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oooo cheeky things ahead mic!!??

hi m8 difficult to say, more info would help..... what RMS output has the head unit per channel? what RMS rating are the door speakers & tweeters & are they a 'component' setup? have you any rear speakers & what RMS rating? what RMS rating is your amp in each mode? the above info will allow you to decide if the head unit is powerful enough to run the door speakers (& rears if reqd) OR if the speakers are high enough rated to cope with being run off the amp TBH unless you're running crazy kit id probably say option 1 is more than suffice m8 EG in mine I have sony head unit with 4*52watt RMS which I use to power my front door infinity kappa's, 50w RMS each, & infinity kappa 6*9's in the rear, 110w RMS each. I then have a small sub running off an amp regarding wiring, it depends on your amp / sub location (IE both in the same area). for ease my amp is screwed to my sub box, which doesn't need securing as its so damn heavy you will then need RCA cables to go from head unit to amp & also a 'remote' wire from head unit to amp, this is what turns the amp on when the head unit turns on power the amp via a fused power lead to the battery & find a nice earth for the amp in the boot (you can get an amp fitting kit from Halfords etc which includes chunky power & earth leads etc) then connect the sub leads to the amp & bass is your aunty in terms of setup it will depend on what filters you have & if you are using passive or active crossovers? have you ever done a complete sub install? (sorry if that is a naïve question Hasan) hopefully that will make some kind of sense of it all EDIT: sorry if I have repeated anything, I didn't read the thread in full

glad you scratched your itch m8 :)

^^^^ what he said :D

nice little intro, welcome aboard :)

thanks for the offer Kip I have to wait for my pending mechanic bills to arrive & cleared before I spend on anything else

happy to help m8 :) im not sure if KUR2Y does or not but I was planning on trying to see if he is still active on here & drop him a PM as I need another loom for my valver if I hear off him I will let you know

oh dear wayne - hope you got home ok & its not an expensive fix

ive said it before but im sure this is why KUR2Y always used 3 relays in the looms he produced, it was for failover on the looms he made if a single relay fails then you still retain one side of your lights - kind of a 'get home' thing if they fail whilst out on the road if im correct in my thinking he put one relay in for each side for dipped & normal beams & then a single one to do the high beam for both sides

have you changed the relays? normally when an uprated loom is involved no headlights is due to a failed relay they are only a couple £ each, id change them just to be sure I had to do this very task not so long ago edit: or, if the OEM plugs & loom has not been cut etc, disconnect the uprated loom & reconnect the factory loom plugs & check the lights if they don't work then you know it is not the uprated loom

ha ha good one Tan lol :)

ha ha I picked up on that 'not so smoothed' bumper too Kev - looks frickin awful!!!!!

no probs. I think it has something to do with the 'open circuit fuel mapping' oir whatever the correct term is. I recall vince saying that you can get running problems when the battery is on its last legs as the ECU loses the fuelling info once the car is turned off if the battery hasn't enough juice in it also - I know that my VR in particular does really not like running for just a few seconds. IE if you start it & then turn off after a very short time. if done a couple of times successively my word the engine runs rough as a bag of nails whilst the ECU sort itself out. this last happened when it went to the body shop a few years ago & when I collected it I got half a mile down the road & thought 'WTF they have killed my car'. I stopped & turned off, left it for a few seconds & then restarted & all was well. I had forgotten to tell the body shop to not press accelerator when starting & to let it run for a few minutes each time I want to post a video to show the sound when I start mine as ive always really liked it....it really does do a 'chicka-chicka, vroom' lol

now that is a great piece of advice & very pragmatic

hi m8 are you depressing the accelerator as you turn the ignition key? I ask as the manual says never to do such. I very rarely read manuals but for the VR I did & that part stuck in my mind lol reason being is that is can mess up the fueling & make it run not very well. it then takes a few minutes for the ECU to sort it out my VR has always started very well & virtually always goes 'tick, tick vroom' however the gf's storm can very often turn over quite a few times before starting once it has warmed up hers always starts but it is odd the way they start differently im not sure if that info helps but thought worth a mention :)

could the old trick of 'using a long screw driver or similar to press on various parts of the engine & put your ear on the other end' possibly help trace where the noise is emanating from? if not, jim, get yourself down stealth & let vince listen I understand how disappointed you must be, as well as sad & angry, as I went through similar emotions when things were not right after id also spent so much on the VR. vince put everything right & a little more :)

hello m8 no idea with a G60 sorry but hopefully someone on here will be able to :)

sorry to say this jim but it doesn't sound or act like the typical tappets noise the noise on your video doesn't sound like my VR used to before I had new tappets during my head rebuild :( could you possibly take it to stealth & ask vince just to have a listen? im sure he wouldn't charge you for a quick nose around & he would have heard many a poorly VR I would imagine

excellent to hear you fixed it & how :)

ahh that makes sense lol

hmmm no that doesn't sound right they kind of look like an old scart tv socket but that is in my VR

I think they are all in the same place - lift the plastic surround on your gear lever & it is under there

oh dear Jim I feel for you in your position :( was there any mention of the issue persisting by those who rebuilt it? if the cylinders were in such a state that you were getting piston slap before the work was done then should it not have been advised that a re-honing would not stop the noise

ha ha I had forgotten I posted the above lol not only did I find it, I brought it back & it got its first MOT with my new ownership on Tuesday this week :D

welcome get some pictures up ;)