h100vw

Get that sorted for the meeting on monday night. You can rip up the car park at the pub!! Gavin

Rods are G60 only. 037 198 401A Gavin

Henny, 'ETKA' says its the same. 026 105 101E. I have a brand new one in my garage along with a set of rods. I got them from a VW mechanic who said they were for a G60. Which ETKA confirmed for me. I think I told you the tale, at the meeting earlier this month. Good scope for fleecing someone though. "Yeah only G60 this crank mate, it would have been loads cheaper if it was an 8V one". I wonder how many have unknowingly paid too much at a breakers for common or garden parts? :roll: Same with the G60 dissy, same as a digifant Golf. Later Gavin

You've got it Chris. Flick the key on and off a coupke of times just for the hell of it. See if it is any better. Do you dip the throttle a touch as you turn the key? Not all cars will start when you just turn the key. Gavin

Henny, I hate to pull you up, as your info is usually 100%. The crank on a G60 is the same as a Rallye. It is also the same as the (16V)KR, PL, (8V)PB and PF motors. Basically it is fitted to most 1800 engines. The 1H Rallye head has different sized holes for the headbolts. Consequently, the block is different to the PG, as well. Gavin

There is more than likely going to be fuel at the feed to the injector anyway. To see if it is working you need to undo the allen bolts and fie it into a jar. They only trigger for a few seconds which is governed by the thermotimeswitch. IMHO the 5th injector does nowt much really. I had it disconnected for years on my 2 litre mk1 and that never failed to start in all weathers When you turn the key and get the ign lights on, can you hear the pump prime? I often flick the key a couple of times on and off. That will build up the pressure in the lines if you have a dribbley injector. Gavin

Dave, Double sided tape sticks the relays to the side of a clean battery pretty good. If you drop the grille out you will be able to get the loom thru easy too. Use the tywraps I sent to prevent it rubbing on anything. Gavin

Have you driven your car with the MFA in the check mode? If it never comes off 1000 you have a monster boost leak somewhere. What do you mean by perforated intercooler in pour first post?????? If it has holes in it then the charger will struggle/never be able to pressurise it. Gavin

Dude, Not wishing to spoil your day but finding pieces of Apex strip in your silcencer box would normally be classed as bad news. For that to happen there would need to be some excessive wear in the charger. By all means break it open and have a look. I have rebuilt a couple my self and it's not rocket science. Having the right tools and some engineering experience is far more important. If you have any doubt about your ability, have a professional look at it. Go to the G60 part of http://www.vwvortex.com. There is a rebuilder thread stuck at the top. Make your choice and send it away. KK do a tune up/inspection deal which may be up your street. Gavin EDIT. Not trying to do you out of a sale, Skye. :)

Like G60 says, she needs a tune up. You need to check the vac hose to the ECU. It should be a metre long and coinnected to the top outlet on the throttle body. The smell of petrol will be due to some bad input to the ECU. It is dumping fuel to prevent damage to the engine. It is however, not concerned with the damage to your wallet, in money terms!! My money is on the vac hose being too short or on the wrong outlet. Gavin

The feed comes off the side of the head where one of the pressure senders is. The return goes into the block under the charger. It looks like a core plug with a stub fitted in it. Gavin

Best thing to do is read the diy section of http://www.snstuning.com. Basiscally you set the timing and then keep advancing it until the pinking starts. Then back it off a bit. As all cars are different, there isn't a set figure for the best performance. It is a trial and error thing. Another factor is the weather, pinking is going to occur early(less advance) on a hot summers day over a cold winters one. Gavin

I'd say the slave cylinder needs replacing, cheap and easy job. No loss of fluid really. Maximum 30 minute job with the right tools. As a short term fix you could try bleeding the slave cylinder. Chances are the fluid in there, is the same as when the car was built. Brake fluid absorbs water and this can cause corrosion in all ferrous based brake components. The main reason for replacing brake fluid on a bi-annual basis. The water can severely affect the fluids ability to handle heat. The water boils before the fluid and gives you a dead, spongy pedal after you have used the brakes hard a couple of times. I have replaced a couple of slave cylinders on Corrados and Passats in the last year. Could also be the linkages at the gearbox need a bit of a lube. I had shifting problems with my Golf earlier this year. Some spray grease fixed it in the time it took to lift the bonnet. Mine were all brown and rusty looking. Gavin

Chris anything K reg onwards should be catted up. They are not that time consuming to swap if you have the facilities. I'd say about 30mins would do it. You must have the lambda probe fitted into the by pass pipe or suffer the consumption!!!!! Honestly, it is not worth the bother, unless your cat is knacked. Sometimes they break up and block the silencers in the rest of the system. If that happens I'd just knock whats left out of the cat and put it back on. I have to get my K plate Passat tested next week. If they don't say anything I'll let you know. Gavin

If it is touching the plastic, maybe you can heat it with a hot air stripper and hold it out of the way til it cools. If it is on metalwork, how about adjusting it with a soft mallet? Gavin

Not sure on the VW name. Off to bed now in case Santa doesn't bother with our house. For the MOT they should check that the light comes on and goes off after a few seconds. Taking the bulb out isn't an option at a vigilant MOT station. They have a chart that tells them the procedure for most cars with ABS. Luckily mine works ok until you set off up the road. The brake rollers don't go fast enough for it to fail!! Been thru 2 tests as it is. I'll get you the name off ETKA in the next coupla days. Merry Christmas to all Gavin

Yeah thats what I was hinting at. Gavin

Details Chris, what are your brakes like? Do they have assistance, if they do, then the pump itself is ok. You are looking at the valve thingumajig, with all the pipes on. The brakes have similarities with a MK3 Golf more than a LHD C or Golf. Merry Christmas Gavin

No trouble dude. Got ETKA on your Chistmas list?? Seasons Greetings Gavin

Sounds more like the aux water pump, mate.251 965 561B Gavin

021 121 117A is the thermostat housing. I dont have a VR but it looks like there are two hoses on the expansion tank, the other goes to the aux water pump. Gavin

etka didn't recognise that number, it doesn't look like a vag number to me. Got more info for me to go on? Part number of one of the pipes going to it? Got ETKA running for you Gavin

I got my 205/50 Toyos from them and they were £185 delivered. Need to know a man with a fitting machine then as well. I have had Michelins from Costco in the past. They were excellent in the wet and I finally finshed off the fronts on a track day. I rate them at least as good as A539s. Just missed getting 4 195s for 150 quid. They had a deal on earlier in the autumn. I am sure you can find a way into Costco or someone who'll help you out. You just need to pay cash to avoid any questions. Gavin

Does your G60 have an oil cooler? My Golf runs in the white except in traffic in this weather. The oil gets to about 80. I have had to cover up half the radiator and intercooler to get some heat inside the car. The oil on G60s does get hot in traffic and they tend to run pretty warm most of the time. Providing it comes down, once you are on the move I wouldn't 'sweat it'. Gavin

Does the battery light come on with the ign and then go out when you start the car?? If the light does go out, in theory the output of the alternator is higher than that of the battery and should therefore be charging it. The current may be low due to high resistance/bad connections. Heavy loads like big lights, heated rear windows and multiple short journeys can deplete a battery. Any garage should be able to prove an alternator is working. The voltage at the battery should be 12Vish and with the engine running it should rise to 13+. If it doesn't then something is amiss. It may just need a brush/diode pack. The brushes wear out and if they become too short then the output of the alternator can be severly limited. The pack is held on the side of the alternator with a couple of screws. It can easily be removed with the alternator in situ. The brushes a sprung loaded and should be a minimum of 5mm in length. New ones are about a cm. GSF sell the packs pretty cheap. It could just be a duff battery a well. The voltage check should highlight any probs there. Regards Gavin