g0ldf1ng3r

K tidy - i will drop him an email to see if i can get clarification & post back if/when i get a reply

that would be helpful it has been a while since i looked at Zak's fitting notes - be good if he could is there a picture of the yellow connector on the notes where it is mentioned? i think i recall one & it looking exactly like the rado dim dip conenctor

worth a shot sam i am unsure as to exactly why it is done but i am sure Zak would not have put it in his fitting instructions if it wasnt needed

hi m8 no you should have disconnected the dim dip resistor as per Zak's notes i simply unplugged the 2 halves & then electrical taped them up & tucked them away & have done so with all 3 of Zak's looms i have fitted

with the uprated looms i have seen, & own, you have to disconnect the dim dip resistor (yellow connector by the battery) as this has an impact on the lights when the loom is fitted

apologies for the suggestion if it is not wanted but with those part prices, for both sides with the vat is a few pennies from £500 i was able to get HiSpec 4 pots for not too much more than that & i can certainly vouch for their braking being leagues ahead in terms of brake power over OE just a thought ;)

Chris - i have definitely recently seen a for sale add for a set of RX's in 5*100 & very cheap IIRC i recall them as i pondered buying them so as to steal the faces & turn the set of 4*100's on the valver into 5*100 for the VR - cant for the life of me think where though might be here but could have been dub fiction wheel emporium on fb just had a quick search on the bay & there are a set for £140 buy it now but cant quite see if they are genuine bolts or not - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Golf-Mk3-Anniversary-BBS-RX2-16-inch-7j-5-x-100-alloy-wheels-set-of-4-/252876021385?hash=item3ae095de89:g:jYQAAOSwBOtY9bDI

i pre-soaked the ones on mine with releasing fluid stuff & then used the correct torx driver, taking it very easy on the initial turn to 'crack' each one gently ;) i think i also got my mechanic to re-tap the threads on the wheels prior to rebuilding good hunting m8

Chris am i right that BBS dont sell these as spares? lots of non genuine BBS bolts avail but IIRC can get new genuine ones if so, might be worth trawling the bay for a single wheel i was lucky when i refurb'd my RX2's as i managed to get all the bolts out without an issue & only had 1 'spinner' which wouldnt quite torque up on the rebuild. fortunately threadlock helped ;)

whoa air!! lol fortunately i had slowed but not quite enough

nice - just watch out for humped backed bridges with the tire wall edge where it is (depending on how much gap from top of tire to bottom of wing of course) after putting on the 10mm spacers to let my 4 pots fit under the speedline i got caught out the other day with the redistribution of the weight on the downside & had a slight rub love the wheels & red stickers!!!

indeed it is i didnt think about the out tire wall being poked out further prior to ordering the brakes - i just wanted big brakes which went under the 15" speedline lol from what i could see it may have been a little of both no damage to the wing edge or liner but a very slight score line around the circumference of the outer tire edge at the top of the tire (if you get what i mean) it has only happened once & as i mentioned it was due to the weight shift on the downward of the hump - i dont think it would happen in normal circumstances but thought it would be worth a mention no more stomach churning hops over humped bridges for me lol

lovely wheels i noticed a slight issue with my VR the other day having put 10mm spacers on the front to accommodate the 4 pots - such that with the tire now further out when i went a tiny bit too quick over a hump bridge i got a slight rub on the outer tire wall on the compression the 2 finger gap i had set the KW's at is now reduced on the outer wall as the wing drops down ive driven over it more slowly the following days without issue but am considering raising the front a little maybe

ha ha ha!!!

lol that is the gist i got before i brought mine too im sure i had read somewhere that the 263's were better suited for the 12v VR6 than the 268's

so the time that the extra lift is open does have an impact on power output, i thought it might

i thought running in process was only vital when a full rebuild had taken place? i asked vince about such during my head rebuild & he said no need when just adding cams & remap

i think that would be hard to quote as it would depend on other engine specs & the remap that was applied we may be able to compare 263 vs 268 on here if someone with 268's comments on their new power output after a remap with the new cams i know the 263's on my VR, with BMC, gave me pretty much spot on 10% gain over standard with the stealth map. i think it would get a little more now due to better breathing with the Longlife SS

i need to stop looking at this!!

ha ha potentially quite a lot then as the street/race SP268s have a lift of 0.449" which is only 0.001" more than the 263's which are stated as street

ok, good interpreting Lee so, the schimmel ones gives a little higher lift - thus potentially giving a little more power i wonder if the duration of lift would also have an impact - i would imagine so as the valve would be open higher for longer

from http://vr6parts.com/onlinestore/index.php/volkswagen/vr6/12-valve/cylinder-head-valvetrain-parts/12v-vr6-camshaft-set-263-street.html For both boost and naturally aspirated applications, great street can with excellent idle and good all around gains in horsepower and torque. Chilled hardened billets. Can be used with OEM valve Springs Duration 263 Duration @ .050” - 222°/221° Lift- .448” Lobe Center- 115° though i dont really know how to read those stats lol

i would imagine a cam is a cam really though some will be made of more expensive & lighter weight materials it is the lobe profile that will be the difference maker, eg schimmel do 263's or 268's with the latter being a slightly higher lift profile than the former do kent give any info as to the amount of lift the cams give?

Nice, a mk1 GTE :) the SR nova's were great werent they! back then i lusted after putting a mk2 GTE engine in the Nova - those 3 litre turbo's they would squeeze in there looked so tasty lol though i killed the car i still want to get a repro plate made with its reg H489LOE for the workshop wall

blimey that is a blast from the past i had some Kent cams in my H reg Nova 1.4 SR when i was 21 god damn that car was fun!! dropped at the front, Kent cams, K&N, nice exhaust (cant recall the make), 3 spokes & holy crap it was like a go kart. fastest thing i have ever managed to get through the S bends at the local cloverleaf & would destroy much much faster cars through them pity i wrote it off in patchy fog on way to work one morning, id love to still have it now as for the VR part - i went with Schimmel 263's in mine with the addition of a BMC & a stealth remap