now the valver is badgeless at the front 8)

Pipercross do a 'Roar Box' which replaces the whole bottom of the airbox, and Stroeve do a cone kit with a special plate that attaches underneath the airbox lid. Both are expensive and not worth the bother imho. Just get a K & N panel filter and remove the snorkel from the airbox.

VAGCOM can calculate BHP- think it's block 120. Should work with a VR, but not totally sure :? Shame they don't make a liquid gauge for the C :(

Go for it- you're falling behind- I'm on number 8 now :lol:

Nope :(

Hey Jon! :wave: Gonna get the Plum completed before you leave? :nuts: How long are you out there for?

Here you go- I've got the same prob and I recently got one (not fitted it yet- too scared :lol:). Can't remember off-hand where I got it from- I try to find out for you :) *EDIT* Got it from simplybearings.co.uk

Washed and clayed in the last couple of days. Had a go with the rotary polisher, got rid of the finer swirls but will need a more abrasive pad/polish combo to remove the light surface scratches. Ran out of time last night and it's raining now :(

Mate, the Beru ones from VWSpares are the same, but much cheaper ;)

It sure is. Let the car idle, and adjust the screw so the idle speed is around 950rpm ;)

I managed to unbolt mine. The metal is really thin- tin snips/pliers should be enough.